Tips on storing your F-Body for the winter
10-01-2009, 03:57 PM
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tips on storing your F-Body for the winter I don't have a garage of my own so what I do is store the car either in a friends garage or in a storage facility.
I was told not to start it, take the battery out, throw some fuel stabilizer in it and call it a day. I was also told by a gentlemen that stores his old cars to put an additional 10psi of air pressure in all of the tires and throw on some styrofoam underneath the tires too.
I was told not to start it, take the battery out, throw some fuel stabilizer in it and call it a day. I was also told by a gentlemen that stores his old cars to put an additional 10psi of air pressure in all of the tires and throw on some styrofoam underneath the tires too.
10-01-2009, 08:35 PM
#4
I'm not sure where the sticky is but I'm doing the same thing this winter. But I'm ganna put it up on blocks, take the rims and battery out, put fuel stablizer in the tank, change the oil and fuel filter, then wrap it in plastic and seal it. Maine winters are harsh though...
Trending Topics
10-01-2009, 09:17 PM
#9
I'm not sure where the sticky is but I'm doing the same thing this winter. But I'm ganna put it up on blocks, take the rims and battery out, put fuel stablizer in the tank, change the oil and fuel filter, then wrap it in plastic and seal it. Maine winters are harsh though...
10-01-2009, 09:42 PM
#10
It would be best to put it up on jack stands to avoid flat spots. My camaro sat a long time before I bought it and it had some bad flat spots and would throw you all over the road. Just seems like it would be better not to risk it.
Then again my Trans Am sat 10 years and has tires from 1979 and doesn't have flat spots or anything.
Then again my Trans Am sat 10 years and has tires from 1979 and doesn't have flat spots or anything.
10-02-2009, 01:18 AM
#12
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holmes County (thats right Amish Country), OHIO
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Ok I would like to argue a few of the previous points made.
1. Jacking it up- Have you ever seen an old car collectors garage with all the car sitting on blocks? No because its not needed. Just over inflate the tires if your that worried about flat spots. And if they happen to flat spot, which I highly doubt they will, ten miles of driving will fix it. Also a "hanging" suspension on a car for five months is really hard on springs and shocks. They are meant to sit compressed.
2. Taking the battery out- False. I say leave it it. Having the battery connected actually leaves a small charge on all the wires which will keep them working and not let the corrode or dry rot as easy. Leave it on. Mine didn't die last winter and it sat for three months without me starting it.
Now just other stuff you should know.
1. Full tank of gas is highly important. Again Fill it all the way up! With say a half tank of gas in to store it what will happen is the temp of the garage will go up and down. This will form condensation and know you have water in your gas tank. Shouldn't be a whole lot but I don't like the idea.
2. Clean it. This is just important. Inside and out. If a mouse smells the french fry you left beside the seat back in august he will want it and he will get it. Ok that is exaggerated but having dirt inside that car can leave it kinda musty sometimes. A can of some kind of moisture absorber inside that car wouldn't hurt it either.
3. Starting it. Ok now this one is on how you feel. If you start it let it sit and warm up 100% and get everything hot. I like to start it because I feel that same as your gas tank condensation could from else where in your motor. so by getting it as hot as possible it can dry it out. However others have the same argument the other way. When you start it it becomes hot then cools and moisture forms. So if you are going to start it do it more then once a month. Also I just like listening to my car
Last year I started it the first and the last month of storage and it sat dormant the middle three months. This one is in how you feel.
4. Change the oil. Fresh oil is less likely to sludge up and break down. I would want that in the bottom of my oil pan then start it next spring and suck it through the oil pump. Change the oil. It makes sense. Also winter is a good time to change other fluids if you have a warm garage to do it. Like trans, rear end, clutch, power steering, brake, radiator flush, and any other fluid your car uses. Its up to you how much you want to do. It seems come winter I can't keep my hands off the car.
Ok I'm sure there is other stuff but its two in the morning here so I am going to bed. If I think of more I'll let you know. Happy storing this year. Just mod it while it sits now then you don't have down time next summer.
1. Jacking it up- Have you ever seen an old car collectors garage with all the car sitting on blocks? No because its not needed. Just over inflate the tires if your that worried about flat spots. And if they happen to flat spot, which I highly doubt they will, ten miles of driving will fix it. Also a "hanging" suspension on a car for five months is really hard on springs and shocks. They are meant to sit compressed.
2. Taking the battery out- False. I say leave it it. Having the battery connected actually leaves a small charge on all the wires which will keep them working and not let the corrode or dry rot as easy. Leave it on. Mine didn't die last winter and it sat for three months without me starting it.
Now just other stuff you should know.
1. Full tank of gas is highly important. Again Fill it all the way up! With say a half tank of gas in to store it what will happen is the temp of the garage will go up and down. This will form condensation and know you have water in your gas tank. Shouldn't be a whole lot but I don't like the idea.
2. Clean it. This is just important. Inside and out. If a mouse smells the french fry you left beside the seat back in august he will want it and he will get it. Ok that is exaggerated but having dirt inside that car can leave it kinda musty sometimes. A can of some kind of moisture absorber inside that car wouldn't hurt it either.
3. Starting it. Ok now this one is on how you feel. If you start it let it sit and warm up 100% and get everything hot. I like to start it because I feel that same as your gas tank condensation could from else where in your motor. so by getting it as hot as possible it can dry it out. However others have the same argument the other way. When you start it it becomes hot then cools and moisture forms. So if you are going to start it do it more then once a month. Also I just like listening to my car
Last year I started it the first and the last month of storage and it sat dormant the middle three months. This one is in how you feel.4. Change the oil. Fresh oil is less likely to sludge up and break down. I would want that in the bottom of my oil pan then start it next spring and suck it through the oil pump. Change the oil. It makes sense. Also winter is a good time to change other fluids if you have a warm garage to do it. Like trans, rear end, clutch, power steering, brake, radiator flush, and any other fluid your car uses. Its up to you how much you want to do. It seems come winter I can't keep my hands off the car.
Ok I'm sure there is other stuff but its two in the morning here so I am going to bed. If I think of more I'll let you know. Happy storing this year. Just mod it while it sits now then you don't have down time next summer.
10-02-2009, 08:47 AM
#13
Ok I would like to argue a few of the previous points made...
1. Jacking it up- Have you ever seen an old car collectors garage with all the car sitting on blocks? No because its not needed. Just over inflate the tires if your that worried about flat spots. And if they happen to flat spot, which I highly doubt they will, ten miles of driving will fix it. Also a "hanging" suspension on a car for five months is really hard on springs and shocks. They are meant to sit compressed..
1. Jacking it up- Have you ever seen an old car collectors garage with all the car sitting on blocks? No because its not needed. Just over inflate the tires if your that worried about flat spots. And if they happen to flat spot, which I highly doubt they will, ten miles of driving will fix it. Also a "hanging" suspension on a car for five months is really hard on springs and shocks. They are meant to sit compressed..
Agreed if your down south. But when you see 1-4 feet of snow at a time. Leaving it on the tires doesn't have to do with flat spots. It has to do with blowing out the suspension. Snow weighs ALOT and when you car is covered in FEET of it for months. Trust me, hanging suspension is better then a blown suspension... Remember, shocks sit in a box for months, years even before being compressed on a car. So once again, blocks are the answer... Not jack stands where your car can tip over.
Also, it rains after it snows sometimes. That weighs down the car even more after the tempature drops to below zero and everything freezes.
10-02-2009, 09:14 AM
#14
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fenton, MI
Posts: 857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Correct me if I'm wrong, but when shocks are static, either compressed, or released, there is no difference in pressure. The pressure occurs while the shock is moving. Hence dampening. Oh, and most shocks I've installed come in a box with the shock in full compression to minimize storage area. I've also rebuilt shocks too. Most people raise up a car or snowmobile or bike to keep some wt. off the springs and help to prolong the life of the springs.
10-03-2009, 10:18 AM
#16
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im washing the car, throwing some irish spring soap on the floor just incase there are mice in the storage facility(they HATE the smell of this stuff) Throwing some fuel stabilizer, removing the battery and last but not least placing some pink insulation foam board underneath each tire to avoid flat spots.
10-03-2009, 06:27 PM
#17
On The Tree
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: N.E. PA
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10-03-2009, 11:07 PM
#18
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holmes County (thats right Amish Country), OHIO
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Agreed if your down south. But when you see 1-4 feet of snow at a time. Leaving it on the tires doesn't have to do with flat spots. It has to do with blowing out the suspension. Snow weighs ALOT and when you car is covered in FEET of it for months. Trust me, hanging suspension is better then a blown suspension... Remember, shocks sit in a box for months, years even before being compressed on a car. So once again, blocks are the answer... Not jack stands where your car can tip over.
Also, it rains after it snows sometimes. That weighs down the car even more after the tempature drops to below zero and everything freezes.
Also, it rains after it snows sometimes. That weighs down the car even more after the tempature drops to below zero and everything freezes.
Now your telling me you allow feet so snow to sit on your car all winter? Just go brush it off.
Besides that doesn't matter this guy is parking it in a garage so... Snow factor is no factor
10-05-2009, 02:59 AM
#20
Three years ago I put my car away for the winter. Five months later when I got it out I noticed a weird rattle when you closed the passenger door so I pulled the panel off to investigate. A mouse must have found a way into my door panel, because when I took it off about 50 kernels of corn fell out. Gotta love Nebraska Winters!
Not a tip, but I felt like sharing that.
Not a tip, but I felt like sharing that.