get a safe low 11/high 10 sec car, boost or na?
04-09-2010, 01:30 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: phila,pa
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
get a safe low 11/high 10 sec car, boost or na? i dont need specifics yet, but i would like some opinions. Which is the smarter. most cost effective, and safe way to make 450-500whp and have a solid 10 sec to low 11 seccar? which set up would last longer and be cheaper..a turbo/sc set up or a na setup on a new ls6 engine? WITHOUT SPRAY!
04-09-2010, 02:29 PM
#3
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Stockbridge, MI
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are Heads/cam/intake cars with sticky tires on here, easily hitting those numbers with autos. I would think it would be alot cheaper to hit low 11's that way than FI. Now if you wanted to hit 9's, FI is the way to go. Either way, you are going to need some drive train mods to be able to withstand the power.
TSP has some nice setups with ported GM heads, and their cams that make 450 rwhp. I intend to go this way eventually, but i'm building up my drivetrain before hand, cause i hate breaking ****.
TSP has some nice setups with ported GM heads, and their cams that make 450 rwhp. I intend to go this way eventually, but i'm building up my drivetrain before hand, cause i hate breaking ****.
04-09-2010, 02:35 PM
#5
are you an m6 or a4? makes a big difference.
N/A
making 450 rwhp wont be hard. with a well thought out setup, you can do that on ls6 intake and (ported) heads. the higher you wanna go, the more you spend. a FAST becomes nessecary here, then the big TB to go with it, maybe porting on both. youll probably want to swtich to AFR/TFS or the PRC(not ls6 or 5.3) big cc castings. maybe you want porting/millign on these as well? building a vavletrain to hold all of this with confidence is where more money comes in, as well as the bottom end.
FORCED INDUCTION
i would give this MULTIPLE LONG lookovers. https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...induction.html
basically, its saying you be made of cash and have even more on deck to spend. 500rwhp isnt hard at all on boost, but then you need to start thinking of building the motor(top and bottom end), trans, converter/clutch, rear will become an issue if launching hard, getting a lot of fuel to that thirsty combo, suspension and tires to get the power to the ground. all of that REALLY adds up quick. on top of those major things, its the little **** that will eat you apart. ive looked VERY hard into FI and convinced myself i could afford it, but then i kept rethinking it and i just would not have enough to keep pouring into the build to get where i wanted.
with all that said, why are you so opposed to nitrous? when used correctly, it is perfectly safe and TONS cheaper than either of the other 2 routes. you could add a cam, and make up the difference in spray. 500rwhp becomes EASILY doable.
you should really pick which one you want, a dyno # or a track time. dyno #s are for bench racing, if you want to run a number at the track, build the car for that number and deal with whatever numbers come out of it. would you be pissed to only make 440rwhp but run an 11.00? autos have it alot easier, but definitely not impossible for a manual.
N/A
making 450 rwhp wont be hard. with a well thought out setup, you can do that on ls6 intake and (ported) heads. the higher you wanna go, the more you spend. a FAST becomes nessecary here, then the big TB to go with it, maybe porting on both. youll probably want to swtich to AFR/TFS or the PRC(not ls6 or 5.3) big cc castings. maybe you want porting/millign on these as well? building a vavletrain to hold all of this with confidence is where more money comes in, as well as the bottom end.
FORCED INDUCTION
i would give this MULTIPLE LONG lookovers. https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...induction.html
basically, its saying you be made of cash and have even more on deck to spend. 500rwhp isnt hard at all on boost, but then you need to start thinking of building the motor(top and bottom end), trans, converter/clutch, rear will become an issue if launching hard, getting a lot of fuel to that thirsty combo, suspension and tires to get the power to the ground. all of that REALLY adds up quick. on top of those major things, its the little **** that will eat you apart. ive looked VERY hard into FI and convinced myself i could afford it, but then i kept rethinking it and i just would not have enough to keep pouring into the build to get where i wanted.
with all that said, why are you so opposed to nitrous? when used correctly, it is perfectly safe and TONS cheaper than either of the other 2 routes. you could add a cam, and make up the difference in spray. 500rwhp becomes EASILY doable.
you should really pick which one you want, a dyno # or a track time. dyno #s are for bench racing, if you want to run a number at the track, build the car for that number and deal with whatever numbers come out of it. would you be pissed to only make 440rwhp but run an 11.00? autos have it alot easier, but definitely not impossible for a manual.
Trending Topics
04-09-2010, 03:56 PM
#8
stall, cam, heads, spray... and save a few bucks for when the rear end blows up.
ok.. "WITHOUT SPRAY" and WITH A LOT OF MONEY, i'd go with a front mount turbo and forged internals setup.
ok.. "WITHOUT SPRAY" and WITH A LOT OF MONEY, i'd go with a front mount turbo and forged internals setup.
04-11-2010, 08:27 AM
#9
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: phila,pa
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The car is a m6. im not completly opposed to nitrous, im not to knowledgable and it seems i only hear bad things in the long run. i would rather prefer cam only for now and hopefully get into the 11s. it is a daily driver for now, its just it only has 2000 miles on it so i want to make sure whatever route i go, it lasts to its full potential.
04-11-2010, 12:34 PM
#10
NKAWTG...N
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 4,760
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FI will always cost more.
Why no spray? That would definitely be the quickest, cheapest, and safest route.
A bullet proof 10 sec motor car isn't gonna be cheap either.
Why no spray? That would definitely be the quickest, cheapest, and safest route.
A bullet proof 10 sec motor car isn't gonna be cheap either.
04-11-2010, 01:31 PM
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wood River, IL
Posts: 2,788
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The easiest was is usually the most expensive. If you want power all the time(cause spray runs out) and you want a pretty reliable setup, just get the normal bolt ons and buy a procharger. you can install all of it in one day and tuned the next and be running 500rwhp at around 7psi. Very simple.
N/A requires you to get inside that motor and sometimes depending on the parts you buy can be more expensive that the FI setup I just mentioned.
Oh by the way, do not forget about your drivetrain! clutch, tranny, rear end, etc.
N/A requires you to get inside that motor and sometimes depending on the parts you buy can be more expensive that the FI setup I just mentioned.
Oh by the way, do not forget about your drivetrain! clutch, tranny, rear end, etc.
04-11-2010, 04:54 PM
#12
The easiest was is usually the most expensive. If you want power all the time(cause spray runs out) and you want a pretty reliable setup, just get the normal bolt ons and buy a procharger. you can install all of it in one day and tuned the next and be running 500rwhp at around 7psi. Very simple.
N/A requires you to get inside that motor and sometimes depending on the parts you buy can be more expensive that the FI setup I just mentioned.
Oh by the way, do not forget about your drivetrain! clutch, tranny, rear end, etc.
N/A requires you to get inside that motor and sometimes depending on the parts you buy can be more expensive that the FI setup I just mentioned.
Oh by the way, do not forget about your drivetrain! clutch, tranny, rear end, etc.
The procharger setup will be able to make more power, but not for the same price.
I have priced it... I decided to stay NA.
04-14-2010, 09:05 AM
#13
I've built my car from the rearend forward. Next upgrade will be the motor. I'm in the 11's and hoping with the new tune on monday and some time at the track will be in the 10's this year. It cost money either way so just do it right the first time.
04-20-2010, 09:46 PM
#15
i will tell u this..
if i could do it all over again, with the money ive spent on mods.. heads/cam/intake/nitrous, clutches.. yada, yada
i would have thrown a turbo on the car and called it a day. Easy 500 rwhp all day long.
theres a local guy out here whose put 7XXrwhp down with a stock LS6
if i could do it all over again, with the money ive spent on mods.. heads/cam/intake/nitrous, clutches.. yada, yada
i would have thrown a turbo on the car and called it a day. Easy 500 rwhp all day long.
theres a local guy out here whose put 7XXrwhp down with a stock LS6
04-26-2010, 12:53 PM
#16
Staging Lane
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From what i have been seeing basically if you do a all motor setup you'll be building the motor and if you go F.I. you will be still building the motor just a different way and the paying for the F.I.. (that is if you do it right) So if all you want is 500 rwhp i would stay N/A. If you want closer to 700 rwhp i would lean more to F.I.
