What is Next? My time slips are weak.
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What is Next? My time slips are weak.
Want some opinions here.......
I ran the car a few months ago at the Track. It was mid-michigan motorplex in April on a 55 degree day. track prep was "good" according to my mustang friend with stock 2005 GT. He ran a 13.847. My timeslip was as follows.......
R/T .598
60' 2.113
330 5.616
1/8 8.409
mph 89.21
1000 10.819
1/4 12.888
mph 106.08
That was my best run of 5 total runs. Granted, it was my first time ever at the track as well. (I know how people get hooked, It was a BLAST!)
Now, I was really looking for a better time slip!
Mods= CAI, K/N filter, ported/descreened MAF, LS6 intake, Taylor 8mm wires, 232/238 595/601 1+2 Cam, Pacesetter longtubes, 3" ORY no cats, Cut-out was open, 22 psi 60% tread street tires 245/45/17, 3.23 rear end, and I took my subs, **** out of the car for the trip.
I know i need a stall conv. and plan to do a cooler and 4000 stall this winter. I also plan to get some 275/45/17 tires.
What should I do next?
Seriously is this a good time slip or **** poor?
I ran the car a few months ago at the Track. It was mid-michigan motorplex in April on a 55 degree day. track prep was "good" according to my mustang friend with stock 2005 GT. He ran a 13.847. My timeslip was as follows.......
R/T .598
60' 2.113
330 5.616
1/8 8.409
mph 89.21
1000 10.819
1/4 12.888
mph 106.08
That was my best run of 5 total runs. Granted, it was my first time ever at the track as well. (I know how people get hooked, It was a BLAST!)
Now, I was really looking for a better time slip!
Mods= CAI, K/N filter, ported/descreened MAF, LS6 intake, Taylor 8mm wires, 232/238 595/601 1+2 Cam, Pacesetter longtubes, 3" ORY no cats, Cut-out was open, 22 psi 60% tread street tires 245/45/17, 3.23 rear end, and I took my subs, **** out of the car for the trip.
I know i need a stall conv. and plan to do a cooler and 4000 stall this winter. I also plan to get some 275/45/17 tires.
What should I do next?
Seriously is this a good time slip or **** poor?
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Well that's a big cam to be running on a stock stall, so that may have something to do with it. How's the current tune on the car, seem to drive ok, or has it been tuned? Something seems off since when my car was bolt-ons only I was trapping 110 mph. Also how was the weather/DA when you ran?
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It has been dyno tuned yes... it made 370 HP @ 6300 rpm and 355 torque at 4700 rpm.
Weather was mostly cloudy but dry. it was 2 in the afternoonish.
1/4 tank of gas 93 octane. Im not sure what else.
Weather was mostly cloudy but dry. it was 2 in the afternoonish.
1/4 tank of gas 93 octane. Im not sure what else.
#6
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Changing the gears will help your 60ft if you can grip. Here are some mods you may want to consider including the stall and cooler you are talking about getting.
Driveline
$70 Tranny cooler (will extend the life of your tranny)
$167 Deep Tranny pan (will extend the life of your tranny)
$700 Stall (4000rpm)
$480 Junk Yard 4th Gen Wheels/ Hoosier DR's (255's)
$374 Gears with Installation Kit (3.73 for Daily Driver, 4.10 for weekend/ track car)
$1,791 Sub Total
I didn't see that you've had your throttle body port and polished. If you have some money to throw around, for $65 you could squeeze out a couple more hp.
At this point it looks like chopping down your 60ft will pull your ET down. A good general rule of thumb is that for every tenth you can take off your 60ft, you will reduce your ET by 2 tenths. A good example is my brother's Trans Am. He ran a 13.9 with a 2.3 60ft. We then bolted on drag radials and he pulled a 13.5 with a 2.1 60ft. This went exactly with the theory. Here is a list of suspension mods to help with grip after the stall...
Suspension
$130 UMI panhard rod (on car adjustable)
$300 UMI Sub frame connectors 3 point (Bolt in)
$180 UMI Lower control arms (on car adjustable)
$90 UMI Lower Control arm relocation brackets (bolt in)
$290 UMI torque arm (on car adjustable) w/ installation kit
$600 Rear QA1 Double adjustable drag shocks with stock rear springs
$470 Front QA1 drag springs (275lbs) and Front adjustable Shocks
$2,060 Sub Total
A majority for stalled auto guys that I see run around 1.6 60ft. If you pulled that I'd see you at 11.9-12.1
Driveline
$70 Tranny cooler (will extend the life of your tranny)
$167 Deep Tranny pan (will extend the life of your tranny)
$700 Stall (4000rpm)
$480 Junk Yard 4th Gen Wheels/ Hoosier DR's (255's)
$374 Gears with Installation Kit (3.73 for Daily Driver, 4.10 for weekend/ track car)
$1,791 Sub Total
I didn't see that you've had your throttle body port and polished. If you have some money to throw around, for $65 you could squeeze out a couple more hp.
At this point it looks like chopping down your 60ft will pull your ET down. A good general rule of thumb is that for every tenth you can take off your 60ft, you will reduce your ET by 2 tenths. A good example is my brother's Trans Am. He ran a 13.9 with a 2.3 60ft. We then bolted on drag radials and he pulled a 13.5 with a 2.1 60ft. This went exactly with the theory. Here is a list of suspension mods to help with grip after the stall...
Suspension
$130 UMI panhard rod (on car adjustable)
$300 UMI Sub frame connectors 3 point (Bolt in)
$180 UMI Lower control arms (on car adjustable)
$90 UMI Lower Control arm relocation brackets (bolt in)
$290 UMI torque arm (on car adjustable) w/ installation kit
$600 Rear QA1 Double adjustable drag shocks with stock rear springs
$470 Front QA1 drag springs (275lbs) and Front adjustable Shocks
$2,060 Sub Total
A majority for stalled auto guys that I see run around 1.6 60ft. If you pulled that I'd see you at 11.9-12.1
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^ He gave you a good list. You need a stall and some suspension at the very very least. Your MPH is definately lower than it should be. I picked up several MPH and a whole second or so from just a stall
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#8
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I'm running a bone stock motor (99) with only a SSRA, lid, and handheld tune. With the 3.73's and converter (2800), cooler, and shift kit, I'm almost as fast as you. 12.94 105. LCA's, Panhard, SLP frame connectors. The converter and gears woke my car up something fierce. It had 2.74's.
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Theblueknight..... Thanks for that list! I think you nailed exactly what i need (besides the money to do it). That and maybe a 9" after my current rear end blows out.
BTW I watched your video on the suspension install. Thanks for giving ls1tech the time/energy to answer our questions.
BTW I watched your video on the suspension install. Thanks for giving ls1tech the time/energy to answer our questions.
Last edited by transdamn; 08-22-2010 at 09:12 PM.
#10
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Theblueknight..... Thanks for that list! I think you nailed exactly what i need (besides the money to do it). That and maybe a 9" after my current rear end blows out.
BTW I watched your video on the suspension install. Thanks for giving ls1tech the time/energy to answer our questions.
BTW I watched your video on the suspension install. Thanks for giving ls1tech the time/energy to answer our questions.
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89 mph in the 1/8th with a 106 1/4th mile trap is not right at all. Is the car slipping on the 2-3? How good is the tune because that thing is failing hard on the top end.
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I did 12.30's@109 on 2.73s through an ls1 intake. My mods were a 3800 stall, LTs and a cutout, DR's, Eibach prokit and comp. engineering adjustable shocks'. You dont NEED the gears to run better, but with the cam, Im sure they would help him a ton
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Tune I am not sure. Im reading the dyno sheet. Mustang Dyno.
Maximum power 367.5 @ 6356 rpm/141.9 mph
with WCF 373.9
Maximum Torque 348.8 @ 4720 RPM/105.7 MPH
with WCF 354.7
Car only had a little wheelspin through the 1/4. It was hard to tell though because I had the cut-out open and it was loud.
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You have a cammed car that peaks at 6300+rpm and your trans is shifting at 5800rpm...That's a huge problem. Either get a tune or if you have one a new tuner if he won't fix it. If the shift points are wrong I wonder what else is skrewed up in your tune.
You have 3.23 gears which is only 1 step off of 3.42 gears which is what most DD cars consider a perfect automatic gear. The other most common choice a sane person would go for an auto DD would be 3.73 which IMO still isn't worth the cost and effort from 3.23s.
My car with the old cammed 350 sbc went from 2.56 to 3.08 to 3.42 gears, felt better on the street but showed no gains at the track. Luckily I was gearing down for driveability (not lugging the motor on the hills up here in the Ozarks) instead of "performance" or I would have been pissed.
Last edited by thunderstruck507; 08-24-2010 at 08:26 AM.