I'am fed up with my camaro! HELP!
#1
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Every time i turn around something is wrong with my car, ever since i bought it back in august. It's a 98, first there was the broken push rod, then the exhaust leak, now that i just blew my whole paycheck to get my exhaust welded now it backfires like no tomorrow it shakes really bad the oil pressure gauge is going NUTS its stalling on me. i dont know what to do, I want to sell it but at the same time i don't want to because it's my first car and i just love it to death but im so broke i just cant afford to get it looked at or fixed.
i just dont know what to do anymore
any suggestions?
i just dont know what to do anymore
any suggestions?
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Ok, first step is to not panic.
Now, lets get started with the basics.
- Is the car stock? If not, what sort of mods does it have (specifically, engine and exhaust related).
- Is the SES light flashing? If there is a serious engine misfire like you've described, the light should, at the very least, be on. If it's really bad, the light will be flashing.
How long ago did this happen? What was suspected to be the cause for this issue (did you miss a shift, mechanically over-rev, etc.)? Were all the other pushrods inspected at the same time?
Did anyone do a compression test (or better yet, a leakdown test) after this issue?
Give more details on this. What/where was the leak? What sort of welding was done? Anything near the front O2 sensors?
The oil pressure is probably erratic because engine speed is unstable and surging with the misfires.
Well, without yet knowing the answers to my questions above, all I can suggest at this point is a quick inspection of the spark plugs wires. Make sure they are seated, and that you can't see arcing near the boots.
It would be nice if you had access to an OBD scanner, to read whatever codes are being triggered.
There are several things that could be causing this issue, from burned/broken/damaged wiring and/or sensor failure, to additional bent/broken pushrods and/or bent valves. Hopefully you can provide more info to narrow things down.
I don't think that's an option right at this moment, since few people will want to buy it with the current problem. Best thing to do right now is focus on figuring out what the root of this issue is.
Now, lets get started with the basics.
- Is the car stock? If not, what sort of mods does it have (specifically, engine and exhaust related).
- Is the SES light flashing? If there is a serious engine misfire like you've described, the light should, at the very least, be on. If it's really bad, the light will be flashing.
How long ago did this happen? What was suspected to be the cause for this issue (did you miss a shift, mechanically over-rev, etc.)? Were all the other pushrods inspected at the same time?
Did anyone do a compression test (or better yet, a leakdown test) after this issue?
Give more details on this. What/where was the leak? What sort of welding was done? Anything near the front O2 sensors?
Well, without yet knowing the answers to my questions above, all I can suggest at this point is a quick inspection of the spark plugs wires. Make sure they are seated, and that you can't see arcing near the boots.
It would be nice if you had access to an OBD scanner, to read whatever codes are being triggered.
There are several things that could be causing this issue, from burned/broken/damaged wiring and/or sensor failure, to additional bent/broken pushrods and/or bent valves. Hopefully you can provide more info to narrow things down.
I don't think that's an option right at this moment, since few people will want to buy it with the current problem. Best thing to do right now is focus on figuring out what the root of this issue is.
#7
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It is nice to see such strong support / advice from those of you that have been around for a while. Don't get too frustrated there Crisp, I remember and will never forget what Rusty Wallace once said " Sometimes you have to slow down to go faster. "
Good Luck man
Good Luck man
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#8
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Ok, first step is to not panic.
Now, lets get started with the basics.
- Is the car stock? If not, what sort of mods does it have (specifically, engine and exhaust related).
- Is the SES light flashing? If there is a serious engine misfire like you've described, the light should, at the very least, be on. If it's really bad, the light will be flashing.
How long ago did this happen? What was suspected to be the cause for this issue (did you miss a shift, mechanically over-rev, etc.)? Were all the other pushrods inspected at the same time?
Did anyone do a compression test (or better yet, a leakdown test) after this issue?
Give more details on this. What/where was the leak? What sort of welding was done? Anything near the front O2 sensors?
The oil pressure is probably erratic because engine speed is unstable and surging with the misfires.
Well, without yet knowing the answers to my questions above, all I can suggest at this point is a quick inspection of the spark plugs wires. Make sure they are seated, and that you can't see arcing near the boots.
It would be nice if you had access to an OBD scanner, to read whatever codes are being triggered.
There are several things that could be causing this issue, from burned/broken/damaged wiring and/or sensor failure, to additional bent/broken pushrods and/or bent valves. Hopefully you can provide more info to narrow things down.
I don't think that's an option right at this moment, since few people will want to buy it with the current problem. Best thing to do right now is focus on figuring out what the root of this issue is.
Now, lets get started with the basics.
- Is the car stock? If not, what sort of mods does it have (specifically, engine and exhaust related).
- Is the SES light flashing? If there is a serious engine misfire like you've described, the light should, at the very least, be on. If it's really bad, the light will be flashing.
How long ago did this happen? What was suspected to be the cause for this issue (did you miss a shift, mechanically over-rev, etc.)? Were all the other pushrods inspected at the same time?
Did anyone do a compression test (or better yet, a leakdown test) after this issue?
Give more details on this. What/where was the leak? What sort of welding was done? Anything near the front O2 sensors?
The oil pressure is probably erratic because engine speed is unstable and surging with the misfires.
Well, without yet knowing the answers to my questions above, all I can suggest at this point is a quick inspection of the spark plugs wires. Make sure they are seated, and that you can't see arcing near the boots.
It would be nice if you had access to an OBD scanner, to read whatever codes are being triggered.
There are several things that could be causing this issue, from burned/broken/damaged wiring and/or sensor failure, to additional bent/broken pushrods and/or bent valves. Hopefully you can provide more info to narrow things down.
I don't think that's an option right at this moment, since few people will want to buy it with the current problem. Best thing to do right now is focus on figuring out what the root of this issue is.
- the car has pacesetter longtubes and a tsp catted y pipe with the stock cat back i have right now
- yes the light is flashing.
- i only over reved once when i bought the car, i bought it in august and i broke the push rod in sept.
- no compression test or leak down was done.
- the leak was on my old y pipe to i pipe weld, i dont think the weld was done very well (i got a muffler put on when i bought the car due to it not having one.) and no it wasnt near the front o2's
the rear o2's arent on the car ATM because theres no slots to screw them in so im gonna try and get some dummy o2's soon.
the car is also slower than an 80's honda civic and it stalls quite a bit.
Im going tomorrow to get it checked out by a GM mechanic
i appreciate all the help im getting, i was just so pissed off earlier i freaked out because ive been getting nothing but **** from this car
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- Spark plug wires. Make sure none are burnt/crumbling or touching the headers. Make sure (in the darkest possible place, like at night) that you don't see any sparks arcing from the wires/boots.
- Check clearance of the wiring harness that runs along the passenger side strut tower. There is a bundle of wires that runs up the strut tower, very close to the header tubes. I have seen instances were these wires have made contact with header tubes. There are wires in this harness that are critical to proper PCM operation, and if burnt, will cause problems.
Then you definitely have a very serious misfire, and with a flashing light you should most certainly have an active DTC for a specific cylinder (a P0301 thru P0308, in addition to a P0300 random multiple misfire). If you can get it hooked up to a scanner, you can use these codes to help pinpoint which cylinder(s) are the primary issue (P0301 = Cyl #1, P0302 = Cyl #2, and so on).
Have you heard any ticking from the valvetrain, possibily having gotten louder over time?
In that case, I'm sure he'll hook up a scanner and get the DTC info I mentioned above. Again, I don't know how many miles you've put on the car since the over-rev incident before this new problem began, but if all other causes are ruled out then a leakdown test (for bent valves) would be in order.
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#12
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Knowing that it has headers, I would closely inspect two things:
- Spark plug wires. Make sure none are burnt/crumbling or touching the headers. Make sure (in the darkest possible place, like at night) that you don't see any sparks arcing from the wires/boots.
- Check clearance of the wiring harness that runs along the passenger side strut tower. There is a bundle of wires that runs up the strut tower, very close to the header tubes. I have seen instances were these wires have made contact with header tubes. There are wires in this harness that are critical to proper PCM operation, and if burnt, will cause problems.
Then you definitely have a very serious misfire, and with a flashing light you should most certainly have an active DTC for a specific cylinder (a P0301 thru P0308, in addition to a P0300 random multiple misfire). If you can get it hooked up to a scanner, you can use these codes to help pinpoint which cylinder(s) are the primary issue (P0301 = Cyl #1, P0302 = Cyl #2, and so on).
Well, this was quite a while ago, but I don't know how often you drive the car. It's possible that other damage was done during the over-rev, besides just the one push rod you found. Did you inspect/have them all inspected? Others may have been slightly bent, and gotten worse over time.
Have you heard any ticking from the valvetrain, possibily having gotten louder over time?
In that case, I'm sure he'll hook up a scanner and get the DTC info I mentioned above. Again, I don't know how many miles you've put on the car since the over-rev incident before this new problem began, but if all other causes are ruled out then a leakdown test (for bent valves) would be in order.
It's understandable. But these cars are all 9-13 years old, so things are going to happen from time to time. Good luck with the mechanic tomorrow.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
- Spark plug wires. Make sure none are burnt/crumbling or touching the headers. Make sure (in the darkest possible place, like at night) that you don't see any sparks arcing from the wires/boots.
- Check clearance of the wiring harness that runs along the passenger side strut tower. There is a bundle of wires that runs up the strut tower, very close to the header tubes. I have seen instances were these wires have made contact with header tubes. There are wires in this harness that are critical to proper PCM operation, and if burnt, will cause problems.
Then you definitely have a very serious misfire, and with a flashing light you should most certainly have an active DTC for a specific cylinder (a P0301 thru P0308, in addition to a P0300 random multiple misfire). If you can get it hooked up to a scanner, you can use these codes to help pinpoint which cylinder(s) are the primary issue (P0301 = Cyl #1, P0302 = Cyl #2, and so on).
Well, this was quite a while ago, but I don't know how often you drive the car. It's possible that other damage was done during the over-rev, besides just the one push rod you found. Did you inspect/have them all inspected? Others may have been slightly bent, and gotten worse over time.
Have you heard any ticking from the valvetrain, possibily having gotten louder over time?
In that case, I'm sure he'll hook up a scanner and get the DTC info I mentioned above. Again, I don't know how many miles you've put on the car since the over-rev incident before this new problem began, but if all other causes are ruled out then a leakdown test (for bent valves) would be in order.
It's understandable. But these cars are all 9-13 years old, so things are going to happen from time to time. Good luck with the mechanic tomorrow.
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Use the fixing advice from the others. Take your time, and try to enjoy doing the work. It's part of hotrodding. Problems and work is what separates the hotrodder from the regular person that drives a newer underpowered POS. Take pride in doing work that others are unable or unwilling to do. It shows in the car you drive. That's why we drive 'em. Gotta try to keep the attitude positive. It can be difficult. I've thrown some wrenches, and kicked some oil cans (yep cans). Cool off, relax, remember it's supposed to be a fun hobby. If it was easy, it wouldn't be an accomplishment.
#14
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i just got home from work and popped my hood and IMMEDIATELY noticed the paint on my driver side header is ALREADY chipping off but the pass. side is fine, could this be a clue to what might be going on? i also started it up and header (yet again) another knock on the drivers side.
any ideas?
any ideas?
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Yes. Everything I listed above. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
As for the paint issue, the misfires are dumping raw fuel into the exhaust. If there is enough fuel and heat, you can have ignition in the header tube. The excessive heat from these explosions could certainly burn paint off.
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As for the paint issue, the misfires are dumping raw fuel into the exhaust. If there is enough fuel and heat, you can have ignition in the header tube. The excessive heat from these explosions could certainly burn paint off.
#16
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right on, well im waiting for my ol' lady to get off work so we can go take my car to the shop and get it checked out hopefully ill know more by the end of the day and hopefully have it fixed
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i just got home from work and popped my hood and IMMEDIATELY noticed the paint on my driver side header is ALREADY chipping off but the pass. side is fine, could this be a clue to what might be going on? i also started it up and header (yet again) another knock on the drivers side.
any ideas?
any ideas?
Did this happen immediately after the Y-pipe was fixed?
I recently had a plugged cat on my Truck. It was running very rough and misfiring all over the place. A plugged exhaust can cause all sorts of issues.
#18
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the car has brand new headers and y pipe, the only exhaust component that is stock is the cat back.
but ill get the misfire checked out, i had to help my dad move some stuff so i didnt have time to get it checked out today so hopefully this monday or tuesday
but ill get the misfire checked out, i had to help my dad move some stuff so i didnt have time to get it checked out today so hopefully this monday or tuesday
#19
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These guys are saying to check it out yourself. If you want it done right, figure out the right way to do it and do it. You can use a scanner at anyparts store for free. Guess and check before you just blow money on labor.
#20
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There is local sponsor on this forum that dose good work (VASPEED) -(located off Dams Neck off Princess Ann) if you get fed up or can't figure it out you might want give them a call. Any how I would offer my help since we live in same area but I am about to move in couple of days. Good luck and keep us posted