Eagle564

I had a 95' Z/28 that I had sold about a year ago, bought a cherokee to get into the world of wheeling. Everyday I miss that machine. But it is time for me to return to my love of V8's. SOO my question is something you guys probably hear relatively often, is the difference between the 98-00 years and the 01 to 02 years substantial? I know they both have the LS1 motors which I can't wait to have (The LT1 wasn't enough for me although it was fun), but do things like the EGR removal for the late years and the LS6 intake make a big difference? Enough to wait for one of the later years to pop up? Im looking for an SS, 6-speed and t-tops, or a WS6 Trans Am with the same options. In my area it's relatively slim pickings for 4th gens in good shape, but there is one 99' SS M6 with some mods to it thats very clean http://www.whmotors.net/chevrolet1.html , just wondering if its worth pullin the trigger on or waiting for a late model.

Thanks for any help guys and I can't wait to get back to my love of the 4th gen f-bodies!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I currently have a '98 and an '02 (I've also had a '99 and '00), and have owned both for many years, so I can answer this question from personal and honest experience.

There is no reason to "hold out" for an '01-'02 at this point. Nice, low mileage examples of any year LS1 4th gen are not so easily found as they were years ago. Whatever your budget is, put as much money as possible towards the best condition and lowest mileage example you can find. This is far more important, and will yield a much better ownership experience, than shooting for any particular model year alone. One or two owner cars are also preferred, since they usually come with more maintenance records and a better history of care (the more expensive the car was when purchased by it's current owner, the more likely they were to keep it well maintained over the years).

The actual power difference between the years is minimal, equalling about a ~10hp difference at most - an amount that could easily be lost if the engine has lived a hard life or has a ton of miles on it (as compared to an earlier example).

If you plan to do a serious build, you might find the '99+ PCM to be more desireable. For average street/strip or daily driver builds, or stock/bolt on cars, this PCM difference isn't a huge deal and can easily be handled by any decent LS1 tuner.

There are several little differences between the years, some positive and some negative for early AND later models, but most are minor or can be changed as part of the bolt-on process. Overall, the hardest thing to do is to improve the condition of a neglected or worn out car, which is why it's most imporant to find the nicest one you can.

That's my advice, FWIW.

roninsonic

iTrader: (3)

Things that I remember off the top of my head-

98: perimeter bolt heads, different valve cover's with different coil mounts, different fuel tank, different ECU

01-02: facory with LS6 intake, bigger cam (believe it's an LQ9 cam, might have been the LQ4, don't remember), chance of having an LS6 block, EGR deleted...

Hope this helps

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

You're right about the '01-'02 having an LQ4/9 cam, but it's actually smaller than the '98-'00 cam, not bigger. Here are the exact specs:

Stock 98-00 cam:

Duration@.050 198.86 intake 209.25 exhaust
Lift .498 intake .497 exhausts
LSA 119.45

Stock 01-02 cam:

Duration@.050 196.37 intake 208.72 exhaust
Lift .464 intake .479 exhausts
LSA 115.92

The slight power gain of the '01-'02 engines comes from the LS6 intake, marginally better flowing stock heads (241s - starting on some very late '00s), and improved exhaust manifolds (starting in '00). All of that only equals about ~10hp or so.

Eagle564

That's one of the best and most thought out responses I've ever received from a forum before so I thank you. Thats good advice, ill focus on finding a good clean low mileage one. I plan on makin it a street/strip toy, maybe 450-500hp by the time I'm done with it.

And thanks everyone else for the advice and responses. Hopefully next time I'm here ill have a new toy

LS1rob00

iTrader: (9)

00+ Camaro's also have steering wheel controls. 01+ T/A's had the Speedline wheels, 01+ SS's had the option for 10 spokes instead of just ZR1's. 98-99's have EGR only, 00's have AIR and EGR, 01+ only have EGR (Moot point if you're doing bolt-on's).

RPM WS6 makes a good point, but to be honest and having owned both as well I would shoot for an 01-02 if possible. The heads/intake mani are enough of a difference for me, and having a newer car (even if it's the same model) has always been more appealing to me.

Having said that the most important thing is definitely finding a good condition and properly maintained car, obviously the lower the mileage the better.

Now if you're planning to do H/C/I down the road it doesn't matter as much, probably still stay away from 98 cars if possible (kind of just a mental block at this point for me lol).

black79transam

Maybe I'm biased because I have a 98 but I would buy a 98 because you won't have to deal with the potential for bubbling sail panels and cracked door panels

NC01TA

RPM WS6 has indeed said it all and you are smart to listen and ask here.
I'll just add my 2c since I've owned F-bodies for over 17 years now. I agree completely. If I was looking for a new ride I would get the best possible example I could afford from any of the 1998 - 2002 offerings.
Good luck with your search.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I'll continue to reiterate that at this point it's purely about buying the cleanest car available no matter the year. The only thing I would have any trepidation about is a '98 car solely due to the ECM. If I wanted a car to keep stock or mildly stock then I'd not care; however, it's not impossible to overcome even when modding (just not as "easy"). With that said, for the right price I'd not pass on a '98...

Anyway, the minor differences between the years are so easy to overcome especially when modding. Performance-wise, they're all the same. LS6 intake on the 01/02 is nice and all, but that a LS6 or other aftermarket intake is available in the mid-100's doesn't make the newer car worth any more to me.

Perimeter bolt valve covers on the '98's are no biggy because that can be remedied when you do ported (or aftermarket) heads. Same with AIR & EGR throughout the years -- just yanks right out. It's also arguable that '98's have a better limited slip (Auburn vs. Torsen 99-02). Also, if you never ever plan to do internals, 98-00 has the better cam as explained.

Lastly, while the 01/02 has upgraded clutch hydraulics, most cars are at the point of requiring new clutches anyway, so you're going to replace that stuff no matter what year you end up with.

Here's the subjective part: do you like the radio buttons on the steering wheel or not? If you don't care, then again, no reason to pick a newer car just because it's newer (especially when modding).

Again, condition should be number one priority, then miles, and then whatever subjective things you care about (color, transmission, etc).

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Glad you found it helpful. Here's a bit more clarification on the subject, since some incorrect information was posted:

This is only for the WS6 cars, not base Trans Ams.

10-spokes (silver painted) became the standard SS wheel starting in 2000, not '01. Chrome 10-spokes and chrome ZR1s were SLP options all the way through 2002.

'98-'00 have EGR and AIR (though the AIR tube is not present on the induction lid for the '98-'99 - but they still do in fact have AIR). '01-'02 have only AIR.

Frankly the 241 heads are only a marginal improvement at best, in stock form. This marginal difference is due to the improved casting process, but that goes away as soon as you start talking about ported heads (which it sounds like the OP would be doing, based on his performance goals). There is no difference in performance potential between 806/853/241 once ported. The LS6 intake is a nice piece, but that can easily be added to any '98-00.

I definitely would not avoid the '98. In fact, it's my first choice year mainly for this reason:

As long as you get a '98 built prior to 05/98, you won't have this issue. To me, this makes the later years a much bigger hassle to deal with and therefore less desireable. It's a lot of work to replace that panel, and very costly to get the only aftermarket option available, unless you want to deal with locating and pulling one off of an earlier scrap yard car.

Also, as mentioned above by demonspeed, I prefer the Auburn rear in the '98s, as well as the more accurate coolant temp gauge.

'98s also get larger injectors, comparable to the '01-'02 injectors and larger than the '99-'00.

The intake/exhaust manifolds/head castings don't really matter if you plan a build where these items will be changed/upgraded anyway. At that point, the only item that can really be argued is the PCM difference - which again is not a big deal at all for the typical heads/cam car when tuned by a good and experienced LS1 tuner.

newchevyman

iTrader: (15)

As others have stated condition is key. My last T/A had surface rust in a lot of spots and was in general a beater. The condition of the car drove me crazy. When I sold it, I wanted the lowest mileage F-body I could get in the best condition for a reasonable price. Mine has a little over 8k miles and is immaculate. Since your end goal is 450-500 hp, the last thing you want to worry about it having to fix up one in poor condition.

The car in the ad looks clean. It has some aftermarket parts (exhaust, wheels, shift ****) but nothing that would keep me from checking it out. Price is reasonable. No engine shots is unusual considering how clean the rest of the car is. I would check to see if the OEM carpet floor mats are available with it as well. Best of luck!

metalmilitia606

iTrader: (8)

Me personally I would go for an 01 or 02 because of the intake and other small things. I also have two buddies that had/have 99's and both of them had freakish electrical problems. My one friend has changed his alternator three times and has some other weird stuff always happen. Could just be coincidence, but who knows.

Eagle564

Ya ill mainly look for a clean low miles rig, but my ideal car would be an 01-02 trans am WS6, ttops and all. I jusy love the big muscley hood and styling compared to the camaros. But I'd settle for a clean camaro too.

z-maro

iTrader: (18)

You may regret "settling" for a car. The last thing you would want is to walk into the garage everyday, look at a camaro and be thinking "I wish it was a WS6."

Eagle564

Ya I know, its not that I don't want a camaro, I just like the ws6 styling more. Its hard to find them around here.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Don't do that. Get what you really want, or you'll find yourself selling it in favor of what you should have gotten in the first place.

I made the mistake of buying a brand new WS6 Trans Am about 14 years ago. That was not the right car for me, as I find Camaro styling to be much cleaner and a better fit for me. So I sold it, and went back to Camaros.

Never settle for cars that you don't really like.

TORK?

iTrader: (27)

I agree with this comment. I wanted a 6 speed and what I found was a 98, so a 98 is what I got. Even the newest fbody is pushing 12 years old, so it's not like all 02's are cleaner and a better car.

The thing to do is to get the car you want. Want a black Trans Am? Look at all 98-02 black Trans Ams. Want a low mile car TA or Camaro? Look at all low mile 98-02 cars.

These cars are reaching a plateau in prices where a lot of 98-02s are costing around the same. 6 years ago this wasn't the case and everyone wanted 01-02. In my opinion, the 98s have less room to depreciate than the 01-02 and still bring as many thrills.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

This is a good point.

black79transam

Don't settle. I wanted a 6spd but mine is a a4. I got such a good deal on it that I felt like I could not pass it up. I love the car but there are days I wish it was a 6spd.

Overall my love of the car is a 8 where if it was a 6spd it would be a 9

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, trans type is another important thing where you shouldn't "settle". Few people are equally happy with either trans type, usually there is a preference for one or the other.

In my case, I don't like manuals so I'm always looking for autos whenever I'm in the market. It's hard to find low mileage autos once they get to be this old, since most of them were driven regularly as daily drivers. Low mile M6s seem to be easier to find since many were weekend toys.

Color is another big one for some people. If you are at all picky about this (as I am), then don't settle for a color that you don't really like either. A complete and proper color change is extremely expensive, this would be far more difficult and expensive to do properly than even a trans type swap.