fbody4everyone

Ok, so frustrating at the highest level! I had to come to ls1tech to see if anyone else has had this problem. I have a 2002 ws6 6speed. All of the lights on dash came on and I sputtered home... 2 months later, saving up the cash....I bought a brand new ac delco alternator, was 176$ on top of that, bought a brand new delca battery for it as well. installed them both, took it out on a drive and the charge on the volt gauge was still under 13 (in the orange area) so i went over any grounds i could see and cleaned them. I cleaned the negative battery cable pretty good as well. The car starts up just fine! but the volt gauge is still not getting out of the orange and drains slowly while idling/driving. Ideas anyone?
thanks in advance!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

$176 for a new Delco (part #19244783) alternator? How? List price is $451 and most discount programs only bring it down to $240-300, depending on discount type. GMPD lists it for $240 but then you have to pay over $50 in shipping/processing/handling.

I bring this up because some of the cheaper alternator rebuild brands aren't very reliable, so perhaps you didn't get a good one (because for that price it doesn't sound like a GM reman unit.)

The other thing to look at is the exciter wire, that's the little red one that plugs into the top of the alternator. It won't charge without this wire solidly connected (this is PCM supplied battery voltage), and they often get partially or fully ripped out of the connector during alternator swaps on these cars. So I'd take another look at that weatherpack connector and the wire within.

fbody4everyone

is the wire you are talking about, a thin red wire? As I put the new alternator on, I did see this hanging right above the alternator thinking maybe it was something else where does that exactly plug into on the alternator?
this would make so much sense..and I never thought about it ill check that out, thanks alot!! appreciate it!

fbody4everyone

okI took alternator out and found the 4 prong pigtail input on top (cant believe i didnt see that before). but cant find any '4' wires hanging above it that could have 'ripped off' but, im assuming the red wire that is hanging just connects to a 4 prong pigtail that i could get from a local parts store?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Yes, the exciter is the thin red wire and it's the only wire that goes into that connector (the other 3 pins are left empty). Without this wire connected, there is no hope of proper charging.

I've seen some online sources for this connector, perhaps it was Ebay. I believe they are still an available dealer item as well. Not sure if the local parts stores would have it.

fbody4everyone

I bought the connector, it had 4 wires coming from it but I wired the 1 I needed and it worked. it was pretty pricey at 40$ but it worked and I appreciate it! my gauge now reads correctly 13.5-14.6 thanks!!

jtl12419

iTrader: (13)

Arise from the dead....this seems like a common problem that is oft repeated in various threads, on multiple forums.....

Now it has happened to me:

HELP!! Please.

98 Camaro type PCM and alternator, Track vehicle (Mazda rx7)
Alternator was working fine until this weekend, then no charging after 5 track sessions -- NO MORE THAN 11 VOLTS AT THE BATTERY
Alternator tested fine...(new alternator installed, same result- no output at the battery).

Single wire plug to top of alternator, in L position, seems undamaged, normal.

Questions:
According to findings on internet discussions, that single exciter wire on the 98 Camaro does NOT go to the PCM, confirm correct?

Where does this single red wire from the harness to the exciter get the current from? How do i test the current coming from this wire (what volts should I see with engine off, ignition on then engine on)?

Guesses on what went bad to cause this out of the blue?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Yes, and no... the red wire comes from the PCM on a V6 Camaro but comes from the instrument panel (check gauges light) on a V8. The power comes from the GAUGES fuse which is hot in run. start, and bulb test. There is a 470 ohm resistor in the circuit to limit current. So I would check that you have the red wire connected to such a source in your car to match the OEM setup. In f-bodies, a blown GAUGES fuse will cause the symptoms you describe.

jtl12419

iTrader: (13)

Thanks that's helpful.

98 Camaro PCM,. LS engine. So wire is not from the PCM

The car has run fine for 10 years on this wire circuit only replacing alternators for mechanical reasons, never used a resistor. I'll check the fuses.