Inspection/emissions test queston
02-12-2017, 05:45 PM
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Inspection/emissions test queston Hello all. I'm new to the forum so I wasn't sure where I should post this at so if it's posted in the wrong area...my apologie. Ok so my question is about my 02' WS6. In Spring of 2012, I had fallen on hard times and so when my beloved Obsidian(my car) lost 3rd and 4th gear in the 4L60-E, I could not afford to get it rebuilt. The hard times lasted up until this past January when after nearly 5 years, I could FINALLY afford to bring her back. She went up to 2 years without being started at times (mistake, I know) so I had to replace the fuel pump. Over the course of a month and a half, I got the transmission rebuilt, two brand new back tires, 4 O2 sensors, 2 new cats, new Interstate battery, fixed the window motor, fixed all the blinkers, signals and headlights, and various other little issues. It has been started and run regularly since November but not driven any where outside my neighborhood other than across town twice for Tranny rebuild and getting O2's and cats installed. You wouldn't know it sat nearly 5 years from driving it...runs and drives nice and smooth. Did the front brakes yesterday...rotors are good. I also got insurance a few days ago and tomorrow, I'm going to try to get it tagged and inspected which leads to my queston. When I first purchased the car back in 2009 from a used car dealer nearly 100 miles and took it to get inspected, they said that the emissions tests where not ready because someone had recently disconnected the battery. Told me to drive it about 70 miles and it should pass which it did. My concern is...without it tagged/inspected, I haven't driven it far...(although it has been started and driven around my neighborhood 25+ times) I'm worried that I may have the same issue. It's not like I can just go joy riding to get the system ready. I cannot afford a ticket. Does anyone have any ideas or maybe anything else I should be concerned about before taking it in for the inspection? The battery hasn't been disconnected in over a month, but like I said, it hasn't really been driven much. Any help is GREATLY appreciated as this will once again be my daily driver so I really need it to pass. Thanks! =-]
02-12-2017, 06:42 PM
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I have no idea what state you live in, but here in IL you can get a temp registration to drive the car for testing. You can use this same plate to drive it around long enough to complete all the readiness monitors if you follow the OBD drive cycle/relearn process (won't take long if you follow the process, you can Google "OBD drive cycle" for the generic instructions.) You don't actually have to drive 70 miles or any other specific distance, it's just a matter of hitting all the requirements for the drive cycle to run all monitors.
You would need an OBD scanner to check the monitors yourself, if you wanted to see if it was currently "ready" based on the limited driving you've done recently. Or you'd just have to go to the test center and let them tell you. Either way, your state must have some sort of program for temp registration just for this exact type of situation.
You would need an OBD scanner to check the monitors yourself, if you wanted to see if it was currently "ready" based on the limited driving you've done recently. Or you'd just have to go to the test center and let them tell you. Either way, your state must have some sort of program for temp registration just for this exact type of situation.
02-12-2017, 08:12 PM
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Thanks for the response. I live in a town called Alvin in South East TX. I assume, they will tell me the same thing they did last time if it isn't ready...go to know they may give me a voucher or something so I don't get a ticket while I'm trying to get it ready. They gave me one last time...I just didn't like driving it with a 2012 sticker which would be like neon sign for law enforcement. Hopefully, it just passes or they can tell me what I need to do to get it ready.
02-13-2017, 02:37 AM
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Here is the OBD drive cycle - GM:
They likely won't give you this sort of special instructions at the test center. If the monitors are incomplete, they will just tell you to drive the car some more. But since you want to limit driving until you get a permanent plate, following that drive cycle will be the quickest way to get everything complete.
Also, and this may vary from state to state, you are usually allowed one or two "not ready" monitors when you test. In IL, you can have two "not ready" for '96-'00 cars, and one "not ready" for '01+ cars. So, check with your state EPA but, you might not have to get them all complete just to pass.
General Motors Driving Cycle
A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.
To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:
1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.
To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:
1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
Also, and this may vary from state to state, you are usually allowed one or two "not ready" monitors when you test. In IL, you can have two "not ready" for '96-'00 cars, and one "not ready" for '01+ cars. So, check with your state EPA but, you might not have to get them all complete just to pass.
02-13-2017, 09:01 PM
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Thanks for the reply....I unfortunately have bigger issues now which I posted about in a different post. SES came on with a P0410 and P1153 which is odd since the second code is for an 02 sensor which all were just replaced. Guess that's what sitting so long will do. Hope it's an easy fix.
02-14-2017, 12:33 AM
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Just an FYI when you get back to trying to pass the E-test....you don't need to drive a ton of miles. You could literally drive for hours and hundreds of miles and never get all the monitors to complete if you don't begin with a proper cold start (as outlined above.) Most or all of them can really be set quite quickly in a majority of cases if you just follow the drive cycle instructions. EVAP is sometimes tricky to set though. Better to do this at night time with an open road (considering the deceleration portions, etc.)
02-14-2017, 02:22 PM
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Now it's got a new code P0300 (random multi cylinder misfire) and today it didn't want to start. It finally started but idled like crap and tried to die for about a minute but then idled normally with not much difference felt driving. I've researched all these codes and there are so many things that could cause them it makes my head spin. I have no idea if they are related or all separate issues. I felt like I was so close to finally getting my car tagged, inspected and back on the road...that has been my dream for nearly 5 years...my dream is quickly becoming a nightmare. Oh...and it only runs rough from a cold start...starts and runs pretty much normally the rest of the day.
Last edited by Ezra_Dark; 02-14-2017 at 03:01 PM.
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03-22-2017, 06:53 PM
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Here is the OBD drive cycle - GM:
They likely won't give you this sort of special instructions at the test center. If the monitors are incomplete, they will just tell you to drive the car some more. But since you want to limit driving until you get a permanent plate, following that drive cycle will be the quickest way to get everything complete.
Also, and this may vary from state to state, you are usually allowed one or two "not ready" monitors when you test. In IL, you can have two "not ready" for '96-'00 cars, and one "not ready" for '01+ cars. So, check with your state EPA but, you might not have to get them all complete just to pass.
They likely won't give you this sort of special instructions at the test center. If the monitors are incomplete, they will just tell you to drive the car some more. But since you want to limit driving until you get a permanent plate, following that drive cycle will be the quickest way to get everything complete.
Also, and this may vary from state to state, you are usually allowed one or two "not ready" monitors when you test. In IL, you can have two "not ready" for '96-'00 cars, and one "not ready" for '01+ cars. So, check with your state EPA but, you might not have to get them all complete just to pass.
Last edited by Ezra_Dark; 03-22-2017 at 06:54 PM. Reason: Added more
03-22-2017, 07:51 PM
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So I finally got all said codes fixed and am now back to trying to pass the OBDII. I have driven it over 500 miles and gone through the drive cycle about 7 times and still getting 2 not readys on the catalyst and evap. Every day, I drive it and go through the drive entire drive cycle and then to the inspection place where they check it and tell me those two are still not ready. They are baffled as am I. I am allowed one not ready in TX so I only need to get one of them ready...HELP!
03-22-2017, 08:31 PM
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I may try this as I'm driving with a long overdue inspection sticker. I got a written voucher from the place doing inspection saying it needs to be driven more but this is getting old. I'm ready to try anything. I would buy a tuner myself but I don't have $500+ to blow since I spent alot already getting transmission rebuilt, replacing the cats and O2's and all the other miscellaneous things that I have repaired or have had repaired including fixing all the issues that had been causing the SES to come on....air check valve, temperature sensor, etc were replaced as well.