Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

Within this month. I wasn't sure if I should put this in a tech forum because these are still general / opinion based questions.

I'm shooting for 600 - 700 HP. Basically... Want to be in league with the current model ZL1 in stock form. I still haven't decided on the motor choice (Toss between a Low CR 372 CI LS1, Heads / Cam LS2 or LQ4) but was going to use a Magnacharger TVS2300 blower. I know the general conscience is Procharger but I love how the Maggies sound and the way they look under the hood.

I'm starting in reverse. Building the drivetrain up first, then finally the motor (which will give me time to decide on what I'm going for.).

For the Rear Axel I was going to go for a Hawks Custom 8.8" Rear End with 3.55 Gears. It comes to approximately $3k. I have alittle more than that saved up right now but wasn't sure if I should replace the rear axel first, or go for the transmission. Both will cost approximately the same. Second gear is slipping in my current A4 right now but I don't drive this car daily - just sits in the garage collecting dust.

Intended this to be a slow build - wasnt going to throw it all together in one shot, but was going to remain persistent on it.

Probably going to do the transmission first just incase I need to drive it, I can... but wanted your opinions.

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

I would go tranny first for sure, reason being how long I let mine sit when I did my swap. Drive it as much as you can between phases. I did my swap all at once it was way to many changes off the bat so it became difficult to figure out problems vs just nature of the car in its new form. Sad news some the things Ive dismissed later turned out to be issues. In my case it was a bit hard not to do it all since I swapped from v6-v8, but id definitely advise drivetime between big changes like that.

Z Fury

iTrader: (1)

If the trans is slipping, I'd do it first as it resolves the driveability problem. I do fully support your approach though - drivetrain before motor.

I would go in this order:
1. Transmission
2. Rear Axle
3. Full suspension
4. Engine + Blower (or blower as a #5 if money doesn't allow both in one shot)

No point in "being on the same level with the current ZL1" if it handles like ***.

Also, I agree on the Maggie over the Procharger. I love both, but the Maggie looks so good in there. Procharger would get higher numbers overall though. Keep in mind the Maggie, especially the 2300, doesn't fit well under the windshield of the F-body, so you may have to do some work to shoehorn that thing in there. I remember years ago a guy selling a TA with a C5.R block and a Maggie blower on it. Can't remember what had to be done to get it in there, but I remember him saying it was well worth the effort. Good luck!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Even if the trans wasn't slipping, I would still recommend upgrading that before worrying about the rear when building an auto car piece by piece for that kind of eventual power. You might be surprised at how much some of these small 7.5" rears can take behind an auto if you can manage to keep wheel hop under control. Here's an informative thread on the topic:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ock-7-5-a.html

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

What kind of stall would you recommend on the converter?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Do you plan to change the converter when the engine build is complete? A major FI build is likely going to benefit from a different converter than what would work best with the current configuration.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

I guess in that case I should probably keep the stock converter and stall it when I build the motor / SC.

Would you recommend any vendors for a transmission? I wasn't sure how much I should trust eBay and don't know any local vendors around me that will build a transmission to handle 700 + HP... Aamco said they would but I'm kind of having a vibe that's not a good idea. Anyone else you can recommend?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

With planned power in the 600+ HP range, you'll definitely want someone familiar with building the 4L60E for power. Forget about local/chain "stock" rebuilders, IMO.

We've had lots of great transmission sponsors here over the years, all make a great product. I've personally had the FLT (level IV) unit in one of mine, I went with them based on reputation and the fact they are local to me, and I have nothing but great things to say about it. I wasn't making 6-700 HP, but there are members here who are doing so (and more) on some of FLT's even higher level units.

sngallagher5560

iTrader: (3)

I would definitely not go with Aamco.. that just sounds like more money to be spent down the road. I went with Monster transmissions. Not sure if they are a sponsor on here, but they are great to work with. Had some issues a while back with the trans (my fault not there's) and they were quick to help and send over parts. Paired it with a 3800 stall. Tho its just a H/C/I car, I did the drive train/suspension first. You're on the right track and you'll be glad you did the "boring" stuff first

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

I was looking into other vendors as well, Perfomabiult (heard alot of bad things about them), FLT, havent checked Monster yet. I was also looking into a 4L80E swap. Alot of local vendors are highly suggesting to just go with a 4L80E vs messing with the 4L60E, They say the way the 4L60E is designed there's no way it can be garunteed to handle alot of power even after being built. Any truth to this?

I was beginning to think maybe go 4L80E but the conversion process looks fairly extensive..

So far its a toss between FLT and a 4L80E if I feel comfortable with the conversion.

sngallagher5560

iTrader: (3)

Well, a 4L80E would definitely be a stronger trans and give you more room to grow. Ultimately it depends on what you want to do with the car, but A 4l60e can be built to hold 6-700hp. Personally, I would go that route (as i already have)

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

I think I've settled on a FLT transmission.. Level 7...
So next question is .. the converter.. What kind of stall should I run on a stock LS1 with intake and pretty soon, exhaust?

fst100

iTrader: (5)

i'd stick with a 3600-3800(4000) stall. depending on whether you will be tracking it much or just daily drive it more or 50/50?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

^I agree with the above recommendation, ~3500-4000 range for a stock/bolt-on or mild cammed LS1 is about perfect (favoring the lower end of that range for more street duty, or the higher end for more track duty.)

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

When considering a lot of aspects of this build and fielding recommendations, how do you primarily intend to use this car and what type of events, if any, would you want to participate in? Drag racing, Auto cross, road course, mountain cruises?

If you're not launching the car at the drag strip, I wouldn't worry as much about the 4L60 and rear end. Let the tires be the "fuse" at that point. I'd probably shoot for a 275 square tire setup myself. If you do plan on doing that, then you'll need to beef those up considerably at those desired power levels ($$$$). And then consider how much the ability to rip low E/Ts is worth to you vs what it costs for the upgrades.

FWIW, I really like what UMI has developed for the F-body platform's suspension.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

Setup moreso for Autocrossing than the drag strip, although I dont intend on doing either event very often, occasional at best. Mainly its a street car.
I already have 295's on the rear and 275's on the front.. suspension needs alot of work though. All stock and 220k miles... that was probably my next mod to address.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

For AutoX, you'll probably prefer the smaller (lighter) 7.5" rear end compared to the 8.8. Having the trans worked and the UMI suspension upgrades will probably make you fall in love with the car again.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

Another thing I noticed is that Hawks Performance has T-56 Swaps for about $3k, add 1k more and its rebiult to factory standards...will that be a good candidate for a 600 - 700 HP car? Or should I stick with a biult 4L60E?

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, if you want to auto-x, a stalled auto is probably the worst way to do it.

You could probably source the parts for the swap for a heck of a lot less than $3k. Just keep an eye on the for sale section here, craigslist, and facebook.

Put me down as another nay sayer for the magnacharger. It's a pain in the *** for what you get out of it, which is heat, a whole lotta hot air forced into your engine. Most people go with a centrifugal blower because they make more power, and require significantly less body mods to fit.

If you do stay auto, 4L60's aren't known to live long above 600hp. If at all possible, go to a 4L80.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

If you want to be competitive in Auto-X, a manual is the way to go. You pretty much run those courses in a single gear and having that instant torque out of corners is beneficial along with engine braking. How serious are you about running Auto-X?

Personally, I wouldn't want the task of a manual conversion. Perhaps I'm just lazy, but it seems like a real PITA and quite expensive. I'm not in love with the T56 trans either--having daily driven one for 6+ years. I haven't driven a TR6060, but I hear it's much better. There are trans builders that offer the 6060 internals in a T56 case.