BLKWS.6

How can I tell if this thing is ragged out? I was told something about door-panel separation?

My current check list includes:

Rubber in rear wheel well

axle-motion limiting rubber thingy device thing

knock/rattle in motor

transmission shifting ease

presence of aftermarket exhaust on a car owned by someone under 30 (ppl rev it just to hear it, I know I do, lol)

Saggy doors

weatherstripping on the T-tops

SES or other lights

exhaust tubing and K-member for scratches/bottoming out signs

the general attitude of the seller during the test drive/ride (reluctance/happyness to get on it)

condition of oil currently in car

type of filter on car (someone who hot-rods it prolly uses a special filter, but a better filter means they spend more attention/ money on the up-keep, kindof a wash imho)

Window motor strength

saggy seats/infamous tear on driver side bolster

Carfax

tread depth on all tires

windshield and wipers (stripped wiper blades kill windshields)

fog lamps for cracks, window motors on a TA (easy fix, good negotiation point)

Ok guys, the time draws closer and is now defined. Will be ready to purchase around Jan 1, no-later than Jan 5 as far as I know. Suggestions welcome!!! PLease tell me anything else F-body specific or otherwise to check!

The Red WS.6

iTrader: (4)

Whats up, and congrats for switching over to the force.lol jk... Hey you may want to nix the window motor strength. The flat out suck. I got my ta brand new in 02 and the motor driver side crapped out on me after my warrenty ran out. Figures. And needless to say I take care of it, period. But use it as a negotiation tool like you said. If the owner dosent know that they suck, and give out, then he/she dosent know that an f-body's details are all in the engine. lol. And if the passenger or driver side seatbelt plastic guider is broken, well that probably means they got out of the car with the door shut and the T-top off. I had to change a flat on the free way and got out of the car like that and broke it. I could have hung myself right there. Also, unfortunatly, I was hit in the right rear quarter panel so when you lift up the carpet in the back you can see where it was welded and piced back together as well as the paint not matching up from the inside. And if they did a crappy paint job it will probably be flaking inderneath where they dont care and the lack of quaity should cause the paint to have some spiderweb cracks in it. You seem like a detaied oriented fellow, who dosent want to get screwed, so good job at staying dedicated to the cause. Hope this helps! Good luck...

BLKWS.6

Thanks! Yeah, I am just switching over to a nicer vehicle. The 5.0 is rediculously rough around the edges.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

rear end whine

braking stability (if the rotors are pretty warped, lots of hard stops)

check for a k&n, might show ragged on potential

thats really all I can think of.

SSDoubleK

iTrader: (100)

Undercariage, below the doors, Under the rear federwells, under the front for severe scraping.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

oh, and dimples in the rear 1/4

Ell Ess Won

If youre worried about it, just pay the $50 or whatever the shops are charging, and get a used vehicle inspection with a compression check.

Shallow Bay

iTrader: (3)

This.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/441807-car-lifted-wrong.html

BLKWS.6

I would think a compression check would be more than $50 since its basically the same labor as a plug change? Am I wrong? If you can do that for $50 ill do it!

02NBMFormula

iTrader: (6)

check for any holes where someone might stick a nitrous bottle blow down tube

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

Referred to as the 'Joust Spacer.'

I would check the front fenders to see if they were GM. Might be a wreck indicator. Usually the paint on the edge of the door is sharp if the door has been redone.

One of my doors feels smooth on the inside edge of the lip. I am talking about the area of the door you grap to open it. The space between the quarter panel and back end of the door. Anyways, the other door is sharp indicating damage or a repaint.

BLKWS.6

Where would I find these holes?

JustAnIlluzion

iTrader: (60)

spare tire compartment, ttop compartment, between the rear seats.

Y2K Z28

iTrader: (1)

When i went to buy mine i just looked it over very good from top to bottom and looked for broken parts opened all the doors and compartments opened the console opened the glove box pushed all buttons and stuff made sure all the lights work. If a car has been dogged most often one of these will be broken. Especially the console. I looked the engine over the best since it is the most expensive part to replace. When i bought mine my main factor for choosing it was the fact that the guy didnt seem to wanna part with it but i thought he was doing it for financial reason even though he claimed he was getting a c5. He was also super particular about it. I think I got lucky. One major tip i've always gone by is avoid black or red. There are exceptions but every red car i've owned has been a lemon and black cars get beat on more as well it seems.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

Compression check alone is $100, then another $80-100 for a vehicle check. Well worth it IMO.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

Bring a long metal pole and place it against the engine and ear. Could listen for weird operation.

WS6Jim

iTrader: (9)

The attitude of the seller and type of person they are has a lot to do with it. I mean yes check out all of what was said, but really see what kind of person they are overall ask them history questions and their overall reason for selling. I was lucky where I found a middle aged guy that only liked pontiacs and the car was stock and clean. The only reason for selling it was his new gto sitting next to the formula and the 67 convertible gto in the garage. Please try to avoid dealers they know little to nothing about the car except what it will take for them to sell it to you. Also try to stay as local as possible for any future links tjat need to be made. I think also try to be a knowledgeable but nice guy yoursself so you don't put off the seller either. Oh also you might want to have a few different ideas on what you want be open to whats in your market and be patient at the same time. January 1 makes it sound like a cool new years resolution. Pluys you've been on this site long before you had an LS1 of your own which is a good thing. I've been a member since summer of 04 but finally got the formula in oct 05. I had a thrird gen 90 formula compareable to your stang fun but rough around the edges despite all my investing. Have you test driven any ls1s yet because they are better in so many ways to these older cars. Comparing the two cars my new formula has 2x the hp but still gets better gas mileage. You said it yourself its time for a better car. Good luck for when the time is right. It was a very happy day when I finally rode home in mine.

carado1984

take a 1/4 socket extension and take out the add fluid plug in the rear. stick your pinky in there and make sure theres enough fluid. If you plan on keeping the rear (not swapping for a 9" or 12bolt), because if it was ran without much fluid theres a good chance its going to blow apart soon. Put a new gasket on after you buy it too. Check the tranny fluid for discoloration. <--- if thats a word. Old fluid + mods = blown 4l60e. If its a 6-speed.. Give it a few 0-120 runs haha see if the clutch sticks to the floor. If you get an 01-02 youre ok if not buy the 01 slaves etc. Check MAF for screen. A dumbass might have taken it off. Did anyone mention headlight motors on a firebird? if they arent working you can buy a metal gear to replace the nylon gear in the motor and replace it. Sorry if i repeated anything. Now rip apart your 5.0 and make it a 2600lb drag car.

SpdFrk1990

iTrader: (6)

I guess you got your car alrdy but wow you really worried about checking the air filter. I got my car off a middle aged guy and it was stock. You know 99% of people that own these cars get on them a lil tho they will hold up. I will be modding my car pretty much and I get on the gas sometimes but I dont beat the crap out of it. I never dump the clutch or drag race it or use nitrous. I just like to know the power is there when I want to push the pedal down doesnt mean im hard on it.

When I looked for mine I checked for how it felt when I took a test drive, looked for signs of leaking weather stripping, amount of rust, If the aluminum parts had corrosion from salt, Dents, Condition of the interior, ran a carfax, looked for any signs of a repaint.

BLKWS.6

Yep, everything on this is good, yeah the MAF had a screen. Its GOOD! to get on these cars time-to-time. just not good the thrash them. I go WOT once or twice every drive (never to redline unless im actually racing, usually only to about 4K or so).