BLKWS.6

Driving along at 40mph, bucked 2x, saw a "check guages light" saw oil at 0psi and cut the key off. I pulled over, cranked right up (after verifying oil level, ect) the thing had no rattles (abnormal rattles) and idled fine and oil pressure was okay. Then after a few minutes of idling okay it just jerked a couple times and died again. I cranked it again, and again all guages were okay. I drove it home. I dont know whats wrong with this thing, the SES light never came on, just teh "check guages" light. I dont know whats wrong with this thing. WHy is it that my **** is always the stuff that has phantom problems Even LS1's suck for me

SmokeySS

iTrader: (7)

That really sucks to hear especially since you were the one nervous about picking which year based on redesigns so that you would get the most reliability possible.

02SS#406

iTrader: (1)

Check your battery cables VERY well...totally disconnect them, and look for corrosion. It may be a bit of a stretch, but I've seen this happen, and it was a bad cable/connection at the battery.

iroc85blu

iTrader: (2)

try messing with your oil pressure sensor. If im not mistaken if your oil pressure sensor if telling the computer that it has no oil pressure it may do all kinds of crazy stuff like try to shut off

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

Ahh, good call, that happened to one of my friends. His car just died and it took us forever to figure it out. If its corroded don't feel bad, his was and his car had like 6k on it at the time.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

do you even have gas? low gas will cause bucking and check gauges.

Ell Ess Won

GL trying to sell a broken car for 17k lol.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

LOL, I thought I was the only one thinking that.

BLKWS.6, Cars have problems from time to time. Some of my cars have had odd issues as well. You can't just give up every time something goes wrong. You'll be buying and selling cars constantly.

Intermittent issues are hard to fix. You may have to wait till it breaks completely before you can figure it out. In the mean time, I'd suggest a PCM scan to look for any DTCs.

jims73z

iTrader: (1)

My honda had 2 transmissions before 30k , Cars aren't perfect.

BLKWS.6

Battery cables were TIGHT with no corrosion. The low oil pressure was caused by the dead engine I think, and I never got an SES light so there will be no codes. Also the car seems to idle high (1-1100 rpm at times). I have no clue whats wrong with it I feel like **** though considering everyone told me GM had electrical issues before I got it and I have done nothing but chase them since owning the car (wouldnt start, rpms went to 2500 off the gas intermittantly (already used propane torch to check for leaks) now it dies intermittantly. I have no clue what to think. This thing blows.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

First off, just because you don't have an SES light doesn't mean that a scanner won't catch a pending DTC. If the issue is a Type B code, it won't trip the SES till the second occurance of the same exact issue with X amount of drive cycles. But the code will be stored as pending. So it's still worth doing a scan. It certainly can't hurt, just find someone local with an OBD scanner.

Second, GM doesn't have any electrical issues that other manufacturers don't, and LS1s in general are not known for any major electrical issues.

Did you ever fix the other problems? If not, my guess is all the current symptoms with your car may be related. It may take some time to find the issue, and you may have to do some trial and error with parts replacement (unless you just want to wait till it breaks fully).

Don't give up so easy. Checking for vacuum leaks alone isn't enough to toss in the towel just yet.

iroc85blu

iTrader: (2)

oh another thing that happened to one of my good friends is his alternator was overcharging the battery. It would come in and out and chug and lights flashing. He drove it home like that ( i was riding with him and his battery blew up ). All the overcharging from the alternator was making the computer go crazy. Can test the alternator with a dvom and check the battery for swelling.

BayAreaSS

iTrader: (10)

Your giving up WAY to easy

S99TA

GM usually runs the power for the fuel pump through the oil pressure sending unit if oil pressure goes to zero it shuts off the fuel pump.

Ironxcross

iTrader: (8)

+1 to that...

It's a nice car you have there, don't just give up so easily. Besides... RSX's are SLOW

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

There's probably a few V6's that'll trade you straight across if you're looking for reliability and don't want to fuss with the car. The 3800 SII's are tanks when it comes to milage and durability.

I'd go with the oil pressure sending unit as well. When was your last oil change? How about coolant? Is your filter clean as well?

JD_AMG

WTF is with all your problems man... How many miles are on your car? DO NOT get an RSX, you will regret it. I drove a base RSX and it was an absolute joke, bad ride quality, rattles, absolutely no power at all and decent handling at best. If you want something new with a warrently get a GTO.

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

check air filter too!!! and MAF screen.....

redramair98

iTrader: (74)

i had a rsx type s and wow was that car gay

transam5.7lt1

iTrader: (18)

I agree with S99TA, when oil pressure falls too low, it shuts power to the fuel pump in order to avoid engine damage, oil pressure switch might be acting funny on your t/a, like everyone said, don't give up so easy..... Wanna trade??? I'll trade you a Vey Reliable 1994 trans am plus cash???? j/k