BLKWS.6

Replaced the IAC, it now happily idles at 1100 rpm all the time, rpms rise to over 2500 when in neutral and coasting, and my Traction Control turned itself off and would not turn back on on the way home. Got home, restarted the car 2 or 3 times and trac control came online as always, car idled at 1100 each time. I am really getting fed up with this **** guys. I thought these cars were supposed to be reliable. Everyone told me GM couldnt wire a a christmastree if they tried, maybe they were right, but why is it MY **** that has to be like this

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

Give it time. I think the ECM learn out ur problem. If you disconnect the battery it may reset the idle air. Other wise it will take a while to learn out.

BLKWS.6

Sorry for the stupid question, but black or red? Which one do I disconnect?

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Always disconnect the negative, which is black.

BLKWS.6

thx, i knew one was a no-no.

BrandonDrecksage

iTrader: (1)

your cursed, i'm the opposite, this is the only car that i've purchased that hasn't been stupid to me. I bought a new nissian sentra spec v. Second gear started grinding at 5k miles and I didn't even beat on it. Sounds like you either have a vacum leak or the tuning is off, has the car always idled so high? My car idles that high when it is cold, 1k-1.1k...when it warms up it settles down to 600-700.

BLKWS.6

car is bone stock, no tune at all.

Car was warm as it could get.

Went around the entire thing with a propane torch, no leaks, and no whistling, and a vac leak kills stuff, not smoothly speeds it up, its getting METERED air.

BrandonDrecksage

iTrader: (1)

I'm asking if it has always done this? If it has, maybe the previous owned had a tune on it with mdos, then removed them, just a shot in the dark i guess.

BLKWS.6

No, it drove like a dream for the first week or so. I LOVED the thing, now, its worse than my 88 GT which im thinking of trading back with my dad for. Thank God I didnt sell it to someone else!

BLKWS.6

Here is hot idle:



Also, I went WOT and it took 5-10 seconds to come down to idle, it slowly drifted down, is this normal on LS1's? or should it drop like a rock?

When cranked, it launches up to 1700 rpm and comes down pretty quick.

What do you guys think, is it normal?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Who told you that?

Depending on the size and type/location of a vacuum leak, it can most certainly casue the idle to "hang up" or raise. Beleive me, I've had vacuum leaks do that, even on an LS1 car.

So you replaced the IAC and it's still doing the high idle thing. But is it still stalling as well? If the stalling problem is fixed and all that's left is the high idle issue, maybe the GM techs can figure out the problem if it's constant now.

BrandonDrecksage

iTrader: (1)

after going wot, my car does take a few second to come back down to idle. Its annoying, liek if i go wot in 3rd gear to like 5k on the highway, then shift to 6th, i wait for the rpms to drop to what they should be around, and it always takes mroe time than it should. Your idle looks fine...I thought it was idling around 1100.

also, your saying that the idle goes to 2.5 in nuetral thats when your at a dead stop or when coming to a dead stop? My traction control turns its self off sometimes, but i almost always turn it off anyway.

BLKWS.6

It was, I re-set things. Also, it idles around 1K until I fully stop, then it drops to that ^ Normal?

BrandonDrecksage

iTrader: (1)

i don't knwo if tis normal, its done it in my car since I bought it though. I always thought the clutch wasn't completely disengaging, but don't think its because of that because my clutch still grabs strong after 40k miles.

is the stalling problem fixed?

BLKWS.6

So far no stalls and the RPMS havent slowly climbed since my ECU reset...

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Hell, even my A4 car (with a preset 550rpm idle in gear) hangs at around 800-900 until the car is stopped. So with your 800rpm M6 idle I'd say hanging at 1,000 is normal.

BrandonDrecksage

iTrader: (1)

I think you should calm down, relax. if the stalling problem happens, then get worried. Right nwo it jsut seems your car is relearning idle and what not. Your car seems to be fine. so, relax, take it out for a nice drive, the more you drive it right now, the better you'll feel, or you'll hit problems. You won't find out unless you drive it though. Everything its doing now seems normal. If the rpms aren't climbing adn the car isn't stalling your good to go. How long sinc eyou've resetted everything?

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

i think its got somthing to do with the incoming air while your moving is causing the RPM's to stay up a couple hundred untill you stop and the air isint being forced in. in my Z it does that if i take it to 100 and let it coast in neutral it will keep the RPM's around 1200 then when i stop it idles down to around 800. i think your "Ram Air" could exaggerate this effect more than my Z28 will.

BrandonDrecksage

iTrader: (1)

once the throttle body closes..its not longer sucking huge amounts of air(hence why its in vacum, and almost completely going out of vaccum while going wot), let alone being able to force air in. I've read in the pcm/tuning section that it is because of emission to have the rpms hang like that and that tuning will make it stop.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Throttle cracker / follower make the RPM stay up
until you get to very low MPH. This is normal. But
1000+ RPM is maybe a bit excessive.

This seems to me like a vacuum leak as well. You
have stuff at the back of the intake (AIR, brake
booster, even MAP sensor grommet) that can be
hard to get at.

If it's different than it was, it's not entirely a tune
problem. More likely brought on by mods or damage.