fccs

iTrader: (26)

I've been all around between 224 228 and the torquer 2.. but After reading up I still cant figure out what to do. This car is a daily driver for summer, I want to get close to 400rwhp with my stockish look and components with the exception of headers/exhaust and the cam I choose mainly. What would you guys say is best? a Texas speed 224R or a 228R They seem to be almost identical and I would be getting a 114 lobe separation. So what do you guys think is best for just everything in general as a DD but still having a good amount of power to throw you back in the seat?

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

I was going to go with the 228R before I decised to have a custom cam specd by PatrickG. I was told very good things about it and it is a powerfull yet drivable cam. If it were me I would get a 112 lsa for a choppy idle and better midrange but you seem like you want a sleeper. Maybe consider paying the $25 and have PatrickG spec you a custom cam...you only end up spending about $30-35 more than you would for the 224R or 228R but you could get either more power with the same drivability or vise-versa. Also alot of the drivability is in the tune. Just my opinion but you should give PatrickG a try, all you need to do is tell him your power goals and that you want it to be a driver and he will hook you up!

fccs

iTrader: (26)

Yea I thought about custom cams but im not sure yet. Im going with the 114 because of 2things, inspection passing and it sounding like a sleeper. I'm even keeping the stock catback so it looks completely stock but I have a e cutout on the I pipe to open it whenever I want.

homerunhtr21

iTrader: (18)

I had the 228r cam and I loved it in my DD. If I get to purchase anothe head cam setup I will probably go with that cam again.

02silvaZ

iTrader: (12)

well how about these questions, are you going to run the stock intake manifold and heads? if so, then get with thunder racing and get a reverse split cam, they make better numbers than traditional splits when you are using the stock components, check the sticky at the top of the page in gen III internal engine forum

landonew

ain't getting 400rwhp from either of those cams w/o a set of heads. More realistic goal would be 375rwhp. Would be an excellant DD though, and plenty fast if you aren't too into racing.

fccs

iTrader: (26)

What would be a good set of heads that you would recommend then? Link me because id probably change that while the cam is out

homerunhtr21

iTrader: (18)

Also I didnt see if you wanted a stall or not but to use a cam to the fullest a stall would help greatly...Even a small one around 3000 or 3200 would do wonders for a stock car. I made right at 360rwhp through a 3400tc and the 228r...but please dont get caught up on dyno numbers, there just numbers. btw my car did give a throw your head back feel (sold=)

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

torquer 2 if you want a monster..

landonew

Gotta love the chacotaco quote, LOL!!! What a tool.

The quality of heads are DEPENDANT on the size of your pocket book. I would recommend the patriots as a good budget head. Obviously, substantial gains can be had from an aftermarket casting such as ETPs or AFRs, but they are considerably more expensive.

Heads are quite a bit of a step up in cost, and I would imagine that they would quadruple the cost of your build. I would recommend that you go with a slightly bigger cam, such as mine (230/232). Give Patrick G a call and have him give you specs on a custom one. You will be satisfied with a cam swap for now. The right cam/supporting mods should get you into the 390s give or take. Very fun, and much more cost effective than Heads, IMO. Take it from a guy who spent a significant amount of $$$ getting the best of the best, The money really adds up and you can have 10-15K in the car before you know it.

homerunhtr21

iTrader: (18)

If your gonna change out the heads also a Texas-Speed package would be perfect and save you some money...The 2.5 5.3L heads and a 228r or 224r cams would be great for a DD imo

fccs

iTrader: (26)

Im a m6 lol should have mentioned that..

Greed4Speed

iTrader: (7)

A 114 LSA isn't going to make a 224-228 cam a sleeper. It'll still have too much overlap for that. If you want a sleeper cam look at MTI stealthII, TR CheaTR or Old Man cams or LPE GT2-3.

While you're shopping around more check out their other grinds and throw Futral, Vengeance and some of the others into the mix. Patriot also has a new cam grind for their heads and the TFS 228/230 is nice too.

Don't do a reverse split. There are threads about the cons of them.

If you can afford ported heads, then choose them first and pick a cam based on that descision.

Also don't look at a peak HP goal. I'd rather have a cam that makes more "under the curve" than one that peaks higher. Build you car as a whole instead of just getting to a HP goal.

fccs

iTrader: (26)

jesus everytime I look and think ive made a choice something always makes me want to change it aha.. where can I even check for what the cam makes under the curve?

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

TR230 or MTI X1 for a street car!! reverse splits make some sick under the curve and is perfect for street cars.

96ta

let me help you out...i was where you are a couple weeks back. when people say the "most power under curve" you looking more or less for broad consistent power throughout the rpm's. people who are hooked on peak numbers fail to realize that while they make 475rwhp at 4700 rpm they fail to see that by 5700 rpm its down to only 425rwhp(i just pulled the numbers out of my **** as an example). power under the curve cams will not make nearly as much peak but they will be consistent

ps sorry i forgot to answer your main question but you want to look at dyno sheets. take into consideration where you shift at and compare dyno sheets one after another. keep in mind this will give you a ballpark figure b/c all dynos are different and so are the tunes

ChevyThunder17

iTrader: (48)

Where are you located? What sort of vehicle inspection do they perform in your state if they have them? When I lived in NY they were doing the rolling dyno test, now they perform an OBD-II scan which is better for aftermarket stuff such as cams because with a good tune it won't throw codes and fail the car.

Be sure to keep in mind you want to tune the car no matter what cam you go with as you'll never realize the full potential of the car without it.

BTW, I voted for 228R. I had one in my Trans Am, and it made good power. I never had it dyno tested, but I was pleased with the seat of the pants dyno. Just remember that bigger is not better when it comes to cams.

Good luck!

Greed4Speed

iTrader: (7)

Again, there are several threads about the cons of reverse split. The problem I have with people generalizing in thinking reverse splits are the answer is that yes, some have had great success with them. Those are the guys who post up. The guys who buy into the hype and have less than desirable results rarely post. Thats with any mods though.

I've seen guys who suggest the Hot Cam because they got 380 whp out of that tiny cam. Does that mean others will? Possibly. Does that mean most will? No.

Now ask yourself, are the fastest cam only cars running reverse split? No. Why? Because they're not the best cam for the set up. If reverse splits were the best more people would run them, shops would push them harder, and the fastest cam only cars surely would run them. But...they don't

Greed4Speed

iTrader: (7)

First you need to decide what you want out of your car. What are your ultimate goals with your car? Sleeper? Max HP? Broad torque curve? Great street manners? Do you want a choppy idle? How many RPM are you willing to spin? Are you going to put gears in it? Are you going to go with ported heads? What do you have to do to pass emissions?

fccs

iTrader: (26)

emissions here are relatively easy to pass anyways, I just want a good cam that has power all around not just at 6000rpms, to be honest if the cam went to 6700rpms for example, I wouldn't push it that high so theres no point. I plan on keeping the stock heads for now and at least for a while, I might change gears but that wont be until after I change the rear which wont be for a while. I looked at the VRX4 cam also, but I cant find ANY dyno results from it even though they say it has a great under curve and its a 1900-6700 powerband, they say its great for street driving but I wanna see the numbers to show how it is or how hard it is to pull out with. I will be getting a tune done obviously whenever I pickup a cam but I just cant seem to find enough info on a cam when I want to look into it.