Rediculously low voltage(Long post, bear with me)
12-28-2008, 06:12 PM
#1
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Rediculously low voltage(Long post, bear with me) My car has really low voltage. Today i was heading down the road and it started a gradual decline from around 13 into the caution zone. It got low enough that my TCS, ABS, air bag, and gauge cluster turned off. About halfway in between 8 and 13. I tried to make it to Advance but the car then started to sputter so I pulled off the side of the road and shut it off. Disconnected the battery during which I snapped the bolt for the wedge in half. I think it was the original battery that the car came with honestly. My parents took the battery to Advance and had them run a load test, bought a new battery while I stayed with the car. Put it in. It fires up fine. About 5 miles down the road the voltage starts fluctuating again then drops back to where the caution area begins enough to turn on the check gauges light. Advance ran a test on the battery, starter, and alternator and said all was fine and checked out. The voltage right now holds steady at the beginning of the caution zone. Question is this: Do I need a new alternator? I would think that the car would just die if the alternator was bad. Like I said, it holds steady at the top of the caution zone. Any help is appreciated. Searched and found nothing about voltage running this low.
12-28-2008, 07:09 PM
#2
your alternator is probably bad. Thats an exact symptom of it.
Alternators can slowly fail. I changed mine last week and it was dying over a couple week period. So they don't just die completely.
PepBoys, lifetime warranty Pro-Start alternator. $149.00
Takes about 15 minutes to change it. Make darn sure that when you lower the old alternator that you don't break the excitor wire that plugs into the alternator. Its a tiny wire, I broke mine last weak and had to fix it. If its not the alternator, take it back for a refund.
Alternators can slowly fail. I changed mine last week and it was dying over a couple week period. So they don't just die completely.
PepBoys, lifetime warranty Pro-Start alternator. $149.00
Takes about 15 minutes to change it. Make darn sure that when you lower the old alternator that you don't break the excitor wire that plugs into the alternator. Its a tiny wire, I broke mine last weak and had to fix it. If its not the alternator, take it back for a refund.
12-28-2008, 07:16 PM
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Hey, young HARD CHARGER listen up!!. These alternators have an internal voltage regulator built insideof them,To change it, you have to change the whole alt. as LS6427 stated above.Get one w/a good warranty.That is all. U.S.M.C. vet 1979-1990
12-28-2008, 07:28 PM
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your alternator is probably bad. Thats an exact symptom of it.
Alternators can slowly fail. I changed mine last week and it was dying over a couple week period. So they don't just die completely.
PepBoys, lifetime warranty Pro-Start alternator. $149.00
Takes about 15 minutes to change it. Make darn sure that when you lower the old alternator that you don't break the excitor wire that plugs into the alternator. Its a tiny wire, I broke mine last weak and had to fix it. If its not the alternator, take it back for a refund.
Alternators can slowly fail. I changed mine last week and it was dying over a couple week period. So they don't just die completely.
PepBoys, lifetime warranty Pro-Start alternator. $149.00
Takes about 15 minutes to change it. Make darn sure that when you lower the old alternator that you don't break the excitor wire that plugs into the alternator. Its a tiny wire, I broke mine last weak and had to fix it. If its not the alternator, take it back for a refund.
12-28-2008, 07:39 PM
#5
I was getting the feeling that it was the alternator. I've been looking around online to find some. The pepboys one sounds good, but it's remanned. How "limited" is the warranty? As for "HARD CHARGER", it sounds like my Gunny followed me home for leave, lol. Appreciate the responses and thanks for your service 87gnx.
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12-28-2008, 07:54 PM
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LS6427- How hard is it to change out the alternator? I want to do it myself to save some green but I'm thinking about how difficult removing and replacing the belt is and the limited space available to work with. I also don't have a lift available, only ramps.
12-28-2008, 08:18 PM
#9
Just release the serpentine belt, no need to replace it. You can also try to reach down and unplug the exciter wire from the alternator before removing it. If you just look straight down at the alternator from above you can see the plug. Try to do that first. If you can't get it, just make sure when you get the 3 bolts (two front long ones and 1 short one in the back) out that hold the alternator in that you don't pull the alternator down to far and break that wire. Its a small delicate wire and breaks easy, so don't pull on it at all. After you get the 3 bolts out you have to work it out forward towards the electric fan and then down and out. Once you get it down and out it will hang on the larger cable that is bolted to the alternator, unbolt that wire and you're done. Then put the new one in in reverse.
You just have to work it out to get it by the fan. If the alternator doesn;'t want to break free from the mounts after you remove the 3 bolts, just smack it with a rubber hammer. My broke free from hitting it a couple times with the plam of my hand.
Its definitely a do-it-yourself job, its easy.
12-28-2008, 08:21 PM
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It's about a 15 minute job. Ramps are just fine.
Just release the serpentine belt, no need to replace it. You can also try to reach down and unplug the exciter wire from the alternator before removing it. If you just look straight down at the alternator from above you can see the plug. Try to do that first. If you can't get it, just make sure when you get the 3 bolts (two front long ones and 1 short one in the back) out that hold the alternator in that you don't pull the alternator down to far and break that wire. Its a small delicate wire and breaks easy, so don't pull on it at all. After you get the 3 bolts out you have to work it out forward towards the electric fan and then down and out. Once you get it down and out it will hang on the larger cable that is bolted to the alternator, unbolt that wire and you're done. Then put the new one in in reverse.
You just have to work it out to get it by the fan. If the alternator doesn;'t want to break free from the mounts after you remove the 3 bolts, just smack it with a rubber hammer. My broke free from hitting it a couple times with the plam of my hand. Obviously the belt has been on there a while and has worked it's way into being looser than a brand new one.
Its definitely a do-it-yourself job, its easy.
Just release the serpentine belt, no need to replace it. You can also try to reach down and unplug the exciter wire from the alternator before removing it. If you just look straight down at the alternator from above you can see the plug. Try to do that first. If you can't get it, just make sure when you get the 3 bolts (two front long ones and 1 short one in the back) out that hold the alternator in that you don't pull the alternator down to far and break that wire. Its a small delicate wire and breaks easy, so don't pull on it at all. After you get the 3 bolts out you have to work it out forward towards the electric fan and then down and out. Once you get it down and out it will hang on the larger cable that is bolted to the alternator, unbolt that wire and you're done. Then put the new one in in reverse.
You just have to work it out to get it by the fan. If the alternator doesn;'t want to break free from the mounts after you remove the 3 bolts, just smack it with a rubber hammer. My broke free from hitting it a couple times with the plam of my hand. Obviously the belt has been on there a while and has worked it's way into being looser than a brand new one.
Its definitely a do-it-yourself job, its easy.
Last edited by 99T/A_Marine; 12-28-2008 at 08:27 PM.
12-28-2008, 08:27 PM
#12
You can take the serpentine belt off and put a new one on in about 2 minutes. Cut the old one off if you're replacing it, then just put the new one on. It actually just comes right off once you release the tensioner.
12-28-2008, 08:29 PM
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Sounds good. I'll be picking up an alternator tomorrow and replacing it as soon as I get home. Wish me luck...I'm going to need it, lol.
12-30-2008, 08:27 PM
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MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE EXCITER WIRE!!!! I just had the same problem you where having. Replaced the battery and the Alternator but still would not charge cost me $30 to replace the clip for the alternator and it works fine now.
12-30-2008, 10:32 PM
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Exciter wire was disconnected. The wire popped out of it's slot when the alternator was coming down but I spliced it with one I had and reconnected it to the clip. It holds right now at around 11 volts maybe. Just enough so the check gauges light stays off so it's got to be giving at least a small charge. I did a deep cycle charge on the battery last night as well. The presence of the power steering fluid on the exciter wire is what I am thinking is not allowing a full charge out of the alternator. Or maybe it dripped into the brushes and is slowly killing it. I'll know for sure tomorrow. I'll let you know what's up.
12-31-2008, 03:42 PM
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So I found the source of my problem, the high pressure hose running from the power steering pump to the steering rack. When I woulc turn the wheel, it would squirt p/s fliud all over the alternator from a small pin size hole in the side. Replaced it today along with another alternator and all looks to be well. The leak is gone and the alternator is charging normal. Glad the nightmare is over.
01-01-2009, 07:59 PM
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Glad you figured it out! I have been having a similar problem with mine. Sometimes it will be around 13-15 volts/amps(on gauge) on start up, but once you get the the road it drops to about 12, and if headlights are on, or a/c or I have my brakes engaged it drops down to 10ish.
I replaced the alternator w/ a brand new 230AMP one, w/ an overddrive pulley, but it now actually reads less on the gauge at idle now. I am stumped. We did have an issue w/ the exciter wire, but we did our best to soulder it and tied it back into the wire. Anyway to check if the wire is making a good connection?
I replaced the alternator w/ a brand new 230AMP one, w/ an overddrive pulley, but it now actually reads less on the gauge at idle now. I am stumped. We did have an issue w/ the exciter wire, but we did our best to soulder it and tied it back into the wire. Anyway to check if the wire is making a good connection?
