changing spark plugs and wires. Any advice
#1
changing spark plugs and wires. Any advice
Sorry if this has been beaten to death but I swear the search button is'nt working! I think I know what tools I need because I've seen the installuniversity write up. I still have a couple questions though. I've heard the stock plugs are really hard to get out, can you spray WD40 or something down there to make them easier to break loose? I'm really scared of breaking a spark plug off in the head! Also what are the best plugs and wires to go with for just a bolt on car? I'm not going to be spraying or adding a cam any time in the near future. What should my plugs be gapped at? Thats pretty much it unless y'all have any other helpful advice
#2
NGK Iridium IX TR-55IX (.055 gap)
or if you want a smoother idle
NGK Iridium IX TR-5IX (.040 gap)
MSD ignition wires are the best in all my experiences. Not sure if they have issues on F-bodies rubbing headers or anything, but they are a great wire.
I wouldn't spray wd40 down there buddy
Have you tried taking them out before? Is that why you think they will break? Don't overtorque them when you put new ones back in.
or if you want a smoother idle
NGK Iridium IX TR-5IX (.040 gap)
MSD ignition wires are the best in all my experiences. Not sure if they have issues on F-bodies rubbing headers or anything, but they are a great wire.
I wouldn't spray wd40 down there buddy
Have you tried taking them out before? Is that why you think they will break? Don't overtorque them when you put new ones back in.
#4
I just did mine for the first time a few weekends ago. I too was totally scared I'd f-something up. Just take your time and don't get frustrated if you can't get the right combination of socket+extension+wrench on the first try. I think I had a different combination of tools for each plug.
I did find getting the original plugs out to be a pain, and I had to use a breaker bar to get them loose. Just make sure that your socket is seated correctly around the sprak plug nut and you'll be fine. Once they're loose you can pretty much un-screw them by hand.
I too followed the installuniversity write-up, but I didn't remove my strut bar.
Tips:
*Get #8 from the bottom (passenger rear plug)...way easier than from the top.
*On the passenger side take off the air tube and move the cruise control cable runs and you'll have plenty of room for #2,4, and 6.
*Use antiseize on the new plug threads and they will screw in like butter.
*Use dielectric grease on the inside of both plug wire ends and they will slide on easily.
*To know that the wires are seated properly, listen or feel for 1 click on the plug end, and 2 clicks on the coil end.
I used stock delco iridiums (GM# 12609877), 0.040 gap which have superceded the original factory installed delco iridiums with the 0.060 gap due to customer complaints about rough idles. I've heard good things about the NGK plugs too.
For wires I went with the stock LS6, Z06 red delco wires (GM# 89017270) which are direct replacements for our stock LS1 wires.
Bottom line: take your time even if you feel like , try different combinations of wrenches, swivel sockets, extensions...you'll find one that works, and when your done,
I did find getting the original plugs out to be a pain, and I had to use a breaker bar to get them loose. Just make sure that your socket is seated correctly around the sprak plug nut and you'll be fine. Once they're loose you can pretty much un-screw them by hand.
I too followed the installuniversity write-up, but I didn't remove my strut bar.
Tips:
*Get #8 from the bottom (passenger rear plug)...way easier than from the top.
*On the passenger side take off the air tube and move the cruise control cable runs and you'll have plenty of room for #2,4, and 6.
*Use antiseize on the new plug threads and they will screw in like butter.
*Use dielectric grease on the inside of both plug wire ends and they will slide on easily.
*To know that the wires are seated properly, listen or feel for 1 click on the plug end, and 2 clicks on the coil end.
I used stock delco iridiums (GM# 12609877), 0.040 gap which have superceded the original factory installed delco iridiums with the 0.060 gap due to customer complaints about rough idles. I've heard good things about the NGK plugs too.
For wires I went with the stock LS6, Z06 red delco wires (GM# 89017270) which are direct replacements for our stock LS1 wires.
Bottom line: take your time even if you feel like , try different combinations of wrenches, swivel sockets, extensions...you'll find one that works, and when your done,
#6
I just did mine for the first time a few weekends ago. I too was totally scared I'd f-something up. Just take your time and don't get frustrated if you can't get the right combination of socket+extension+wrench on the first try. I think I had a different combination of tools for each plug.
I did find getting the original plugs out to be a pain, and I had to use a breaker bar to get them loose. Just make sure that your socket is seated correctly around the sprak plug nut and you'll be fine. Once they're loose you can pretty much un-screw them by hand.
I too followed the installuniversity write-up, but I didn't remove my strut bar.
Tips:
*Get #8 from the bottom (passenger rear plug)...way easier than from the top.
*On the passenger side take off the air tube and move the cruise control cable runs and you'll have plenty of room for #2,4, and 6.
*Use antiseize on the new plug threads and they will screw in like butter.
*Use dielectric grease on the inside of both plug wire ends and they will slide on easily.
*To know that the wires are seated properly, listen or feel for 1 click on the plug end, and 2 clicks on the coil end.
I used stock delco iridiums (GM# 12609877), 0.040 gap which have superceded the original factory installed delco iridiums with the 0.060 gap due to customer complaints about rough idles. I've heard good things about the NGK plugs too.
For wires I went with the stock LS6, Z06 red delco wires (GM# 89017270) which are direct replacements for our stock LS1 wires.
Bottom line: take your time even if you feel like , try different combinations of wrenches, swivel sockets, extensions...you'll find one that works, and when your done,
I did find getting the original plugs out to be a pain, and I had to use a breaker bar to get them loose. Just make sure that your socket is seated correctly around the sprak plug nut and you'll be fine. Once they're loose you can pretty much un-screw them by hand.
I too followed the installuniversity write-up, but I didn't remove my strut bar.
Tips:
*Get #8 from the bottom (passenger rear plug)...way easier than from the top.
*On the passenger side take off the air tube and move the cruise control cable runs and you'll have plenty of room for #2,4, and 6.
*Use antiseize on the new plug threads and they will screw in like butter.
*Use dielectric grease on the inside of both plug wire ends and they will slide on easily.
*To know that the wires are seated properly, listen or feel for 1 click on the plug end, and 2 clicks on the coil end.
I used stock delco iridiums (GM# 12609877), 0.040 gap which have superceded the original factory installed delco iridiums with the 0.060 gap due to customer complaints about rough idles. I've heard good things about the NGK plugs too.
For wires I went with the stock LS6, Z06 red delco wires (GM# 89017270) which are direct replacements for our stock LS1 wires.
Bottom line: take your time even if you feel like , try different combinations of wrenches, swivel sockets, extensions...you'll find one that works, and when your done,
**Get a new gasket for the AIR tube, if you use the old one and it leaks you will get a ticking sound. Cheap, less than a dollar, and you might ruin it taking it off anyway.
I use the AC Iridiums and Taylor wires. But that was last summer. May change this year. But whatever you choose, dump the stock wires with the funky heat tubes, not needed. And anti sieze on the plug threads and di-electric grease on the wires and you will not have to wrestle with a hard plug change again.
The first time is for learning, but still should be less than 4 hours. I'm down to about 2 hours, with beer breaks.
#7
well I'm glad I deleted my AIR! I bought some Bosch platinum plugs from advance, they are gapped at .040. Guess I'll get some wires off line somewhere. Where did you find LS6 wires? are they cheap?
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#13
I get at #8 by squatting ( sitting) on the battery ( I don't weight that much ) Coils are removed air is removed and just get my socket on the plug and short extension and a flex joint and loosen the plug. Fairly easy I just have it down pat.
#15
I got the LS6 wires online from fredbeansparts - OEM catalog - Mechanical Parts, but you can get them from gmpartsdirect as well. I forget the price...$60ish maybe.
#16
Sorry if this has been beaten to death but I swear the search button is'nt working! I think I know what tools I need because I've seen the installuniversity write up. I still have a couple questions though. I've heard the stock plugs are really hard to get out, can you spray WD40 or something down there to make them easier to break loose? I'm really scared of breaking a spark plug off in the head! Also what are the best plugs and wires to go with for just a bolt on car? I'm not going to be spraying or adding a cam any time in the near future. What should my plugs be gapped at? Thats pretty much it unless y'all have any other helpful advice
Advance Auto Parts plug wire set...$36.00 You won't find any other wire available, no mattwer how much money you spend, that will outperform them on a stock engine or any engine up to like 700 fwhp.
#18
#20
I found #8 easy from the bottom, I couldn't even get near it from the top. I was able to reach my arm up beside the cat and get a wrench on it. I actually did the wire on that plug from underneath too. I have skinny arms though, and even then it was a bit of a tight fit.
I wouldn't even bother with the coils. I started to unbolt mine, and got fed up with it by the 3rd bolt. Since I got the #8 from underneath, I didn't need the extra clearance. Only thin I had to unbolt was the air tube. I bought a gasket from the dealer for like 82 cents, but I didn't end up needing it.
It actually wasn't as bad a job as I had expected. It looks intimidating, but once you get going with it it's not that bad.
A .75" extension is your friend here, it's well worth the money.
I wouldn't even bother with the coils. I started to unbolt mine, and got fed up with it by the 3rd bolt. Since I got the #8 from underneath, I didn't need the extra clearance. Only thin I had to unbolt was the air tube. I bought a gasket from the dealer for like 82 cents, but I didn't end up needing it.
It actually wasn't as bad a job as I had expected. It looks intimidating, but once you get going with it it's not that bad.
A .75" extension is your friend here, it's well worth the money.