replacing window motor tomorrow...
03-06-2009, 11:36 PM
#1
replacing window motor tomorrow... all the writeups i've found to replace window motors just drill through the panel to access the rivets. I'd rather just remove the regulator/everything so i can rivet the motor back in. i'd have to drill pretty huge holes to get the rivet gun in there.
any way to do it without drilling through that panel? is it possible just to take the whole regulator out? any writeups that show that way?
any way to do it without drilling through that panel? is it possible just to take the whole regulator out? any writeups that show that way?
03-07-2009, 12:35 AM
#2
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dont worry about riveting man... not needed. the holes do not hurt anything structural. just drill it out and bolt it in with loctite. this is what i did and it works perfectly.. taking everything out is just going to be extra work IMO if you dont have to change the regulator.... Make sure you get a Siemens brand window motor, they are one of the best.
Last edited by got-a-ls1; 03-07-2009 at 01:18 AM.
03-07-2009, 02:32 AM
#3
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dont worry about riveting man... not needed. the holes do not hurt anything structural. just drill it out and bolt it in with loctite. this is what i did and it works perfectly.. taking everything out is just going to be extra work IMO if you dont have to change the regulator.... Make sure you get a Siemens brand window motor, they are one of the best.
03-07-2009, 10:07 AM
#4
I'd suggest you look at the AutoZone motor. They have a new design (does not look like the old ones) that is supposed to be better sealed and is claimed to last longer. (You get the lifetime warranty also.) Another bonus of the AutoZone motor is that it is new. If you go with a Siemens, it will probably be remanufactured. (I've never had two remans work at the same speed!)
Riveting is a far superior bonding method for this stuff. Vibration doesn't effect them but... you'll pay a price. Rivets are a bitch to deal with and (if you are going to keep the car for a while) you will need to replace the motors again at some point!
If you do want to rivet, you'll need some special equipment and will need to take some additional precautions:
- You'll need a large riveter like this one: http://www.bylerrivet.com/products/i...t=415&pid=1543 (This will set you back at least $100. A home depot special won't handle the size rivet you will need.)
- The rivets to secure the motor to the regulator will need to be around 3/16" and made of steel. Again, you'll need access to a MRO supply to get these. (I like to use mscdirect for this kind of thing.) Or... if you really want to do this, PM me and I can hook you up with a small quantity. (They come 100 or 250 to a box.)
- The rivets to secure the regulator to the door are special ones for the composite panel. You need to get these from the dealer, part # 10157547. If you do not use these special rivets, (Steel core with aluminum jacket.) you will run a great risk of cracking your door panel! Again, if you really want to do this, PM me and I can hook you up. (I have extras.)
For drilling out the rivets, you'll need to use a metal punch to make a pilot indentation in the exact center of the steel mandrel. You'll need to use a 1/4" drill bit and need to hit the exact center of the rivet, otherwise you'll drill in to the door. When you drill, keep in mind that the center (steel) is hard and the jacket (aluminum) is soft - so you'll need a drill with a very sharp center point, like a pilot point bit.
Once you get the regulator loose, you'll need to be wearing gloves. The edges of the regulator are sharp and will cut you all up when you do the odd moves to get the thing out of the door.
Then, when you drill out the motor rivets, you'll need to put a large bolt and nut through the holes in the regulator to keep it together when the motor comes off. If you don't know already, the motor is the only thing keeping the regulator spring tight. If you don't have the regulator secured, it will turn in to a midevil beheading device - and the regulator/spring may come apart.
Riveting is a far superior bonding method for this stuff. Vibration doesn't effect them but... you'll pay a price. Rivets are a bitch to deal with and (if you are going to keep the car for a while) you will need to replace the motors again at some point!
If you do want to rivet, you'll need some special equipment and will need to take some additional precautions:
- You'll need a large riveter like this one: http://www.bylerrivet.com/products/i...t=415&pid=1543 (This will set you back at least $100. A home depot special won't handle the size rivet you will need.)
- The rivets to secure the motor to the regulator will need to be around 3/16" and made of steel. Again, you'll need access to a MRO supply to get these. (I like to use mscdirect for this kind of thing.) Or... if you really want to do this, PM me and I can hook you up with a small quantity. (They come 100 or 250 to a box.)
- The rivets to secure the regulator to the door are special ones for the composite panel. You need to get these from the dealer, part # 10157547. If you do not use these special rivets, (Steel core with aluminum jacket.) you will run a great risk of cracking your door panel! Again, if you really want to do this, PM me and I can hook you up. (I have extras.)
For drilling out the rivets, you'll need to use a metal punch to make a pilot indentation in the exact center of the steel mandrel. You'll need to use a 1/4" drill bit and need to hit the exact center of the rivet, otherwise you'll drill in to the door. When you drill, keep in mind that the center (steel) is hard and the jacket (aluminum) is soft - so you'll need a drill with a very sharp center point, like a pilot point bit.
Once you get the regulator loose, you'll need to be wearing gloves. The edges of the regulator are sharp and will cut you all up when you do the odd moves to get the thing out of the door.
Then, when you drill out the motor rivets, you'll need to put a large bolt and nut through the holes in the regulator to keep it together when the motor comes off. If you don't know already, the motor is the only thing keeping the regulator spring tight. If you don't have the regulator secured, it will turn in to a midevil beheading device - and the regulator/spring may come apart.
03-07-2009, 12:16 PM
#7
get the one from autozone that has the lifetime warranty...its like $3 more.
i was able to get this done in about 45 minutes in the rain using **** drill bits, and this was probably the first major thing i ever done on my car too. its not hard at all. try to get one of those mirrors dentists use and itll make your install so much easier.
i was able to get this done in about 45 minutes in the rain using **** drill bits, and this was probably the first major thing i ever done on my car too. its not hard at all. try to get one of those mirrors dentists use and itll make your install so much easier.
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03-07-2009, 01:08 PM
#8
i bought my motor like a month ago off of partstrain. when i went to install it today i found that the holes had already been drilled and replaced with nuts/bolts. pulled the old motor out, tested it and it worked fine. the teeth just fell off the track or something. put in the new one anyway and it works great so now i'm going to use the original one in the passenger door since that one's dead also. took me a few hours just because i was working slow and had to drill all of the holes in the motor bigger to fit the screws and i spent a lot of time cleaning/greasing things.
03-07-2009, 01:26 PM
#9
One other thing to prepare for if you do the regulator pull method is to be sure you have some Syl-Glyde on hand. (I've only ever been able to find this at NAPA.) When you pull the reg, you will probably loose some track grease. Syl-Glyde is an exact match foor the lube, so you don't need to worry about cross-contamination of lubricants when you re-lube the tracks.
03-07-2009, 02:10 PM
#10
03-07-2009, 04:42 PM
#11
finished the passenger side a few hours ago. it was the original motor with 90k miles on it. no wonder it was so slow. i drilled a few extra holes in the door by accident because i misjudged the location of the rivets horribly. weight reduction i guess. also almost punched through the outside door skin when i drilled out one of the rivets. anyway they're both in and i can finally use my windows again. now i don't have to worry about getting pulled over and having it not work haha.
03-08-2009, 08:10 PM
#12
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nice job, not as bad as you thought it would be right? 
Whats this about the autozone motor? i havnt heard anything about that one? but always heard good things about siemens. The siemens is faster then dealer replaced one on the drivers side so im happy with it.
Whats this about the autozone motor? i havnt heard anything about that one? but always heard good things about siemens. The siemens is faster then dealer replaced one on the drivers side so im happy with it.
03-08-2009, 11:11 PM
#13
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I have swapped several window motors on Camaros and Trans ams I agree with these guys just drill it and bolt it. The holes dont have to be very big at all and the bolts hold it just fine plus it makes it alot easier for next time, and if you keep your car long enough there will be a next time.
03-14-2009, 10:21 PM
#18
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It doesn't take much force to drill them out. You will feel them go. I did this awhile back too. Putting that clear plastic back up and getting that black **** all over you sucks though.
That stuff is gooey!
That stuff is gooey!
