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Power Steering Cooling Success
#361
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I've really appreciated your updates, RPM WS6, as it's really putting this entire thread into perspective. While I'd have to agree the cooling should be doing something, I'm not sure it was worth it at this point. Perhaps if I had it located somewhere besides the bottom of the radiator support...
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I don't know at what point the fluid temp becomes a serious problem (that GMHTP article mentioned 275°F being the failure point for seals, but significant wear probably starts somewhere prior to that), but so far it seems that the stock cooler would only serve a purpose at steady speed cruising where coolant temps exiting the radiator are lower than the PS fluid temps for extended periods, or applications where coolant temps have been modified to remain lower under all conditions (though this was not part of GM's plans when the coolers were installed).
I can only imagine that GM installed these coolers to prevent large temp spikes under severe conditions (much like the factory trans cooler, which is also hindered by high factory coolant temps that won't allow much cooling - until you push the trans hard).
I think wssix99 mentioned that, with his aftermarket cooler, he had seen fluid temps in typical summer heat that were in line with the 162° temp that I observed in somewhat cooler weather. In comparasion, I am now seeing fluid in the 18x° range with no PS cooler in the usual summer temps for our region. There are obviously several variables that could be present between our respective readings, but I think it's probably fair to assume that a small air-to-fluid cooler is able to drop fluid temps by an average of ~20° even when placed in a somewhat less than ideal location. Having said that, how much benefit is there to keeping fluid temps in the 160s vs. the 180s? I'm no power steering system engineer/expert, but if we use the 275° temp mentioned by GMHTP (assuming they have done their research) as the critical threshold, then it seems like the difference between 16x° and 18x° would be marginal in terms of lifespan for an average daily driver.
Again, I think the aftermarket cooler is probably a good idea for cars used at competition level, or maybe in super hot climates, but I don't think there would be much (if any) net benefit in my particular application - since mouting one in the typical location does introduce a potential risk, albeit small, of impact damage.
Last edited by RPM WS6; 05-15-2013 at 01:52 PM.
#362
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Again, I think the aftermarket cooler is probably a good idea for cars used at competition level, or maybe in super hot climates, but I don't think there would be much (if any) net benefit in my particular application - since mouting one in the typical location does introduce a potential risk, albeit small, of impact damage.
Either way, I think we've see some good evidence where, at the very least, removing the factory "heat exchanger" is a prudent thing to do.
On the other hand... I might try removing it to see how things go. If I start seeing more of a fluid-at-the-reservoir issue then that may mean it is/was useful.
#364
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http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ering_coolers/
power steering fluid follows the rules of ATF and other hydraulic fluids regarding temperature- around 150-200°F is what to shoot for. this keeps viscosity under 50 cSt which reduces power steering pump effort which would increase corporate gas mileage.
a rule of thumb thrown around for oils and atf is for every 10° C over ~180° F the oil's life is cut in half due to oxidation.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...lubricant-life
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/.../oil-breakdown
They put the 1-4 skip shift on for that reason and a few other things happen during warm up or get things to warm up as fast as possible with OBD-2 for fuel economy and emissions reasons.
the interesting thing would be to measure temps throughout the power steering system, I think the only place the heat comes from is the pump and engine heat soak. down at the rack if it doesn't see radiator air may be cooler.
power steering fluid follows the rules of ATF and other hydraulic fluids regarding temperature- around 150-200°F is what to shoot for. this keeps viscosity under 50 cSt which reduces power steering pump effort which would increase corporate gas mileage.
a rule of thumb thrown around for oils and atf is for every 10° C over ~180° F the oil's life is cut in half due to oxidation.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...lubricant-life
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/.../oil-breakdown
They put the 1-4 skip shift on for that reason and a few other things happen during warm up or get things to warm up as fast as possible with OBD-2 for fuel economy and emissions reasons.
the interesting thing would be to measure temps throughout the power steering system, I think the only place the heat comes from is the pump and engine heat soak. down at the rack if it doesn't see radiator air may be cooler.
#366
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I think your assumption is correct, that with severe use (rapid/frequent turning, or maybe desert type heat), this design may provide an overall cooling effect that's just enough to be beneficial.
Also, this makes sense as another factory-intended benefit of the "cooler":
...this keeps viscosity under 50 cSt which reduces power steering pump effort which would increase corporate gas mileage.
They put the 1-4 skip shift on for that reason and a few other things happen during warm up or get things to warm up as fast as possible with OBD-2 for fuel economy and emissions reasons.
They put the 1-4 skip shift on for that reason and a few other things happen during warm up or get things to warm up as fast as possible with OBD-2 for fuel economy and emissions reasons.
10°C = 50°F therefore,
180°F + 50°F = 230°F as the point when fluid life would be cut in half. And so far I have observed temps that have stayed below 190°F sans cooler.
FWIW, I've regularly drained/refilled the pump reservoir over the years in both of my current LS1 cars. I know this isn't the same as a full flush, but it does allow fresh fluid to mix in on regular occasion. Perhaps this is a another reason why I don't have some of the boilover issues that others have seen.
#369
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I'm looking at using the harden 402 model because I don't want to drill. Would it work properly behind the airdam without any holes cut?
Fwiw my car is a summer daily driver maybe 1 track day a year and a few aggressive starts at stop signs
Fwiw my car is a summer daily driver maybe 1 track day a year and a few aggressive starts at stop signs
#370
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If you are going to put a cooler out of the airflow and want it to be efficient, you'll need a "frame rail" cooler designed for the purpose.
This will probably "work" but it won't be as efficient as it could be in the airflow.
See RPM WS6's comments above. At the point you are putting in a cooler in an inefficient spot, there's probably no point in doing it at all.
#371
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You want to have your cake and eat it, too? ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
If you are going to put a cooler out of the airflow and want it to be efficient, you'll need a "frame rail" cooler designed for the purpose.
This will probably "work" but it won't be as efficient as it could be in the airflow.
See RPM WS6's comments above. At the point you are putting in a cooler in an inefficient spot, there's probably no point in doing it at all.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
If you are going to put a cooler out of the airflow and want it to be efficient, you'll need a "frame rail" cooler designed for the purpose.
This will probably "work" but it won't be as efficient as it could be in the airflow.
See RPM WS6's comments above. At the point you are putting in a cooler in an inefficient spot, there's probably no point in doing it at all.
Just get yourself an upper hose for a '98 Z28 and call it a day.
#372
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Actually, if you remove the cooler, the resulting weight reduction should increase your acceleration potential. We'd need to do a comprehesive evaluation of acceleration rate before and after removing the cooler to have solid facts, though. ![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
On a more serious (but probably unnecessary) note, one thought I've had is in regards to tires. I wonder if a fresh set of sticky, competition level tires (and the resulting increase in road grip) would make a noticeable difference in PS system heat? The tires on my test car are ~25k mile old Z-rated all-seasons, they aren't bald and don't slip under normal driving conditions, but they certainly wouldn't hold the road like the BFG KD series max-performance-dry-weather-only tires that were optional on SSs in the later years.
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
On a more serious (but probably unnecessary) note, one thought I've had is in regards to tires. I wonder if a fresh set of sticky, competition level tires (and the resulting increase in road grip) would make a noticeable difference in PS system heat? The tires on my test car are ~25k mile old Z-rated all-seasons, they aren't bald and don't slip under normal driving conditions, but they certainly wouldn't hold the road like the BFG KD series max-performance-dry-weather-only tires that were optional on SSs in the later years.
#373
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I suppose tires with more rolling resistance and grip would put more forces on the rack and its hydraulics, but the pump and its relief valve should keep things at a steady/adequate pressure and I'd think that excess heat would be introduced by increased flow through the pump, which would only come with back and forth movement of the rack.
#374
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think it'll work ?
![](http://s11.postimg.org/5awwgizcz/image.jpg)
![](http://s22.postimg.org/r1ns630dt/image.jpg)
update- have measured power steering reservoir temps with a $10 digital kitchen thermometer.
was 90°F today and after parking for a few minutes then restarting and having coolant temps over 220° so i know every thing was hot. got home and checked the steering res. and measured less than 180°F. the most i've ever measured over the last month was around 185° F.
so i would say any type of cooler anywhere, and possibly just bypassing the radiator cooler altogether and running no cooler would be beneficial.
![](http://s11.postimg.org/5awwgizcz/image.jpg)
![](http://s22.postimg.org/r1ns630dt/image.jpg)
update- have measured power steering reservoir temps with a $10 digital kitchen thermometer.
was 90°F today and after parking for a few minutes then restarting and having coolant temps over 220° so i know every thing was hot. got home and checked the steering res. and measured less than 180°F. the most i've ever measured over the last month was around 185° F.
so i would say any type of cooler anywhere, and possibly just bypassing the radiator cooler altogether and running no cooler would be beneficial.
Last edited by 1 FMF; 07-04-2013 at 10:11 PM.
#376
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#378
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#379
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it's technically a transmission oil filter, but advertised as a power steering filter,
from autozone, part 2210.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...3909_468355_0_
from autozone, part 2210.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...3909_468355_0_