6spdg37s

iTrader: (1)

so I could run a regular hose from the rack to the cooler?

joecar

From rack's fluid exit -> yes.

joecar

From pump to rack requires high pressure line (which has threaded fittings on each end.

From rack to cooler/reservoir uses regular hose (uses hose clamps at each end).

6spdg37s

iTrader: (1)

I didnt touch the line that goes from the pump to the rack.

I only changed the line from the rack to the cooler, then cooler to the pump.

what size line is it? I used 11/32 but cant find a 11/32 barb connector.

ok thanks will take look next time I get it back on the lift

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure what you'd need a barb connector for. You can cut the P/S return hose short to connect in to the cooler and use a new piece of hose to go from the cooler back up to the pump reservoir.

You could even re-use the old hose from your old return line and cut off what you need. It's just a low pressure hose and unless its cracked and split, there shouldn't be a lot of risk in keeping it in use.

6spdg37s

iTrader: (1)

because where I mounted the cooler the line off the rack doesnt reach

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Where did you put it? Pics?

I'm not a big fan of splices. You might try this trick and attach the new longer hose straight to the barb coming off the rack. https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-fix-pics.html

CoolAid

How I did mine:

Most of the threads I've found in search have the same pictures with the same location idea so I thought I'd throw this one into the mix. You'll need to do an AIR delete to get rid of the AIR pump because that's the spot you'll be using if you go this route.

Cooler is a Hayden OC-1676. I got it off Amazon but sponsor Summit Racing has it too.


Stacked plate cooler. 3/8'' in/out, same as stock line size. Comes with some brackets and hose, hose clamps and nuts/washers/bolts for mounting.

Overall Height (in): 6.000 in.
Overall Width (in): 11.000 in.
Overall Thickness (in): 0.750 in.
Cooler Construction: Plate
Cooler Material: Steel
Inlet Size: 3/8 in.
Inlet Attachment: Hose barb
Outlet Size: 3/8 in.
Outlet Attachment: Hose barb

I used a 3/8 barb fitting to connect one line to a stock line but used the supplied hose from the kit to do the other line straight to the pump. I bought two 3/8 barb fittings but only used one, but if you suxxorz at routing you might need two. Or just buy more 3/8'' fuel line and do a new run. Either way the kit comes with 4 good hose clamps.

Hose barb:


This isn't intended to be a write-up, but grab some ideas for mounting from the pics. The area probably isn't the most blustery area for air flow either, but its better than the stock PS cooler and its up out of the way of debris and doesn't require cutting the stock air dam or interfering with radiator flow.

Removed AIR pump access door by taking out two screws and cutting with utility knife along the "hinged" edge. Also, I bent one of the brackets and cut the excess off and used a stock hole for the bottom cooler mount.



Another pic looking up from the bottom of the AIR pump access area:



Pic of the top mounting. Used a straight bracket to near the center of the cooler then attached it to another bent and cut bracket:



Top mount pic again:



Used stock holes and kit brackets/bolts/clamps. Reuse old clamps or use new ones to the pump. If you do a short run of hose from the far fender side of the cooler to the stock cooler feed line with a barb, you'll have enough hose left over to do a run from the passenger side cooler fitting direct to the PS pump return inlet on the bottom. Just unclip the fuse box holder thing on the fender side and flip it up for easier access to the top of the AIR pump area. Make sure to zip tie all your routed hose AWAY and OFF of sharp corners and edges so vibrations don't damage the hose. This is also a good time to flush/change PS fluid. Cheers foos and foo-ettes.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I just got back from the hospital. They had to transport me after I started having convulsions upon seeing the DeCarbon. ^


How are you going to get air flow over that cooler, which requires airflow to work?

CoolAid

I don't need a direct path or a big vent leading to it. There's plenty of air that finds its way up there to "cool" something that doesn't get very hot to begin with since I don't auto X the car.

The big cooling area, long travel and extra capacity of the system surely runs significantly cooler than the stock warmer even without a direct tornado of wind blowing over it.

joecar

lol

You still should use a longer hose rather than a hose barb to join two hoses.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I don't disagree ideally, but in situations where a complete hose replacement isn't simple (due to special fittings/bends/formations/etc. in an existing line) the barb pictured above, especially when clamped with FI style clamps, will last a very long time. I have that exact sort of barb in one of my trans cooler lines, it's been there since 2005 without even the slightest sign of failure.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

He's not, it won't cool worth a F*ck there. I know this for a FACT. Not trying to down the guy but there is no airflow inside the bumper.

CoolAid

You're right. If I taped a leaf by the edge up there and mounted a go pro, you should see the leaf sit completely still and not even the slightest flap would happen. There's no way air can get up into a big *** hole in the bottom of the front of a car at speed.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

On an fbody, no it wont. The leaf will flutter or swirl around, and that's it. It takes air movement, pressure if you will to get air to pass through a cooler. This is the entire reason we have 1. radiator fans, and 2. dedicated ducting and air channeling for at speed air recovery. I'm not cutting you down bud, but I have the same type cooler in my bumper. I had to add a fan to it because it just wasn't working near as efficiently as it was laying against a super hot condenser. Outta tell you something there.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The problem isn't with air getting up there but the design of the cooler.

The one you have has little fins, which require air to be rammed over them or drawn over them with a fan to do anything. The passive coolers that can just sit in space and work have really large fins, like the frame rail coolers or the fins you'd see on something like an electric baseboard heater, etc.

Your cooler won't hurt anything but in order for it to noticeably bring down the temperature, you'd probably need to add a fan.


You must also have really nice roads where you live to still be running the stock shock absorbers. I am envious of that. (They didn't last too long where I lived.)

CoolAid

The fan A4 mentioned is a good idea if one is worried about peak cooler efficiency. I'll add one if I ever notice trouble, but my car is just a 34 mile round trip DD on nothing but straight roads. I'm running very heat resistant Dex VI in the PS and still have bright red and new smelling results after 5k miles like this. Again, the length of the run, capacity, and lack of being warmed by the coolant is doing a better job than it was even if it's not a ZOMG SCCA efficient setup. Down here in AZ with extreme ambient temps and pure straight line racing, I'm much more concerned with peak radiator efficiency which is why I didn't want to hack the air dam or block any radiator surface.

As far as the shocks, it's a 79k mile car and still feels as agile as I assume a new catfish would. My last DDs have been a 2500HD and a Corvette and I'm a class 8 heavy truck CDL operator by trade so I probably am not as sensitive as most to NVH and harsh ride. After driving around dump trucks and heavy equipment all day a deCarbon SS Camaro with 79k miles is like driving an XTS.

Firebrian

I took out my PS cooler last month. Now nothing. So your set up is certainly better than my set up for summer driving. As for DeCarbons, I still have the 4 original 1998 ones on my car. I drove my other DD Z28 to 115K miles on the orig DeCarbons. I thought it rode nice actually....lol. Yes, we have some pretty nice roads up this way.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I did real-world testing a couple years back and posted the results in this thread, it's really no big deal to have no cooler for non-competition purposes in ambient temps of ~85°F or less. The extreme southern and southwestern owners may find more issues with normal street driving since ambient temps there often hit 100-115°F, but for the rest of the country I would only worry about this if the car is used for road race/auto-X type competition.

Furthermore, if you change the fluid every so often then the cooler becomes even less important as this averts the compounding heat related deterioration of aged fluid.

I still have the stock DeCarbons on my '98 as well. The car isn't driven often enough for me to care to change them and, over the years, they haven't really gotten any worse than when they were new. A friend used to have a WS6 Formula with Bilsteins that rode really well, that's what I would go with if/when ever changing them.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You, sir, do not live in an area where the roads are very forgiving!

I understand the rubber in the shock seals doesn't have much of a shelf life beyond 10 years. (I also always have a tough time testing our shocks because the springs are so tight.) I never knew how weak my original shocks were until I got new ones on the car.

... Come to think about it, my replacement Bilsteins are probably now shot, as well. (I spun my car last winter when my tires didn't plant well when I hit an icy bridge.)