Stuck - Literally
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On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 156
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From: Cincinnati OH
Stuck - Literally So I'm in kind of a pickle and I need some advice. Bear with me I'm going to be a little long winded.
My car is a 98 z28 and after 130k miles the front end is badly in need of a re fresh. The ball joints all need to be replaced and the bushings in the LCAs are completely thrashed.
The issue I'm having is that the rear bolt on the drivers side LCA is just plain stuck. The nut came off with no problems but the bolt is melded to the frame or something - it just won't come out.
I've tried torching the bracket and wailing on it with a hammer. Got nowhere.
I coated it in PB blaster and wailed on it with a hammer. Got Nowhere.
I coated it in PB blaster and locked two nuts together and cranked on it with a 3 foot long breaker bar. Got nowhere.
I even coated it in more PB blaster and jacked the car up with a jack under the stuck bolt and left it go over night. That didn't do anything either.
Do I have any other options other that cutting it out? I have an air saw and a sawz-all but I'm not sure I can get the blade in far enough to cut through the bolt without messing up the bracket. How easily can I screw things up unbolting the K-Member and dropping the whole engine out of the car a few inches so that I can get a grinder onto the top of the bolt?
My car is a 98 z28 and after 130k miles the front end is badly in need of a re fresh. The ball joints all need to be replaced and the bushings in the LCAs are completely thrashed.
The issue I'm having is that the rear bolt on the drivers side LCA is just plain stuck. The nut came off with no problems but the bolt is melded to the frame or something - it just won't come out.
I've tried torching the bracket and wailing on it with a hammer. Got nowhere.
I coated it in PB blaster and wailed on it with a hammer. Got Nowhere.
I coated it in PB blaster and locked two nuts together and cranked on it with a 3 foot long breaker bar. Got nowhere.
I even coated it in more PB blaster and jacked the car up with a jack under the stuck bolt and left it go over night. That didn't do anything either.
Do I have any other options other that cutting it out? I have an air saw and a sawz-all but I'm not sure I can get the blade in far enough to cut through the bolt without messing up the bracket. How easily can I screw things up unbolting the K-Member and dropping the whole engine out of the car a few inches so that I can get a grinder onto the top of the bolt?
Seems you tried everything I would, but I would definetely see if someone has another idea before you drop the motor just for a little bolt. There has to be a better way. Imo
Could you use an air chisle ( I dont think thats how you spell that,lol) to knock the head off?
Could you use an air chisle ( I dont think thats how you spell that,lol) to knock the head off?
Last edited by lusting4ls1; Jan 22, 2011 at 12:58 PM. Reason: ...
Banned
Joined: Oct 2009
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Its easily removed using Pb blaster, 1st take a propane torch and carefully heat the exposed parts of the bolt up BUT NOT RED SMOKING HOT just gently heat it up and let it cool back down. Do this 5 or 6 times until its good and heat cycled. Then heat it back up but don't let it cool off and hit it with the PB blaster. BE SURE THE TORCH IS OFF and its not red hot when you do this. You just want enough heat in it to draw the Blaster in...then tap on the bolt until it starts to move. I've removed MANY bolts this way without causing damage to anything. This method also works great on the barke caliper pins, I've removed and saved everyone that was rusted in solid.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 156
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From: Cincinnati OH
Its easily removed using Pb blaster, 1st take a propane torch and carefully heat the exposed parts of the bolt up BUT NOT RED SMOKING HOT just gently heat it up and let it cool back down. Do this 5 or 6 times until its good and heat cycled. Then heat it back up but don't let it cool off and hit it with the PB blaster. BE SURE THE TORCH IS OFF and its not red hot when you do this. You just want enough heat in it to draw the Blaster in...then tap on the bolt until it starts to move. I've removed MANY bolts this way without causing damage to anything. This method also works great on the barke caliper pins, I've removed and saved everyone that was rusted in solid.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 1
From: Elgin, Il
Glad to hear it, I had a similar issue those LCA bolts get siezed to the inner sleeve of the bushing and its a PITA (to say the least) but enough heat, PB, and curse words usually loosens 'em up.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati OH
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