How to fix no start/security light without vats bypass
#1
Teching In
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How to fix no start/security light without vats bypass
I'm trying to figure out how to correctly fix this problem, no start and security light without doing the vats bypass. I tried some searching but almost everything is for the bypass. In order to fix this "correctly" what is needed? Is a new ignition cylinder and key needed? Is there a seperate vats module that needs replaced or only the ignition cylinder? On my 00 ws6 intermittently the security light will come on and not let me start it for 5 minutes. I wait and retry and it works so I'm just looking for the correct way to fix this without the bypass method. My mom has an 01 ws6 that starts every time but the security light stays on...weird. But if anyone could lead me in the right direction that would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
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My very basic understanding is that you need to replace the key cylinder.
By waiting the 5-10 mins, you're allowing VATS to reset, and then you're lucky that at that time, it functions and properly "reads" your key. It'll eventually stop working. It's a hardware issue.
The reason your mom's stays on is that the system is probably dead. If she replaces her battery or otherwise kills the constant power to the car, she's probably going to be SOL and it won't start.
The system is set such that if VATS is "broken" while the vehicle is running, the system goes into a safe mode of sorts and recognizes that it's got an issue - it disables itself and illuminates the idiot light. The problem is, if the hardware is now completely non-functional (which, the light in your mom's is on all the time, so it probably is permanently broken) when the constant power is cut, the vehicle "forgets" that it was in safe mode. Broken hardware and a car with amnesia means your car isn't starting again until the hardware is repaired.
That's why the best way to bypass is to measure the resistance while it's still working, and completely cut the "sense" wire, wiring in the matching value resistor on the vehicle side of the cut. The alternative method is just to cut the sense wire with the vehicle running and the system will go into safe mode. The problem, like I said before, is you can't ever lose constant power to the car or it'll revert back to an active state.
Someone tell me if I am wrong, but this is my understanding on VATS.
By waiting the 5-10 mins, you're allowing VATS to reset, and then you're lucky that at that time, it functions and properly "reads" your key. It'll eventually stop working. It's a hardware issue.
The reason your mom's stays on is that the system is probably dead. If she replaces her battery or otherwise kills the constant power to the car, she's probably going to be SOL and it won't start.
The system is set such that if VATS is "broken" while the vehicle is running, the system goes into a safe mode of sorts and recognizes that it's got an issue - it disables itself and illuminates the idiot light. The problem is, if the hardware is now completely non-functional (which, the light in your mom's is on all the time, so it probably is permanently broken) when the constant power is cut, the vehicle "forgets" that it was in safe mode. Broken hardware and a car with amnesia means your car isn't starting again until the hardware is repaired.
That's why the best way to bypass is to measure the resistance while it's still working, and completely cut the "sense" wire, wiring in the matching value resistor on the vehicle side of the cut. The alternative method is just to cut the sense wire with the vehicle running and the system will go into safe mode. The problem, like I said before, is you can't ever lose constant power to the car or it'll revert back to an active state.
Someone tell me if I am wrong, but this is my understanding on VATS.
#3
On The Tree
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i just fixed my ignition cylinder. Ive had the car for 2 years now and driven it 22k miles. The security light was on the ENTIRE time. Never had an issue until recently but once i replaced the ignition cylinder, light went off and has never came back. Save yourself the headache and buy the AC Delco ignition cylinder from the dealer and have a key made. I went to AutoZone and purchased the locksmart one (i think thats the name) and took the blanks to the dealership to have keys made. It was a poorly made ignition on the inside and the key wouldnt work. Ended up taking it back and going to the dealer to get them to order the ignition and match the key. its going to cost around $150 if you install it yourself which I did last week and it wasnt hard at all with the proper tools.
#4
I've taken the old cylinder out and repaired the wiring. I then attach the wire cable itself to the lock cylinder with tape so the wire ends won't stress and break off LIKE THE FACTORY SHOULD HAVE! GM is great at making sure their dealers get plenty of out of warranty work...............
I've fixed ALOT of these over the years.
I've fixed ALOT of these over the years.
#5
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I've taken the old cylinder out and repaired the wiring. I then attach the wire cable itself to the lock cylinder with tape so the wire ends won't stress and break off LIKE THE FACTORY SHOULD HAVE! GM is great at making sure their dealers get plenty of out of warranty work...............
I've fixed ALOT of these over the years.
I've fixed ALOT of these over the years.
#6
Yep it breaks right off at the ignition cylinder. There is nothing attaching the cable to the cylinder, I put a wrap of tape around the two wires attaching them permanently to the cylinder. I've never had one fail after that.
If the wire hasn't failed yet its a easy fix, just pull it apart and carefully tape those two wires to the cylinder.
If the wire hasn't failed yet its a easy fix, just pull it apart and carefully tape those two wires to the cylinder.
#7
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This weekend I will try and see if I can repair the iginition cylinder. Now if the wire you speak of is already damaged are you still able to save it? If I'm able to do this and save myself some money I will. If it does work I will take some pictures incase anyone else is interested. But back to my original question, to anyone else that may know, the ignition cylinder is what would need to be replaced?
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#8
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Yep it breaks right off at the ignition cylinder. There is nothing attaching the cable to the cylinder, I put a wrap of tape around the two wires attaching them permanently to the cylinder. I've never had one fail after that.
If the wire hasn't failed yet its a easy fix, just pull it apart and carefully tape those two wires to the cylinder.
If the wire hasn't failed yet its a easy fix, just pull it apart and carefully tape those two wires to the cylinder.
#9
I'm not going to kid you its not a job for a novice to reattach these wires. Its tedious work, I have a standing magnifying glass I use to work under while I reattach the wires. Then I use one wrap of tape around the wires and cylinder to secure them.
You have to look at the cylinder and where it fits into the column so you get the tape properly positioned so it doesn't interfere with the lock cylinder turning.
Just study it a bit and you'll understand(I hope)
Once you master this you will longer be GMs slave.
You have to look at the cylinder and where it fits into the column so you get the tape properly positioned so it doesn't interfere with the lock cylinder turning.
Just study it a bit and you'll understand(I hope)
Once you master this you will longer be GMs slave.
#10