Whisper

iTrader: (12)

So I've been dealing with a speed variable thump/scrubbing sound (loud enough now where it sounds like the wheels are ******* coming off) for months now. At first I thought it was a badly knotted tire but new rubber up front, an alignment, and tie rod ends later, I'm still in the same boat. I took it to a shop today to have a window motor put in and to diagnose that problem and they told me its the front hub assemblies.

Whats the cheapest course of action here? Is finding a low miles parts car for them viable or should I go ahead and go new? Also, can V6 hub assemblies be used? I've priced them at 125$ on Advanced but then checked Amazon and they have them for 45$-


Is this just a good deal for a lesser known brand or are the Amazon ones the V6 version or something? Thanks for any help.

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I wouldn't bother with used ones. I got a replacement for mine at Advanced Auto and its been fine for 40k miles. I don't know v6 vs v8 models are different.

Don't forget you can get 20% off Advanced Auto by using their website and code.

ajwoodtransport

You went this far with the car....don't skip out now and buy junkyard bearings. You don't want to be screaming down the road at 150mph and lose a wheel. That'd be both a bad day and probably your last one.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Ive got these on my car

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-513090

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

you can get timkens for about $50 cheaper on rockauto, moogs are about the same price

I know some road racers use junkyard hubs, since they go through multiple sets per season and the OEM's are so expensive. I personally would rather run a used wheel hub that's in decent shape over a brand new cheap one (replaced quite a few tahoe/trailblazer hubs and had to redo them within 20k miles). My OEM ones are at 145k and still going strong with an occasional autox. Last time I was at the junkyard I grabbed a spare just in case.

Whisper

iTrader: (12)

Can anyone tell me if those ones I linked from Amazon are equivalent that what comes stock? Or are they the V6 version or something? Im not getting the 75$ price difference between them and Advanced's Moog's.

RockinWs6

There is no difference v6 v8 cars all get the same hub.

ajwoodtransport

I agree with not buying the cheap ones....they sometimes don't last worth crap, but I wouldn't go the junkyard route either. There's a reason why they keep having to replace them, versus just every now and then. You never know if that used hub has been sitting in the same position for the last 5 years, been underwater, driven on the tracks, gone off roading, had screwed up camber or toe angles, and, or if they were used when they were put on the car. You just put two new tires on, put new tie rods on, and got an alignment....nows not the time to take a chance and screw it all up on subpar hubs.

Whisper

iTrader: (12)

I sincerely appreciate the feedback. It doesn't help that when researching that manufacturer, one of the first threads that pops up is this one:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...r-lawsuit.html

Even still with money being tight currently a 75$ difference per hub is awfully damn tempting even if they do only last 40k instead of another brand's 100k+. I haven't made my mind up yet.

Guitar

iTrader: (9)

Do it right the first time. Guy who just redid his LT1 car went with Timken, they looked nice on his car and when I looked them up on Amazon.


https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...lled-pics.html

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

your cheapest course of action would be to replace them yourself if you have the tools. what you are replacing is the front wheel bearing hub assembly and it comes with an integrated ABS sensor and wire. check out rockauto, your best bet is to compare prices including shipping from rock versus autozone, napa, or whatever chain is near you and what warranty to get.
SKF is ok but timken and Moog/national will be the best and also most expensive. on rockauto, the ones like value pro that are less than $50, don't buy those kind. I would not buy that dura one on amazon for $40. the autozone duralast one seems to have the same part # as timken so i would consider that, and at $90 vs around $140 for the timken that's pretty good. the tradeoff seems to be only a 1yr warranty on the duralast vs 3 year on the timken from autozone, part 513090. remember anything you buy mail order you really don't have a warranty because of shipping costs.

on

ghardester

Replacing these front hub/wheel bearings is a fairly simple plug-and-play type of repair.

Remove wheel, remove brake caliper and disk, unbolt hub assembly, install new one. There is a ABS wheel speed sensor to unplug. Nothing very complicated at all. It is 4 bolts, the unit is all sealed, there is no messing with re-packing with grease.

It is a little more work than changing a tire, but not much.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

^^

very true. The hardest part is knocking them off the spindle. I found it easier to hit it with a hammer with little force, but many times really fast. Go to town with PB blaster too. Just be careful with the caliper.

ajwoodtransport

I hear ya....I'm just a truck driver so I know all about tight budgets, but at the same time because I'm a truck driver I get to repair wheel seals and bearings, mess with warranties, deal with liability, shell out $8-15k a year on maintenance, and drive by cars on the side of the road with a missing wheel all the time so on certain critical components such as tires, wheel assemblies, steering, and brakes, I'm kinda ****. In the end just do the best you can and I'm sure you'll do fine....good luck .

GMRL

I work at a full service shop, and we replace hubs on pretty much every car that comes with them. My experience is that name brand, more expensive stuff does last longer.
White box(made in china) generic parts are pretty cheap, but we do see a lot of comebacks, sometimes in as little as 5k miles. But most parts stores carry lifetime warranty on these parts. So you just take it back and get a new one.
Keep the receipt.