headlight actuator relay module
headlight actuator relay module I was driving my t/a the other night and my headlights would not go up. I have a 2000 pontiac t/a where the lights come on automatically at night when you release the emergency brake.My friend has the same year car and it doesn't have that feature.I turned the ignition off and on a couple of times and they went up.
I changed the module with my spare one and it worked for a couple of weeks.
The other night I went to the store and the same thing happened again.After turning the ignition off and on and re-setting the pcm they would not come up again.I changed the relay module to my other one I had in there before and they worked again.So what's the deal? Do those modules overheat after lots of use or what?What about the daytime running module p/n 10407669. Does my car have an extra sensor?Is there something that I need to check?
I changed the module with my spare one and it worked for a couple of weeks.
The other night I went to the store and the same thing happened again.After turning the ignition off and on and re-setting the pcm they would not come up again.I changed the relay module to my other one I had in there before and they worked again.So what's the deal? Do those modules overheat after lots of use or what?What about the daytime running module p/n 10407669. Does my car have an extra sensor?Is there something that I need to check?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Unless someone has modified the car, only Canadian Firebirds have automatic headlights (Camaros have them in both Canada and the US). It's an easy modification since everything is already there except for the light sensor. Simply replacing the jumper wire with a light sensor (which mounts in the dash next to the defroster vent) is all that's required to to enable automatic headlights.
Which relay module are you changing? Do the lights work when you turn them on manually with the switch? That would seem to indicate a problem with the sensor.
Which relay module are you changing? Do the lights work when you turn them on manually with the switch? That would seem to indicate a problem with the sensor.
The headlight actuator relay module is under the hood next to the forward fuse/relay case on the passenger side.When I have the problem the lights are on but the headlamps won't open up.Yes this is a canada car.It also has a block heater.Also when it does this I can't use the switch on the left of the dash to get the pop up headlights to go up.I assume it is not the light sensor that is the problem.
Has anybody cut open the module to check out the parts inside.What does the daytime running module have to do with all this stuff?Behind the radio.
Has anybody cut open the module to check out the parts inside.What does the daytime running module have to do with all this stuff?Behind the radio.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The Headlamp Opening Door Actuating Control Module is solid state and has no user replaceable parts (according to GM - it's always possible that some internal components may be available online somewhere).
You are correct that it is unlikely to be the sensor if even the switch won't make them work.
The DRL module controls daytime running lights and automatic headlights. It consists of a solid state controller and several internal relays. The controller determines when to activate the DRLs based on inputs such as parking brake, headlights and turn signals. It also determines when to activate the automatic headlights based on the light sensor and position of the headlight switch.
It appears that you're going to have to do some diagnostic tests using a test light or multimeter when it happen again. Check for power on both orange wires at the headlight door module (that comes from the left and right headlight door fuses in the junction box under the hood). Check for power on the yellow wire (that is the headlight on signal from the switch or DRL module). Then check for power output to the headlight motors - light green and light blue when opening, dark green and dark blue when closing. If you have input power but not output power then the module is bad. If you have both input and output power then the door motors are bad. If you don't have input power then go to the DRL module and start testing it.
You are correct that it is unlikely to be the sensor if even the switch won't make them work.
The DRL module controls daytime running lights and automatic headlights. It consists of a solid state controller and several internal relays. The controller determines when to activate the DRLs based on inputs such as parking brake, headlights and turn signals. It also determines when to activate the automatic headlights based on the light sensor and position of the headlight switch.
It appears that you're going to have to do some diagnostic tests using a test light or multimeter when it happen again. Check for power on both orange wires at the headlight door module (that comes from the left and right headlight door fuses in the junction box under the hood). Check for power on the yellow wire (that is the headlight on signal from the switch or DRL module). Then check for power output to the headlight motors - light green and light blue when opening, dark green and dark blue when closing. If you have input power but not output power then the module is bad. If you have both input and output power then the door motors are bad. If you don't have input power then go to the DRL module and start testing it.
The modules have the infamous "cold solder joint" problem that other PCB's on the car (and may other cars of various vintages) have. This issue has been plaguing a number of us for a while.
Start reading in the headlight thread from this post forward and you can read about the fix: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...l#post19594997
All you have to do is open the module, melt the solder joints (maybe adding some solder), and then seal the module back up.
Start reading in the headlight thread from this post forward and you can read about the fix: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...l#post19594997
All you have to do is open the module, melt the solder joints (maybe adding some solder), and then seal the module back up.
Your problem is likely on the other side, where the 5-pin and 4-pin black terminal bars solder into the board. If you put a magnifying glass to the solder joints, you may be able to see cracks, particularly if you wiggle the pins.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Why are you "rebuilding" it? If the board works, then all the components should be fine. (Most of those resistors and capacitors are there just to control the chip and regulator functions.) If the board is working intermittently, then you should just have bad solder joints.
Maybe that relay is sticking, or something like that, but that would be really odd.
Maybe that relay is sticking, or something like that, but that would be really odd.