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So the previous owner didn't tell me what oil and weight he was running. It only has when he changed it. For my piece of mind I want to go ahead and swap it out. Right now the oil pressure when it is hot is 20 psi and going down the road its 40 psi. I don't track the car, but I will spin the tires and run through the gears from time to time.
My questions are since its been 14 years since I have had a LS F body:
Weight Oil Brand? Redline, Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil other?
What Weight?
What Filter? I remember running a truck wix back then. Is that still the filter of choice or have we moved on to something better?
I always recommend M1 0W40 for a stock bottom end LS1, but you have a non-stock bottom end so I don't know what sort of clearances it has and/or what the builder recommends. But, since you know it's a Texas Speed engine, my suggestion would be to ask them what they normally recommend for this engine. It might want a different grade than would be ideal for stock.
I always recommend M1 0W40 for a stock bottom end LS1, but you have a non-stock bottom end so I don't know what sort of clearances it has and/or what the builder recommends. But, since you know it's a Texas Speed engine, my suggestion would be to ask them what they normally recommend for this engine. It might want a different grade than would be ideal for stock.
True, I will just call them. It is probably better if I do. I lost the guys number that I got it from. He was 83 years old. He took the car to his builder and told them what he wanted done and they had it done. I just a have a folder full of receipts on the build and a oriley oil change sticker with nothing but when the oil was changed lol.
I use M1 10W-40, I also live in a warm climate, I have a stock LS1 engine, and I have been using that weight oil for over 20 years. I use 1/2 quart of oil every 3k miles.
Thats great info right there! Thank you! I was told 10w40 or 15w50 Mobil 1. I ran 15w50 in my 347 strokers back when I was building foxbodies so I am kinda leaning towards that. Ive kind of been out of the loop the last couple of days dealing with some family stuff.
Thats great info right there! Thank you! I was told 10w40 or 15w50 Mobil 1. I ran 15w50 in my 347 strokers back when I was building foxbodies so I am kinda leaning towards that. Ive kind of been out of the loop the last couple of days dealing with some family stuff.
What’s wild to me about oil is that the “thickness” for a specific weight isn’t the same for every brand. Not all brands of 5w30’s are the same thickness for examle. The oil weights fall within a range and not a specific number.
What’s wild to me about oil is that the “thickness” for a specific weight isn’t the same for every brand. Not all brands of 5w30’s are the same thickness for examle. The oil weights fall within a range and not a specific number.
You are correct. Its crazy that is why you have to constantly check on not only filters because the change the designs, but the oils change as well. That is the biggest mistake a lot of people make.
You are correct. Its crazy that is why you have to constantly check on not only filters because the change the designs, but the oils change as well. That is the biggest mistake a lot of people make.
I’m not sure if I’d get hung up much on synthetic vs non but maybe.. The over the counter “full synthetic” oils that we buy such as Mobil 1 or any other brand you’d see at the store aren’t really full synthetic. They’re made with “crude oil” just like the “conventional oil,” but I think the synthetics have a “better” and more refined base stock. There are real full synthetics but they are expensive “boutique” oils.
When you start comparing flashpoints and cold pour temps the “full synthetics” don’t become the superior oil until the temperatures reach unrealistic degrees on either the hot or cold side of the scale. They say you can go longer between between oil changes with the synthetics such as Mobil, but I dont know if it’s worth paying the extra $ for synthetic if you’re going to change it at 3k-5k miles anyway.
I’m not sure if I’d get hung up much on synthetic vs non but maybe.. The over the counter “full synthetic” oils that we buy such as Mobil 1 or any other brand you’d see at the store aren’t really full synthetic. They’re made with “crude oil” just like the “conventional oil,” but I think the synthetics have a “better” and more refined base stock. There are real full synthetics but they are expensive “boutique” oils.
When you start comparing flashpoints and cold pour temps the “full synthetics” don’t become the superior oil until the temperatures reach unrealistic degrees on either the hot or cold side of the scale. They say you can go longer between between oil changes with the synthetics such as Mobil, but I dont know if it’s worth paying the extra $ for synthetic if you’re going to change it at 3k-5k miles anyway.
I do feel like synthetic oil has a place. To your point back from 01-04 I ran havoline conventional in my first fox and it ran no different and held no different oil pressure then when I moved on to bigger and faster 5 liters and thought they needed mobil 1. Nothing really calls for conventional now. Its all synthetic blend or full synthetic. The truck 5.7 hemi calls for it. My wifes 3.8 jeep calls for it. My Flex calls for synthetic blend, but I don't save that much so it gets Mobil 1. I just went through my owners manual and in 02 the LS1 called for Delco full synthetic either 5w30 or 10w30 it also says you can use oils no higher then 20w50 and as low as 0w30 in extreme cold climates. Pretty wide range there.
I do feel like synthetic oil has a place. To your point back from 01-04 I ran havoline conventional in my first fox and it ran no different and held no different oil pressure then when I moved on to bigger and faster 5 liters and thought they needed mobil 1. Nothing really calls for conventional now. Its all synthetic blend or full synthetic. The truck 5.7 hemi calls for it. My wifes 3.8 jeep calls for it. My Flex calls for synthetic blend, but I don't save that much so it gets Mobil 1. I just went through my owners manual and in 02 the LS1 called for Delco full synthetic either 5w30 or 10w30 it also says you can use oils no higher then 20w50 and as low as 0w30 in extreme cold climates. Pretty wide range there.
I’m fairly certain the auto mfgs are recommending synthetics due to their extend drain intervals. You know, CAFE standards, “The Green Deal,” etc. Basically so they can say you can go 10k miles before changing your oil.
My trucks manual recommends 0w20 but says you can go up to 20w50. They recommended 5w30 for the previous gen which had more or less the same motor. I think the major difference between the two generations is the CAFE standards back then vs now. I have 5w40 in it currently.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; 06-30-2024 at 08:00 PM.
I’m fairly certain the auto mfgs are recommending synthetics due to their extend drain intervals. You know, CAFE standards, “The Green Deal,” etc. Basically so they can say you can go 10k miles before changing your oil.
My trucks manual recommends 0w20 but says you can go up to 20w50. They recommended 5w30 for the previous gen which had more or less the same motor. I think the major difference between the two generations is the CAFE standards back then vs now. I have 5w40 in it currently.
I think its because of the awesome generations that we have now that have no clue about how to maintain a vehicle. Lets give them more time on an oil change since they never change it at 3k miles anyways. I change mine at 5k no matter what. I used to even with synthetic go 3k and pull it. Can they go 10k even 15-20k? Maybe am I willing to chance that as expensive as motors have gotten? Nope. Dodge is very specific and you have to stay within spec with them. Ford and GM seem to give you more options. I have 3 with my Flex. It really likes 5w30. It runs and sounds its smoothest.
Dodge is very specific and you have to stay within spec with them. Ford and GM seem to give you more options. I have 3 with my Flex. It really likes 5w30. It runs and sounds its smoothest.
We have a ‘22 Grand Cherokee that needed a new new passenger side cylinder head and cams at 12k miles. Prior to that expirence I was a little leery about straying away from the oil w/out their seal of approval on the bottle. But I’m pretty sure that they didn’t even do an oil sample like they should have. If they did they might have known that I didn’t have dodge approved oil in there. 😂
The oil recommendations per auto mfgs is a whole other can of worms. But basically the oil brands can either choose to pay or not pay to have their oil tested & licensed by the auto mfgs in order to get the seal of approval. X oil might be better than the recommend oil they just didn’t pay for the licensing. DEXOS is a specification and not an actual ingredient for whatever that’s worth.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; 07-01-2024 at 09:13 PM.
We have a ‘22 Grand Cherokee that needed a new new passenger side cylinder head and cams at 12k miles. Prior to that expirence I was a little leery about straying away from the oil w/out their seal of approval on the bottle. But I’m pretty sure that they didn’t even do an oil sample like they should have. If they did they might have known that I didn’t have dodge approved oil in there. 😂
The oil recommendations per auto mfgs is a whole other can of worms. But basically the oil brands can either choose to pay or not pay to have their oil tested & licensed by the auto mfgs in order to get the seal of approval. X oil might be better than the recommend oil they just didn’t pay for the licensing. DEXOS is a specification and not an actual ingredient for whatever that’s worth.
We got a early 21 so first year L and we have lucked out. Other then her passenger side window switch breaking it has been excellent. I take it in as the recalls come around and most of the major ones it hasn't needed. As far as oil goes in them. I ran Castrol Edge in hers for the first 20k miles and then it started picking up a rattle at start up. I run the puralator boss filter on it. I switched to PUP and added lubegard and it stopped it. We are on oil change number 2 with PUP and it seems fine. With Stellantis the only way they would warranty an oil related issue would be if you took it to the dealership for every oil change. They weasel their way out of most every claim. I am on a Ram forum and you would not believe what guys are going through with these late 4th gen and 5th gen trucks. I take my chance and run good oil with knowing I am screwed most likely for not using my free oil changes lol.