Well I was about to change my spark plugs when I thought i'd just unplug the MAF for the hell of it and see if the hesitation stopped, and sure enough it did. I thought I cleaned it well but maybe it could use it again, that or it's damaged I don't know for sure. So what happens if I drive around with the sensor unplugged? If cleaning it again doesn't fix it I'll just buy a bigger one i guess, but does that mean my slp lid won't fit? I should mention the car wasn't throwing any codes but the MAF could still not work correct?

 

Alright guys.. now before I go and buy a new MAF I want to explain the situation as best I can so I got it right.

The car was hesitating around 2300 rpm's in all gears since I took it out a month ago. Today I unplugged the MAF (which I should have done in the first place) and it was instantly gone. I had cleaned it a couple weeks earlier (assuming it didn't need to be unplugged) and it didn't end up really doing anything. Today when I was looking at it I noticed that all 3 wires are straight with a bend at the bottom (which their supposed to be) but one also had a bend at the top where it just peaks over the horizontal metal connector. I then proceeded to straighten it (figure I had nothing to lose) however it didn't change the hesitation, I then took the car out for a drive and drove it around with the sensor plugged in and unplugged and have confirmed there is no problem with it unplugged.

So I'm assuming this means I will need a new MAF, and if so does it make sense to buy an aftermarket one? (was thinking about doing it anyway) SLP 85mm? And will my SLP lid fit over a larger one? I'm parking the car for now so I can bank some money for it and not have to worry about it being a hassle. What do you all think?

 

Not meaning to hijack, but I have a question. What is the value of unplugging the MAF for diagnostic purposes...is it the open/closed loop deal?

 

short explanation... unplugging maf puts the car into Speed Density mode so its using the other sensors to calculate how much fuel is needed.

It seems as if the MAF is the problem. But it could be an air leak anywhere after the maf that is causing the problem as well. It would go away when the MAF is unplugged because the call will see the leak as normal incoming air when its in speed density mode (MAF unplugged). It depends on the car but some cars end up throwing the tune way off by doing a larger MAF so I'd think twice about getting a larger maf though unless you are going to retune afterwards.

 

Another thing to try - if you have "nothing to loose." (I'd only recommend this as a last resort.)

You can take out the four bolts holding the unit together to expose the wires. With a magnifying glass, you might try cleaning the elements (gently) with MAF cleaner and a Q-Tip. I had some really hard-to-get-off build-up on mine and this solved the hesitation problem for me.

 

Keep in mind i bent one of them back so it's probably muffed either way. So your saying getting an slp 85mm might be bad idea? I've never had a tune and I have to drive about 2 hours to get one. My plan was to wait till I had my gears and full exhaust and THEN tune it. (not to mention 100's of dollars for all)

 

So....O2 sensors, for example, could be diagnosed as "bad" if you unplugged the MAF and certain "hesitation" still remained?

 

Where can I get a oem replacement MAF? I'm not in the mood to deal with a bigger one because I'm not ready for a tune yet.

 

I have an SLP MAF and I think it is giving me the similar problem. You can buy cheap stock MAF on the forum usually.

 

Heck I bought an 85mm truck MAF on ebay for $27 in April.

 

Gmpartsdirect.com has them for about $145 or something. Normally, a stock MAF would run you $200 to $300 at the parts store.

Also, I wouldn't bother trying to buy a used one because, well, it's a used MAF...

 

yea but if you just unplug the maf would it not go in to open lope and ingnore the maf and other stuff like 02 sensors? so could it not also be other stuff?