bad maf
The car was hesitating around 2300 rpm's in all gears since I took it out a month ago. Today I unplugged the MAF (which I should have done in the first place) and it was instantly gone. I had cleaned it a couple weeks earlier (assuming it didn't need to be unplugged) and it didn't end up really doing anything. Today when I was looking at it I noticed that all 3 wires are straight with a bend at the bottom (which their supposed to be) but one also had a bend at the top where it just peaks over the horizontal metal connector. I then proceeded to straighten it (figure I had nothing to lose) however it didn't change the hesitation, I then took the car out for a drive and drove it around with the sensor plugged in and unplugged and have confirmed there is no problem with it unplugged.
So I'm assuming this means I will need a new MAF, and if so does it make sense to buy an aftermarket one? (was thinking about doing it anyway) SLP 85mm? And will my SLP lid fit over a larger one? I'm parking the car for now so I can bank some money for it and not have to worry about it being a hassle. What do you all think?
It seems as if the MAF is the problem. But it could be an air leak anywhere after the maf that is causing the problem as well. It would go away when the MAF is unplugged because the call will see the leak as normal incoming air when its in speed density mode (MAF unplugged). It depends on the car but some cars end up throwing the tune way off by doing a larger MAF so I'd think twice about getting a larger maf though unless you are going to retune afterwards.
You can take out the four bolts holding the unit together to expose the wires. With a magnifying glass, you might try cleaning the elements (gently) with MAF cleaner and a Q-Tip. I had some really hard-to-get-off build-up on mine and this solved the hesitation problem for me.
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Also, I wouldn't bother trying to buy a used one because, well, it's a used MAF...









