Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

For my current winter mods, I'm doing a cam, pulley and EWP swap-out.

I want to install to my ASP pulley, but from what I've read, you should use a longer bolt to get it in? Is this a GM bolt?

If so, do you guys have a part number?

Thanks,

Bill

2002SilverWS-6

iTrader: (4)

I went to a local autoparts store to get mine. The stock bolt measures M16x2.0x103mm so just get a bolt that measures M16x2.0x120mm and get a big enough washer for the new bolt so that you can press the new pulley on.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Don't use a long bolt, you don't need to. You can tap the pulley on far enough with a hammer to use the stock bolt. If you use a long bolt, you run the risk of breaking the bolt off inside the crank! Better yet, try boiling the pulley in a large pot first and it should slip right on. This method was just sugested by NoCatz.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Lots of info in this recent thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/117775-what-size-stock-crank-bolt.html

2002SilverWS-6

iTrader: (4)

Your right. Actually you only need the long bolt to help seat the stock pulley if you decide to put it back on. But it does help to use a longer bolt when taking off the stock pulley also. You can wind it down snug and still leave room for the stock pulley to slide off the crank snout and you don't have to woory about pulling the threads out of the crank. The ASP pulley goes on without difficulty unlike the stock pulley for whatever reason.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I use a homemaded bolt to PRESS not pull, hope you can understand my post below

REmove the small 2 in round plug on bottom of bellhouseing insert a BIg screw driver or pry bar into the teeth of fly wheel ( you will need a freind to help) may need to insert one behind the flap behind the starter also >>>( NO need to remove the starter) OR you may order the special tool from GM which will bolt to block which will hold the fly wheel
get a big peice of pipe to use as cheater on on ratchet or breaker bar ( some say bind bar and bump starter to loose crank bolt ( I WOULD NEVER DO THIS )
Will need a 3 leg puller that will pull from the inside ( never from outside ) of stock pulley (may rent from local past supplier )
>>>when ready to re install I get two new crank bolts from dealer and weld a 5/8 x 4 in bolt to head of one ,
( will need to grind down the washer on stock bolt so that it will fit threw the pulley) screw the welded crank bolt in to crank slide a socket( one that will just fit inside the pulley- to use as a guide to start pulley stright ) over the welded 5/8 bolt ,use this to pull the puller back on this way you are not puting much strain on the threads inside the crank
Lubricate and mount the ASP pulley onto the snout. You should be able to press it on just far enuff to allow the STOCK crank bolt to begin threading. Once it is threaded, tighten it to 240 ft. lbs. or until it is completely seated on the crank snout. Afterwards, REMOVE THE STOCK BOLT and replace it with the NEW CRANK BOLT. You will tighten the NEW bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an additonal 120 degrees.
hope this helps Johnny
ps:: I install a new seal any time I remove a pulley($10.00 and 10 minutes now is better than haveing a leak and haveing to remve pulley again

may make a tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place
PS: THE DRAWING DOES NOT SHOW UP CORRECT ,it should be about 2 in wide all the way down

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Gimp98TNT

iTrader: (21)

McMaster-Carr has them, Along with just about anything else you can imagine.

www.mcmaster.com

JohnnyStorm

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Gimp that was a very good lead!