The fix for my endless alternator failure's
#344
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
GM only sells reman alts.....and i have never seen a P/N on a alt....if you get a rebuild you are gambling on the quality of it......which is why it is always good to get the junkyard alts.....they are cheap and the AD244 seems to last a lot longer than the CS130
Last edited by sjsingle1; 07-27-2011 at 11:41 PM.
#346
Thanks OP.... I have been chasing a problem all week with my car. ever since I got the AC fixed and it got hot outside, my car has not ran right; I even posted a question in the PCM section. My tune was all over the place and I was doing nothing but chase ghost. I saw this thread last night and could not wait to try it out. I did the swap today and "bingo" all the issues went away. Big cam, 106 deg out side, and cold AC sitting still in gear.
Haha, they just keep coming!
Good to hear man
#347
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My small contribution to this thread:
If you're calling a wrecking yard that uses "Hollander Interchange" type software (many/most of them do)...just ask for this #
601-949 (145 amp, kg3 option)
It might make it a little easier for ya.
If you're calling a wrecking yard that uses "Hollander Interchange" type software (many/most of them do)...just ask for this #
601-949 (145 amp, kg3 option)
It might make it a little easier for ya.
#350
TECH Addict
iTrader: (6)
I'll share my story on this great thread since I read all the pages and my story might help some plp;
I had my stock alternator rebuilt to 240amp locally, held up alright for a while(1-2 short summer)...but the old voltage drop at WOT trouble finally came back
The voltage is always high at idle or at cruising under 2500rpm on highway, but gets in the red around 10amp very fast when going at WOT for a full gear. Back at idle or below 2000rpm, it gets back slowly at 12.8-13.2
So I redid my battery's positive pole connection since it was a bit of a mess(I already did the big 3 mod, but not completly, as I found out..). The problem is still there, but the voltage gets back a tad faster to 13 than before on idle.
So I decided to recheck fuse and grounds and I found something; the ground from the engine mount to chassi is kinda old and crappy looking. I shake it a bit and it gets loose fast! I pull on it a bit harder and snap! It was so weak that it was barely holding! So I unbolt the other end bolted to chassis and I notice that its almost cut completly; it holds by 1mm on the metal ring!
So I forgot to redo the engine to chassis wire when doing the big 3 mod. So I finished the job by I tooking the easiest way; connect a huge 4gauge wire from chassis stock location to the alternator rack bolt.
Started the car and the voltage is sitting at a solid 14 at least, which it never ever did since I own this car(6years!). I'll do a road test tomorrow cause the neighboors will kill me if I continu to work/start/test drive this late!! lol
update to come... I hope for the best!
I had my stock alternator rebuilt to 240amp locally, held up alright for a while(1-2 short summer)...but the old voltage drop at WOT trouble finally came back
The voltage is always high at idle or at cruising under 2500rpm on highway, but gets in the red around 10amp very fast when going at WOT for a full gear. Back at idle or below 2000rpm, it gets back slowly at 12.8-13.2
So I redid my battery's positive pole connection since it was a bit of a mess(I already did the big 3 mod, but not completly, as I found out..). The problem is still there, but the voltage gets back a tad faster to 13 than before on idle.
So I decided to recheck fuse and grounds and I found something; the ground from the engine mount to chassi is kinda old and crappy looking. I shake it a bit and it gets loose fast! I pull on it a bit harder and snap! It was so weak that it was barely holding! So I unbolt the other end bolted to chassis and I notice that its almost cut completly; it holds by 1mm on the metal ring!
So I forgot to redo the engine to chassis wire when doing the big 3 mod. So I finished the job by I tooking the easiest way; connect a huge 4gauge wire from chassis stock location to the alternator rack bolt.
Started the car and the voltage is sitting at a solid 14 at least, which it never ever did since I own this car(6years!). I'll do a road test tomorrow cause the neighboors will kill me if I continu to work/start/test drive this late!! lol
update to come... I hope for the best!
#351
[QUOTE=Johnnystock;15273669]I'll share my story on this great thread since I read all the pages and my story might help some plp;
I
So I decided to recheck fuse and grounds and I found something; the ground from the engine mount to chassi is kinda old and crappy looking. I shake it a bit and it gets loose fast! I pull on it a bit harder and snap! It was so weak that it was barely holding! So I unbolt the other end bolted to chassis and I notice that its almost cut completly; it holds by 1mm on the metal ring!
So I forgot to redo the engine to chassis wire when doing the big 3 mod. So I finished the job by I tooking the easiest way; connect a huge 4gauge wire from chassis stock location to the alternator rack bolt.
How do you change this connection? I cant access the engine gnd since the area is so tight. I have an 87 TA.
Thanks
I
So I decided to recheck fuse and grounds and I found something; the ground from the engine mount to chassi is kinda old and crappy looking. I shake it a bit and it gets loose fast! I pull on it a bit harder and snap! It was so weak that it was barely holding! So I unbolt the other end bolted to chassis and I notice that its almost cut completly; it holds by 1mm on the metal ring!
So I forgot to redo the engine to chassis wire when doing the big 3 mod. So I finished the job by I tooking the easiest way; connect a huge 4gauge wire from chassis stock location to the alternator rack bolt.
How do you change this connection? I cant access the engine gnd since the area is so tight. I have an 87 TA.
Thanks
#357
LOL
New? As in new from the parts store? If so that may be the problem, I went through nearly 10 parts store alternators, yes they were just the regular 105 amp ones but still they were complete ****. I bought a 145 amp truck alternator from the junkyard for $43.30, I got mine from LKQ.
#358
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
ad244 for $45.+ $5. core + tax
I have a chance to obtain a ad244 for $45.+ $5. core + tax
alt. came off an 02 subruban w/ 120K miles man said on the phone it did'nt have grease or oil on it and it was'nt all corredored.
Edit: I did'nt ask, however the man said when you take this alt. to auto zone for a test they will tell you to replace it it's bad that's what they tell everyone. he also said the alt was working fine when he took it off.
?do's autozone rig there tests.
do'es this alt. have too many miles?
there will be a 30 day guantee however I may wait longer than that to put it on due to the heat outside.
I have found this alt. not easy to obtain and when available the prices usalley start around $80.+
should I purchase this atl.?
Thanks
alt. came off an 02 subruban w/ 120K miles man said on the phone it did'nt have grease or oil on it and it was'nt all corredored.
Edit: I did'nt ask, however the man said when you take this alt. to auto zone for a test they will tell you to replace it it's bad that's what they tell everyone. he also said the alt was working fine when he took it off.
?do's autozone rig there tests.
do'es this alt. have too many miles?
there will be a 30 day guantee however I may wait longer than that to put it on due to the heat outside.
I have found this alt. not easy to obtain and when available the prices usalley start around $80.+
should I purchase this atl.?
Thanks
Last edited by badmfkr; 08-19-2011 at 09:57 AM.
#360
I had the alt tested at autozone it did'nt charge at the ad244 maxium of 14.9V
it was like 14.1V
however it was noisy girl said it was probably worn bearings
did I get boned on this 120K mile alt.
maybe I should tell the seller I installed it and it was real noisy so please exchange it?
Edit my electric cooling fans hardly ever come on unless I get stuck in a major traffic jam like yesterday dam those fans suck up alot of charging power about another 1V less charging.
Thanks
it was like 14.1V
however it was noisy girl said it was probably worn bearings
did I get boned on this 120K mile alt.
maybe I should tell the seller I installed it and it was real noisy so please exchange it?
Edit my electric cooling fans hardly ever come on unless I get stuck in a major traffic jam like yesterday dam those fans suck up alot of charging power about another 1V less charging.
Thanks
My stock camaro alt had 160 or so thousand miles and the bearings were fine, 120k isn't too bad, would prefer lower mileage but you could also take that alternator to a repair shop and have them replace the bearings for pretty cheap.
And yes the fans use a LOT of amperage!