What Underdrive Pulley for an LS1?
What Underdrive Pulley for an LS1? I am trying to find the best underdrive pulley for my 2001 SS Camaro. I was thinking either "ASP Underdrive Pulley (SFI Approved) 25% Underdrive LS1 F-Body Street/Strip" or "SLP Harmonic Balancer / Underdrive Pulley, 1998-02 LS1 Camaro / Firebird w/Bolt"
Any problems I would encounter with this installation?
Any problems I would encounter with this installation?
slp and powerbond are the same pulley and will work well. Theres one brand thats around $400 thats supposed to be a bit better but isnt worth twice as much to me.
basically they all work, I got a slp one im going to get put on when I do a lot of other stuff
Theres other threads on this if you look, I based mine off of them. Some people have a bit of trouble getting them on, some dont from what ive read.
Look in the external section, this is a bolt on so the thread might be moved
basically they all work, I got a slp one im going to get put on when I do a lot of other stuff
Theres other threads on this if you look, I based mine off of them. Some people have a bit of trouble getting them on, some dont from what ive read.
Look in the external section, this is a bolt on so the thread might be moved
Why do you want an under drive pulley.
When you look at it is it worth the money for the HP gains.
Most UD pullies are around $300 or so dollars for a few HP maybe 7rwhp.
It will make your water pump run slower and thus your fans will be running constantly specially in stop and go traffic.
I can keep going if you want. Alone reason 1 should be enough to deter you.
They make really good paper weights and that's it.
Hell get a bigger and better maf, or get a good TB and don't forget you are going to have to do the alternator pulley also.
When you look at it is it worth the money for the HP gains.
Most UD pullies are around $300 or so dollars for a few HP maybe 7rwhp.
It will make your water pump run slower and thus your fans will be running constantly specially in stop and go traffic.
I can keep going if you want. Alone reason 1 should be enough to deter you.
They make really good paper weights and that's it.
Hell get a bigger and better maf, or get a good TB and don't forget you are going to have to do the alternator pulley also.
Avoid ASP, there have been a number of documented timing chain failures associated with the ASP. Don't forget, the part you are replacing is a "harmonic damper", not a pulley. As you go smaller in diameter to get the under drive capability, you lose damping capability. The best two out there are ATI and stock, and ATI is a 10% under drive.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 5
From: Auckland, Nth Is, New Zealand.
Why do you want an under drive pulley.
When you look at it is it worth the money for the HP gains.
Most UD pullies are around $300 or so dollars for a few HP maybe 7rwhp.
It will make your water pump run slower and thus your fans will be running constantly specially in stop and go traffic.
I can keep going if you want. Alone reason 1 should be enough to deter you.
They make really good paper weights and that's it.
Hell get a bigger and better maf, or get a good TB and don't forget you are going to have to do the alternator pulley also.
When you look at it is it worth the money for the HP gains.
Most UD pullies are around $300 or so dollars for a few HP maybe 7rwhp.
It will make your water pump run slower and thus your fans will be running constantly specially in stop and go traffic.
I can keep going if you want. Alone reason 1 should be enough to deter you.
They make really good paper weights and that's it.
Hell get a bigger and better maf, or get a good TB and don't forget you are going to have to do the alternator pulley also.
Read up on what guys have used through search
I have been running the SLP pulley/dampener for about 150,000 miles now with no problems. Paid $185 for it on sale from Speed Inc. a few years ago. I live in the south and it gets real hot down here and there has never been an issue with the temp of the engine. You can progran your fans to come on at what ever temp you want them to. I just replaced both of my cooling fans at 210,000 miles. They obviously have a long life span. After heads and cam you have done the mods that make the large HP/TQ gains. After that you have to do mods that make the smaller gains to get to your performance goal. In the end I ended up with 452/418 on a daily driver.
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powerbond pulley here
no problems with it or my charging, I didn't change the alt pulley
also didn't change the way my car heats/cools
get one used and save some cash...mine was $125 on ebay
no problems with it or my charging, I didn't change the alt pulley
also didn't change the way my car heats/cools
get one used and save some cash...mine was $125 on ebay
It's actually a very popular mod, and is very well worth the money. We sell you guys on the forum the powerbond unit for a great price, and it includes the new shorter belts you will need and your choice of either a new stock bolt at the quoted price or our own reusable aftermarket bolt for $10 more. We also offer ATI and have had perfect results with both brands.
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WHIPPLE Superchargers, Procharger, Magnuson, Powerbond Sale, HPTuners packages!, Trickflow, AFR, PRC, CHE Trunion upgrade, $100 7.400" pushrod set, Custom Cam of your choice
800-456-0211 / PM / Facebook
WHIPPLE Superchargers, Procharger, Magnuson, Powerbond Sale, HPTuners packages!, Trickflow, AFR, PRC, CHE Trunion upgrade, $100 7.400" pushrod set, Custom Cam of your choice
It's actually a very popular mod, and is very well worth the money. We sell you guys on the forum the powerbond unit for a great price, and it includes the new shorter belts you will need and your choice of either a new stock bolt at the quoted price or our own reusable aftermarket bolt for $10 more. We also offer ATI and have had perfect results with both brands.
Can you Pm a quote on the powerbond with the short belts shipped to 78041? No need for the bolt. Thanks.
Why do you want an under drive pulley.
When you look at it is it worth the money for the HP gains.
Most UD pullies are around $300 or so dollars for a few HP maybe 7rwhp.
It will make your water pump run slower and thus your fans will be running constantly specially in stop and go traffic.
I can keep going if you want. Alone reason 1 should be enough to deter you.
They make really good paper weights and that's it.
Hell get a bigger and better maf, or get a good TB and don't forget you are going to have to do the alternator pulley also.
When you look at it is it worth the money for the HP gains.
Most UD pullies are around $300 or so dollars for a few HP maybe 7rwhp.
It will make your water pump run slower and thus your fans will be running constantly specially in stop and go traffic.
I can keep going if you want. Alone reason 1 should be enough to deter you.
They make really good paper weights and that's it.
Hell get a bigger and better maf, or get a good TB and don't forget you are going to have to do the alternator pulley also.
Great advice. 
But Ill keep in mind that MAF comment.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 5
From: Auckland, Nth Is, New Zealand.
Ok so a bigger MAF (M*** Air Flow sensor) is an air restricted apparently I don't know a thing about it or my tuner. A larger MAF will help in throttle response and over all drive ability. It will help with future true performance upgrades as you go bigger but I don't know what i am talking about. I know guys running 700 & 800 hp street driven cars with a MAF but they have no idea what they r doing. For the money that you invest into an UD there are better ways of spending money for future mod upgrades. I had an UD I got rid of it and I saw no loss in hp, drive ability and or performance, my car ran better did not run as hot and I had no issues at all with out it.
But Ill keep in mind that MAF comment.
But Ill keep in mind that MAF comment.
A MAF has it's purpose on a standed or tuned daily driven motor for sure, but if your after performance 'DITCH' it
So back to the topic at hand....
No one here is going to convince me that an after market UD pulley will have negative dampening capabilities over the stock giant chunk of chewed up piece of iron abomination GM hand tightened onto the LS cranks.
Even the obsolete version of my 25% underdrive ASP pulley that I just put onto my car made a noticeable difference in power and response from my cammed LS1, with zero ill effects to the charging system, engine temperature, etc. And surprising enough, i actually gained 2 mpg in the city. Not sure about actual hp/tq gains since I haven't bothered to dyno and haven't made any track passes yet.
No one here is going to convince me that an after market UD pulley will have negative dampening capabilities over the stock giant chunk of chewed up piece of iron abomination GM hand tightened onto the LS cranks.
Even the obsolete version of my 25% underdrive ASP pulley that I just put onto my car made a noticeable difference in power and response from my cammed LS1, with zero ill effects to the charging system, engine temperature, etc. And surprising enough, i actually gained 2 mpg in the city. Not sure about actual hp/tq gains since I haven't bothered to dyno and haven't made any track passes yet.
The Powerbond pulley is also SFI certified as well. SLP= Repackaged Powerbond.
I picked mine up from New Era for about 180 shipped, and got it fast!!
Its a great looking pulley. Its all black. I just installed one on my car, but changed cams at the same time so i cant speak for the gains just yet.
I picked mine up from New Era for about 180 shipped, and got it fast!!
Its a great looking pulley. Its all black. I just installed one on my car, but changed cams at the same time so i cant speak for the gains just yet.
Here's a dumb question, but one I haven't seen answered yet...what makes the ATI so much better than the other pulleys? Does it somehow dampen better, and if so, how? Is it just built better?