1 3/4 headers vs 1 7/8 headers
1 3/4 headers vs 1 7/8 headers Are there any dyno sheets or track times proving that the 1 7/8 headers make more power WITHOUT a cam or heads done? I'm talking full bolt ons only. I think I saw a thread on here a few years ago showing the dyno results
Maryland Speed describes it this way (about Kooks)
1 3/4"
"With a proper tune at a dyno shop, these headers are good for 20-35HP depending on the vehicle. The 1 3/4" design is great for cars with basic bolt on mods intended to make 400-450 rwhp!"
1 7/8"
"With a proper tune at a dyno shop, these headers are good for 20-35HP depending on the vehicle. The 1 7/8" design is great for cars with advanced bolt on mods, internal engine work, and forced induction or nitrous in the 450-650 rwhp range!"
Hope this helps a little...
1 3/4"
"With a proper tune at a dyno shop, these headers are good for 20-35HP depending on the vehicle. The 1 3/4" design is great for cars with basic bolt on mods intended to make 400-450 rwhp!"
1 7/8"
"With a proper tune at a dyno shop, these headers are good for 20-35HP depending on the vehicle. The 1 7/8" design is great for cars with advanced bolt on mods, internal engine work, and forced induction or nitrous in the 450-650 rwhp range!"
Hope this helps a little...
Last edited by libertyforall1776; Sep 13, 2010 at 11:23 AM.
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if you do a search..
you will find that in general.. with no other changes...
you will have the same horsepower and torque down low, but your top end will extend to a higher rpm.
no "loss" of low end torque from 1-7/8 headers... if you have loss, then you have a shitty tuner.
you will find that in general.. with no other changes...
you will have the same horsepower and torque down low, but your top end will extend to a higher rpm.
no "loss" of low end torque from 1-7/8 headers... if you have loss, then you have a shitty tuner.
Run a search for my user name. We engine dyno tested both sizes side by side when testing on a stock ls1!
__________________
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
but the jury is still out how these TSP 1 7/8s will perform against one of the top 3 ARH, kooks, or QTP 1 3/4 headers...
I have yet to see a dyno that compares ARH, kooks, or qtp 1 3/4 to ARH, kooks, qtp 1 7/8s...
I won't have an a-b comparion but it is the best I can do...
from non mandrel bent y with qtp 1 3/4 to
mandrel bent y with flowmaster merge, ARH 1 7/8, and an EWP...
should have results on Thursday if everything goes as it should...
look in dyno results section...
I would like to see that proof, not on an engine dyno, but on a full F-Body...
if you do a search..
you will find that in general.. with no other changes...
you will have the same horsepower and torque down low, but your top end will extend to a higher rpm.
no "loss" of low end torque from 1-7/8 headers... if you have loss, then you have a shitty tuner.
you will find that in general.. with no other changes...
you will have the same horsepower and torque down low, but your top end will extend to a higher rpm.
no "loss" of low end torque from 1-7/8 headers... if you have loss, then you have a shitty tuner.
I switched from 1-3/4 kooks stainless to 1-7/8 kooks stainless...
Pulled it around lunch on the dyno... swapped the headers, and pulled again just 3 hours later.
My back to back lost nothing down low... line followed identical.
I gained power from about 4600 on up....
I got the 500 on a stock bottom end LS1
In the quest for 500 horsepower on a previous vehicle of mine....
I switched from 1-3/4 kooks stainless to 1-7/8 kooks stainless...
Pulled it around lunch on the dyno... swapped the headers, and pulled again just 3 hours later.
My back to back lost nothing down low... line followed identical.
I gained power from about 4600 on up....
I got the 500 on a stock bottom end LS1
I switched from 1-3/4 kooks stainless to 1-7/8 kooks stainless...
Pulled it around lunch on the dyno... swapped the headers, and pulled again just 3 hours later.
My back to back lost nothing down low... line followed identical.
I gained power from about 4600 on up....
I got the 500 on a stock bottom end LS1
that's what I like to hear how much more hp did I get you up top...also what setup did you have to hit 500rwhp...pm me if you don't want to post...thanks
btw chrs1313 im looking forward to see ur results.
when will u finish the swap ?
which size flowmaster merge are u planing to install 3" or 4" out ?
Last edited by Engine_HP; Sep 13, 2010 at 03:17 PM.
I like what I hear -- can you post pics of your before and after dyno charts? Also would love to know all your mods... Thanks!
In the quest for 500 horsepower on a previous vehicle of mine....
I switched from 1-3/4 kooks stainless to 1-7/8 kooks stainless...
Pulled it around lunch on the dyno... swapped the headers, and pulled again just 3 hours later.
My back to back lost nothing down low... line followed identical.
I gained power from about 4600 on up....
I got the 500 on a stock bottom end LS1
I switched from 1-3/4 kooks stainless to 1-7/8 kooks stainless...
Pulled it around lunch on the dyno... swapped the headers, and pulled again just 3 hours later.
My back to back lost nothing down low... line followed identical.
I gained power from about 4600 on up....
I got the 500 on a stock bottom end LS1
haha jk 4"
