Maxing out a bolt-on only car (stock heads, stock cam, NA)
#25
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!ps, !a/c.
would it be possible for you to balance and port match your whole motor? what about a competition valve job?
if not how about a thinner head gasket?
would it be possible for you to balance and port match your whole motor? what about a competition valve job?
if not how about a thinner head gasket?
Last edited by brian_rs/ss; 01-11-2011 at 10:58 PM.
#27
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wait so how would they know if you balanced your rotating assembly? it's still the stock stuff, just balanced. it's not like you are porting anything, or swapping in aftermarket parts.
#30
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If all your trying to do is go 11's, you should be able to throw a 3600-4000 stall, sticky tires, and full normal bolt-ons on a pretty much stock weight car and run high 11's. My problem is I really want 10's, and with a 6speed to boot.
My build thread is here, it doesn't have everything but it should help out: Build Thread
#31
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at my altitiude ill probably run high 12s but thats ok with me thats really impressive well at least for me I didnt know you could take off almost 2 secs with just bolt ons, to me sounds impressing
sorry if I sound like a noob lol
I reallly appreciated your help thanks a lot![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
have some questions if you don't mind?
this intake the "SUX2BU ram-air" like do you know a really good one to build???
also when you say "and full bolt ons" like what you mean, i have longtube headers, lid, exhaust, getting the stall so not sure what more
what kind of weight reduction I could do it as long as I dont sacrafice important things from the car
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I reallly appreciated your help thanks a lot
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
have some questions if you don't mind?
this intake the "SUX2BU ram-air" like do you know a really good one to build???
also when you say "and full bolt ons" like what you mean, i have longtube headers, lid, exhaust, getting the stall so not sure what more
what kind of weight reduction I could do it as long as I dont sacrafice important things from the car
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Last edited by needtransam; 01-13-2011 at 12:15 AM.
#32
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As long as the valve covers dont come off to install it, it is a stock internal car. Cam heads rockers etc and it is no longer bolt on... oil should not touch the part you are replacing.
Gears converter suspension etc are all allowed.
There is an extensive list of weight removql you an do.. go look at it and decide what you don't mind getting rid of. Be careful though, weight reduction is addicting. I think it is in dragracing tech stickies.
*phone
Gears converter suspension etc are all allowed.
There is an extensive list of weight removql you an do.. go look at it and decide what you don't mind getting rid of. Be careful though, weight reduction is addicting. I think it is in dragracing tech stickies.
*phone
#33
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i havent had the chance to experiment with a lot of set ups....but would switching to a carb'ed set up be worth it? or is the gains over your 102 set up hardly worth it (if worth it at all) and would that be legal for the SI class...?
#35
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I think you should try more gear , like 4.88. The faster cam only cars usually run 4.56 w/ 28 in tire and trap in the 130-132 range going through traps around 7000-7200. If you are trapping 120 or so now with a few tweaks and more gear you should be able to trap 123-125 SI which should put you in same trap RPM range with the steeper gear. Looked it up on racing calculator and with 28 in tire and 4.88 should put you through the traps around 124- 125 @ 7200-7300 rpm in 4th gear
#36
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I think you should try more gear , like 4.88. The faster cam only cars usually run 4.56 w/ 28 in tire and trap in the 130-132 range going through traps around 7000-7200. If you are trapping 120 or so now with a few tweaks and more gear you should be able to trap 123-125 SI which should put you in same trap RPM range with the steeper gear. Looked it up on racing calculator and with 28 in tire and 4.88 should put you through the traps around 124- 125 @ 7200-7300 rpm in 4th gear
You gear the car to maximize your powerband, not to maximize RPMs.
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#37
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I realize that and agree with you . What rpm does your car make peak power. You should shift 300-400 rpm higher , correct? Also most cars setup for drag racing correctly go through the traps usually 300-400 rpm higher than the shift point if gearing is setup correctly. So I would imagine you can gear your car accordingly based on that. What is your current peak and shift points?
Last edited by Killer5.3; 01-14-2011 at 12:44 AM.
#38
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I only picked up somewhat less than a mph by taking the belt off and no et from it, ewp is a waste of money, there is really nothing else you can do that i can think of. I do run collector extensions that are about 18 inches from the tip of the collector(don't really help much if any). I don't run a maf saved money on that and do my own tuning. A good wideband would be really good cause if you can manage to get the a/f ratio spot on then that would help alot. My lc1 is not worth a crap from all the testing i seen done lol. from what i can tell the only good cheap one would be the powerdex afx.
I should have my ported fast 102 on tomorrow, hopefully i can get some track times soon.
I should have my ported fast 102 on tomorrow, hopefully i can get some track times soon.
#39
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Did a search and it looks like most full bolt on cars make peak power around 6200 or so which is about 200-300 rpm under what most cam cars peak. That would put shift points around 6500-6600 i would think and trap rpm around 6900 -7000 under optimum conditions. So 4.56 with 28 in tire would allow 127mph @7000 rpm. I believe you said you had some 4.56 so that should work. Should put you around 6700-6800 if you can trap 123-125.
#40
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I'm also doing the same thing these days ( Maxing out my Bolt-ons parts ) but I have Forged 346 + H/C + Ported FAST 92/92 setup
I'm currently having :-
- SLP Lid & Ram Air
- Stock MAF
- Pacesetter LTs
- Pacesetter Crap Y-Pipe
- Magnaflow
I'm in final steps to finish installing the following
- 104mm Lid with Chris1313
- TSP 100mm MAF
- TSP 1 7/8 Headers
- EWP
- TSP 3" Off Road Y-Pipe
- SLP Cat-Back with 3" Cutout ..
I'm sure I will get that 460 rwhp with a car that idles like stock
<< Stealthness
I'm currently having :-
- SLP Lid & Ram Air
- Stock MAF
- Pacesetter LTs
- Pacesetter Crap Y-Pipe
- Magnaflow
I'm in final steps to finish installing the following
- 104mm Lid with Chris1313
- TSP 100mm MAF
- TSP 1 7/8 Headers
- EWP
- TSP 3" Off Road Y-Pipe
- SLP Cat-Back with 3" Cutout ..
I'm sure I will get that 460 rwhp with a car that idles like stock
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
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