garygnu

what about a PnP TB?would you consider a manual rack and pinion ?

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

TB is a CNC 102MM

No manual rack at this time, possibly in the future...

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

I am very curious what kinds of gains you will get by the using the big MAF and lid with the stock heads/cam and Fast....

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Me too... I am really hoping for 2mph (~20hp) from the EWP, 1 7/8th headers, Lid, MAF, FAST 102, and a real tune...

I'm not sure if that is wishful thinking or conservative, but its what Im hoping for..

brian_rs/ss

!ps, !a/c.

would it be possible for you to balance and port match your whole motor? what about a competition valve job?

if not how about a thinner head gasket?

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

I run a short belt so !PS is only for weight, and will probably happen some day. !AC isn't happening here in florida until EVERYTHING else is done...

The motor has to be completely stock...all of the internal stuff would disqualify me.

Thanks though!

brian_rs/ss

wait so how would they know if you balanced your rotating assembly? it's still the stock stuff, just balanced. it's not like you are porting anything, or swapping in aftermarket parts.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

No one would ever know, for all intensive purposes I could just make up my times.. but it defeats the purpose of pushing your car to the limits which makes this hobby fun

needtransam

iTrader: (2)

Interesting is ur car an auto or manual? Im not sure what you have done but would it be asking too much your mod list I want to reach 11s with stock internals

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Your pretty much looking at my mod list above. The only things not listed are the monster level 3 clutch, pro 5.0 shifter, and weight reduction (most likely my biggest mod)

If all your trying to do is go 11's, you should be able to throw a 3600-4000 stall, sticky tires, and full normal bolt-ons on a pretty much stock weight car and run high 11's. My problem is I really want 10's, and with a 6speed to boot.

My build thread is here, it doesn't have everything but it should help out: Build Thread

needtransam

iTrader: (2)

at my altitiude ill probably run high 12s but thats ok with me thats really impressive well at least for me I didnt know you could take off almost 2 secs with just bolt ons, to me sounds impressing sorry if I sound like a noob lol

I reallly appreciated your help thanks a lot


have some questions if you don't mind?

this intake the "SUX2BU ram-air" like do you know a really good one to build???

also when you say "and full bolt ons" like what you mean, i have longtube headers, lid, exhaust, getting the stall so not sure what more

what kind of weight reduction I could do it as long as I dont sacrafice important things from the car

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

As long as the valve covers dont come off to install it, it is a stock internal car. Cam heads rockers etc and it is no longer bolt on... oil should not touch the part you are replacing.

Gears converter suspension etc are all allowed.

There is an extensive list of weight removql you an do.. go look at it and decide what you don't mind getting rid of. Be careful though, weight reduction is addicting. I think it is in dragracing tech stickies.

*phone

RoidedSS

i havent had the chance to experiment with a lot of set ups....but would switching to a carb'ed set up be worth it? or is the gains over your 102 set up hardly worth it (if worth it at all) and would that be legal for the SI class...?

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

OP and others-what lightweight battery are you running that is good for a street car? Mine is not a DD but at times I treat it that way. Worried about street use and cold weather starts

Killer5.3

iTrader: (1)

I think you should try more gear , like 4.88. The faster cam only cars usually run 4.56 w/ 28 in tire and trap in the 130-132 range going through traps around 7000-7200. If you are trapping 120 or so now with a few tweaks and more gear you should be able to trap 123-125 SI which should put you in same trap RPM range with the steeper gear. Looked it up on racing calculator and with 28 in tire and 4.88 should put you through the traps around 124- 125 @ 7200-7300 rpm in 4th gear

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

I dont mean to be rude, but the reason they go that high is because that's where there powerband is. There is no way a stock internal car would do that.

You gear the car to maximize your powerband, not to maximize RPMs.

Killer5.3

iTrader: (1)

I realize that and agree with you . What rpm does your car make peak power. You should shift 300-400 rpm higher , correct? Also most cars setup for drag racing correctly go through the traps usually 300-400 rpm higher than the shift point if gearing is setup correctly. So I would imagine you can gear your car accordingly based on that. What is your current peak and shift points?

nmass399

I only picked up somewhat less than a mph by taking the belt off and no et from it, ewp is a waste of money, there is really nothing else you can do that i can think of. I do run collector extensions that are about 18 inches from the tip of the collector(don't really help much if any). I don't run a maf saved money on that and do my own tuning. A good wideband would be really good cause if you can manage to get the a/f ratio spot on then that would help alot. My lc1 is not worth a crap from all the testing i seen done lol. from what i can tell the only good cheap one would be the powerdex afx.

I should have my ported fast 102 on tomorrow, hopefully i can get some track times soon.

Killer5.3

iTrader: (1)

Did a search and it looks like most full bolt on cars make peak power around 6200 or so which is about 200-300 rpm under what most cam cars peak. That would put shift points around 6500-6600 i would think and trap rpm around 6900 -7000 under optimum conditions. So 4.56 with 28 in tire would allow 127mph @7000 rpm. I believe you said you had some 4.56 so that should work. Should put you around 6700-6800 if you can trap 123-125.

Stealth Camaro

I'm also doing the same thing these days ( Maxing out my Bolt-ons parts ) but I have Forged 346 + H/C + Ported FAST 92/92 setup

I'm currently having :-

- SLP Lid & Ram Air
- Stock MAF
- Pacesetter LTs
- Pacesetter Crap Y-Pipe
- Magnaflow

I'm in final steps to finish installing the following

- 104mm Lid with Chris1313
- TSP 100mm MAF
- TSP 1 7/8 Headers
- EWP
- TSP 3" Off Road Y-Pipe
- SLP Cat-Back with 3" Cutout ..

I'm sure I will get that 460 rwhp with a car that idles like stock << Stealthness