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**STICKY WORTHY** GMMG Exhaust.. How To Eliminate Rasp * Lots of Vids and Pics*

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Old 03-12-2013, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by maxpower_454
I'm going to jack my car up and get a measurement tonight. I hope to fit a pretty large one (30"-32" body length). I agree it should do wonders. The OP of this thread used a powerstick so the longest body length he could have used was 26". I'm still not crazy about the cobrapacks and power pacs being mild steel and not SS but since it'll be in a Fab'ed I pipe, I guess I could live with it.

The powerstick that I used was the Medium length one. I belief the body is 20" and overall length is 25". It fit perfect for my setup.

Sounds good! Some 3k+ vids would be nice tho like others said. I agree much better than TSP catbacks/TD's. They are way overpriced.
I know I know. I really need to get a better vid. If I can get a good weekend I will get the gf to record a full throttle run.
Old 03-12-2013, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cknoma2005
I'm not understanding your question.
The exhaust is 3" from the header collectors all the way until it splits at the SLP y in the back. Then in goes to 2 1/2" out to the tips. The piece of pipe that exits the first muffler and goes up over the axle is actually 3" even though it does look like it. I made sure to measure it
Its the SLP Y that I cant see in the photos. All I can see is the 3" on one side, and two 2 1/2" on the other side.
Old 03-12-2013, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by maxpower_454
I'm going to jack my car up and get a measurement tonight. I hope to fit a pretty large one (30"-32" body length). I agree it should do wonders. The OP of this thread used a powerstick so the longest body length he could have used was 26". I'm still not crazy about the cobrapacks and power pacs being mild steel and not SS but since it'll be in a Fab'ed I pipe, I guess I could live with it.




Sounds good! Some 3k+ vids would be nice tho like others said. I agree much better than TSP catbacks/TD's. They are way overpriced.
If want SS, look at stainless steel works smooth tube muffler $140.00
Old 03-16-2013, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by maxpower_454
I'm going to jack my car up and get a measurement tonight. I hope to fit a pretty large one (30"-32" body length). I agree it should do wonders. The OP of this thread used a powerstick so the longest body length he could have used was 26". I'm still not crazy about the cobrapacks and power pacs being mild steel and not SS but since it'll be in a Fab'ed I pipe, I guess I could live with it.

Sounds good! Some 3k+ vids would be nice tho like others said. I agree much better than TSP catbacks/TD's. They are way overpriced.
Well I measured my exhaust the other night. With a TSP catted Y I can fit one with an overall length of 30". I had hoped to fit a bigger one but the I-pipe isn't as long as I remembered. If my TSP catted Y doesn't fit with my new Kooks headers, I'll be going to a Kooks ORY so I have to wait until after I get my H/C and headers installed to decide which one I'll be going with.

Last edited by maxpower_454; 03-16-2013 at 09:11 PM.
Old 03-31-2013, 05:47 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by t/a98
I have a three muffler powerstick set up. 30 inch in the I and two 24's in the back, basically a gmmg clone. Stepped headers 1 3/4- 1 7/8 ory big cam and other stuff. It's loud but not overbearing. It gets nasty when I'm on the gas. No rasp though. I agree the I pipe muffler is the key. I installed mine correctly though. Curious to hear why you should do it backwards? Classic chambered powersticks have a full 3 inch opening all the way through and the fins are pretty small. Not alot of restriction.
Correct. I have ALWAYS recommended the inlet as being AGAINST the louvers vs. over them (with the grain). They are about 4 dBA's louder if you go over them, plus not much of the soundwaves get into the outer cavity of the muffler where the crimp areas go to work. As far as the Stainless work chambered mufflers, they use a packing material inside of them which totally defeats the purpose of the chambered crimps. Chambered exhaust was NEVER designed to incorporate any kind of packing material to absorb sound. Plus, nobody else uses a 3" core (flowpath) inside a chambered muffler section besides me. I've never seen it anyway. Lastly, there is not much of a flow difference in my mufflers when you install them in the recommended direction.
Old 03-31-2013, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Powerstick
Correct. I have ALWAYS recommended the inlet as being AGAINST the louvers vs. over them (with the grain). They are about 4 dBA's louder if you go over them, plus not much of the soundwaves get into the outer cavity of the muffler where the crimp areas go to work. As far as the Stainless work chambered mufflers, they use a packing material inside of them which totally defeats the purpose of the chambered crimps. Chambered exhaust was NEVER designed to incorporate any kind of packing material to absorb sound. Plus, nobody else uses a 3" core (flowpath) inside a chambered muffler section besides me. I've never seen it anyway. Lastly, there is not much of a flow difference in my mufflers when you install them in the recommended direction.
I'm confused, I have mine installed the way that it was labeled witht he inlet, are you saying to install it "against" the grain or backwards?
Old 04-05-2013, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Powerstick
Correct. I have ALWAYS recommended the inlet as being AGAINST the louvers vs. over them (with the grain). They are about 4 dBA's louder if you go over them, plus not much of the soundwaves get into the outer cavity of the muffler where the crimp areas go to work. As far as the Stainless work chambered mufflers, they use a packing material inside of them which totally defeats the purpose of the chambered crimps. Chambered exhaust was NEVER designed to incorporate any kind of packing material to absorb sound. Plus, nobody else uses a 3" core (flowpath) inside a chambered muffler section besides me. I've never seen it anyway. Lastly, there is not much of a flow difference in my mufflers when you install them in the recommended direction.
Why is there packing in the cobrapacks then? Are they not chambered?
Old 04-05-2013, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by maxpower_454
Why is there packing in the cobrapacks then? Are they not chambered?
Cobrapacks are really just glass-packs. They are not the chambered power sticks.
Old 04-05-2013, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by n2oblkz
I'm confused, I have mine installed the way that it was labeled witht he inlet, are you saying to install it "against" the grain or backwards?
Against the grain is NOT backwards. It is the correct way, and they are marked inlet. He is saying that you can install it backwards (with the grain) and it will be louder.
Old 04-06-2013, 03:02 PM
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Does this apply to LT1s? My car sounds a lot better stock than yours did... DONT MAKE ME NEROUVS I WANT LT HEADERS! lol
Old 04-06-2013, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ThoR294
Does this apply to LT1s? My car sounds a lot better stock than yours did... DONT MAKE ME NEROUVS I WANT LT HEADERS! lol
My car is a cammed/bolt on LT1 with long tubes, Y pipe with bullet cats, Power Stick in the intermediate pipe and a GMMG. It sounds really good!
Old 04-19-2013, 08:06 AM
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Well I got my Kooks LT's installed with the Kooks ORY and I'm a little bummed. The fit on the Kooks ORY is SO GOOD AND TIGHT that it's going to be tough to get a powerstick in there!!!!! This is a problem I didn't foresee because my TSP catted Y fit like CRAP so there was plenty of room in the tunnel.

I have 3 questions at this point:
1- Did anyone else fit a powerstick in the I pipe with a stock Kooks ORY?
2- For anyone who bought a powerstick, are the ends 3" ID to fit over the stock Y pipe or are they 3" OD like normal 3" pipe?
3- OP or anyone else who welded to the Kooks ORY. Did you need special wire to weld the mild steel to the SS Y pipe or did regular steel wire in a mig work?

Last edited by maxpower_454; 04-23-2013 at 10:55 AM.
Old 04-24-2013, 06:24 PM
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Well I did some measuring now that I have the kooks Y pipe installed. I can fit a long powerstick or the normal 30" (26" body) stainless works one with the current GMGG I-pipe if I cut it right before the first bend. I thought about doing this but I just called my local monroe muffler and they have a 3" mandrel bender so I'm going to take off the I-pipe piece of my GMMG and have them replicate the 2 bends at the back. Then I'll just cut that piece to fit and cut the Kooks Y about 2.5" after the merge and install the tube muffler in between. I might add a cutout to the bent piece of tubing later but for now I just want to get it together so I can take the car to the OCMD cruise. I'm going to order the stainless works chambered muffler tomorrow. Stay tuned!

Last edited by maxpower_454; 04-25-2013 at 08:41 AM.
Old 04-25-2013, 08:42 AM
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I just ordered a stainless works chambered tube muffler - CR33. They come with 3" ID inlet and 3" OD outlet. I'm not sure why if it's claimed to be reversible... Anyway, I guess I'll just have the guy at Monroe either make the pipe piece 3" ID inlet or more likely, I'll just have them blow up the outlet end of the tube muffler.
Old 04-29-2013, 06:12 PM
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Does anyone have a good picture of the inside of a powerstick? I know it says 'true 3" flowpath' on classic chambered's website but is it really 3" inside besides the little louvers? It's a little tough to tell by looking at the other pics on here. I just got my stainless works tube muffler and even though it's 3.5" OD, it's like 2" ID!!! I'm trying to decide whether I should send it back and get a powerstick or not.

Thanks!!
Old 04-29-2013, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by maxpower_454
Does anyone have a good picture of the inside of a powerstick? I know it says 'true 3" flowpath' on classic chambered's website but is it really 3" inside besides the little louvers? It's a little tough to tell by looking at the other pics on here. I just got my stainless works tube muffler and even though it's 3.5" OD, it's like 2" ID!!! I'm trying to decide whether I should send it back and get a powerstick or not.

Thanks!!
I have no pics, but I do have one and it is a true 3 inch inside muffler.
Old 04-29-2013, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by n2oblkz
I have no pics, but I do have one and it is a true 3 inch inside muffler.
Is it 3" dia to the tip of the louvers or 3" to the valley between the louvers?
Old 04-29-2013, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by maxpower_454
Is it 3" dia to the tip of the louvers or 3" to the valley between the louvers?
It looks as if it's 3 inch straight through from tip to tip with the louvers punched through.
Old 04-30-2013, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by n2oblkz
It looks as if it's 3 inch straight through from tip to tip with the louvers punched through.
Thanks. Eric told me they start with 3" OD pipe and them punch the louvers into that. This should be MUCH better than the stainless works one I got. I'm still not crazy about the powerstick not being stainless but oh well.... I'm starting to see why guys just go with TD's instead of messing with the GMMG after H/C.
Old 04-30-2013, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by maxpower_454
Thanks. Eric told me they start with 3" OD pipe and them punch the louvers into that. This should be MUCH better than the stainless works one I got. I'm still not crazy about the powerstick not being stainless but oh well.... I'm starting to see why guys just go with TD's instead of messing with the GMMG after H/C.
I can see that, I added two Magnaflow high flow bullet cats in my ORY and my GMMG sounds great.


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