**STICKY WORTHY** GMMG Exhaust.. How To Eliminate Rasp * Lots of Vids and Pics*
03-11-2013, 01:54 PM
#161
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If that's true, then their website is completely wrong:
COBRAPACK MUFFLERS – 3” OD Flowpath (*Over 450 HP)
(NO PACKING - More Aggressive Sound)
COBRAPACK MUFFLERS – 3” OD Flowpath (*Over 450 HP)
(WITH PACKING - Better Noise Reduction)
Or at least very misleading.
Also, why would you go with (2) 12" cobrapacs? Why not just 1 longer one?
COBRAPACK MUFFLERS – 3” OD Flowpath (*Over 450 HP)
(NO PACKING - More Aggressive Sound)
COBRAPACK MUFFLERS – 3” OD Flowpath (*Over 450 HP)
(WITH PACKING - Better Noise Reduction)
Or at least very misleading.
Also, why would you go with (2) 12" cobrapacs? Why not just 1 longer one?
03-11-2013, 02:15 PM
#162
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If that's true, then their website is completely wrong:
COBRAPACK MUFFLERS – 3” OD Flowpath (*Over 450 HP)
(NO PACKING - More Aggressive Sound)
COBRAPACK MUFFLERS – 3” OD Flowpath (*Over 450 HP)
(WITH PACKING - Better Noise Reduction)
Or at least very misleading.
Also, why would you go with (2) 12" cobrapacs? Why not just 1 longer one?
COBRAPACK MUFFLERS – 3” OD Flowpath (*Over 450 HP)
(NO PACKING - More Aggressive Sound)
COBRAPACK MUFFLERS – 3” OD Flowpath (*Over 450 HP)
(WITH PACKING - Better Noise Reduction)
Or at least very misleading.
Also, why would you go with (2) 12" cobrapacs? Why not just 1 longer one?
As far as my thoughts. I was thinking that I want to put (1) long as possible Cobrapack in the I pipe (maybe 26"?) and two more 12" resonators (shorter Cobrapacks) in the tail pipes. Tolal of (3) mufflers all 3" OD flowpath.
03-11-2013, 04:27 PM
#163
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I have a H/C car with kooks LT 1 3/4" headers and kooks ORY and GMMG. Will the Powerstick actually kill any rasp on a H/C car? Also, is the flowmaster merge needed or can I just do the Powerstick. Whats the advantage of getting the FM merge?
03-11-2013, 05:49 PM
#164
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Did you read any of the 9 pages, and listen to the vids?...
03-11-2013, 06:47 PM
#165
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I did read all 9 pages but these two posts are what I was questioning. The car Cranny is talking about is h/c/i and did almost nothing to reduce rasp. Torch's car does have a cam but stock heads.
Is the flowmaster merge needed to add the powerstick? If not it seems like a waste of money if it does nothing according to the post by torchd below. I'm no exhaust guru by any means so is the merge just needed to install the powerstick in the I pipe or can the power stick simply just be welded into the I without the need of the merge?
Now are the videos.. These vids are showing how that by adding the Powestick in the I pipe is what killed about 98% of my rasp. NOT the Flowmaster Merge. In the presvious vids you can hear how raspy it is. With these vids, when you listen, I tell you when I close my windows so you can hear from both the inside and the outside. Also I try to keep it in the 2100 RPM to 2300 RPM range where the rasp starts. With my set up it is ALMOST no exsistent!!!!!!
Continuing on in post #3..........
Is the flowmaster merge needed to add the powerstick? If not it seems like a waste of money if it does nothing according to the post by torchd below. I'm no exhaust guru by any means so is the merge just needed to install the powerstick in the I pipe or can the power stick simply just be welded into the I without the need of the merge?
Just some info I want to add regarding this thread. The title may be a little misleading depending on what the rest of your mods are. My friend has a GMMG exhaust. His car is a h/c/i car running AFR heads, MS3 cam and fast102. He dynoed at 468rwhp on a dynojet. He added the powerstick and it did very little to reduce rasp. I cannot tell any improvement or difference in sound quality.
The powerstick may help for bolt on or slightly modified cars. On cars making more serious power, the powerstick doesn't seem to help much for reducing rasp.
The powerstick may help for bolt on or slightly modified cars. On cars making more serious power, the powerstick doesn't seem to help much for reducing rasp.
Now are the videos.. These vids are showing how that by adding the Powestick in the I pipe is what killed about 98% of my rasp. NOT the Flowmaster Merge. In the presvious vids you can hear how raspy it is. With these vids, when you listen, I tell you when I close my windows so you can hear from both the inside and the outside. Also I try to keep it in the 2100 RPM to 2300 RPM range where the rasp starts. With my set up it is ALMOST no exsistent!!!!!!
Continuing on in post #3..........
03-11-2013, 07:47 PM
#166
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I did read all 9 pages but these two posts are what I was questioning. The car Cranny is talking about is h/c/i and did almost nothing to reduce rasp. Torch's car does have a cam but stock heads.
Is the flowmaster merge needed to add the powerstick? If not it seems like a waste of money if it does nothing according to the post by torchd below. I'm no exhaust guru by any means so is the merge just needed to install the powerstick in the I pipe or can the power stick simply just be welded into the I without the need of the merge?
Is the flowmaster merge needed to add the powerstick? If not it seems like a waste of money if it does nothing according to the post by torchd below. I'm no exhaust guru by any means so is the merge just needed to install the powerstick in the I pipe or can the power stick simply just be welded into the I without the need of the merge?
03-11-2013, 08:25 PM
#167
I dont undersatnd, what is completely wrong or misleading?
As far as my thoughts. I was thinking that I want to put (1) long as possible Cobrapack in the I pipe (maybe 26"?) and two more 12" resonators (shorter Cobrapacks) in the tail pipes. Tolal of (3) mufflers all 3" OD flowpath.
As far as my thoughts. I was thinking that I want to put (1) long as possible Cobrapack in the I pipe (maybe 26"?) and two more 12" resonators (shorter Cobrapacks) in the tail pipes. Tolal of (3) mufflers all 3" OD flowpath.
Why would you hack up your GMMG like that to add 2 more 12" ones that are probably not necessary? I plan on just removing the "I pipe" part of my GMMG and making a new one with the powerstick, a piece of exhaust pipe, an elbow, and a cutout. That way my GMMG is still complete if I want to reverse things or sell it and if I ever went TD, I could just sell my custom I-pipe.
03-11-2013, 08:27 PM
#168
I'm thinking about just clamping mine on at first and trying it both ways. If installing it against the grain doesn't help things, I'll install it with the grain so improve exhaust flow.
03-11-2013, 08:37 PM
#169
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+1. That's the way I understood it. I am definitely questioning why the OP installed it 'against the grain tho'. I'm thinking about just clamping mine on at first and trying it both ways. If installing it against the grain doesn't help things, I'll install it with the grain so improve exhaust flow.
I'm thinking about just clamping mine on at first and trying it both ways. If installing it against the grain doesn't help things, I'll install it with the grain so improve exhaust flow.
03-11-2013, 08:39 PM
#170
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+1. That's the way I understood it. I am definitely questioning why the OP installed it 'against the grain tho'. I'm thinking about just clamping mine on at first and trying it both ways. If installing it against the grain doesn't help things, I'll install it with the grain so improve exhaust flow.
I'm thinking about just clamping mine on at first and trying it both ways. If installing it against the grain doesn't help things, I'll install it with the grain so improve exhaust flow.Last edited by slow ride 02; 03-12-2013 at 10:23 AM.
03-11-2013, 08:44 PM
#171
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Because the website says the mufflers with packing have better noise reduction.
Why would you hack up your GMMG like that to add 2 more 12" ones that are probably not necessary? I plan on just removing the "I pipe" part of my GMMG and making a new one with the powerstick, a piece of exhaust pipe, an elbow, and a cutout. That way my GMMG is still complete if I want to reverse things or sell it and if I ever went TD, I could just sell my custom I-pipe.
Why would you hack up your GMMG like that to add 2 more 12" ones that are probably not necessary? I plan on just removing the "I pipe" part of my GMMG and making a new one with the powerstick, a piece of exhaust pipe, an elbow, and a cutout. That way my GMMG is still complete if I want to reverse things or sell it and if I ever went TD, I could just sell my custom I-pipe.
03-11-2013, 09:05 PM
#172
I plan on just removing the "I pipe" part of my GMMG and making a new one with the powerstick, a piece of exhaust pipe, an elbow, and a cutout. That way my GMMG is still complete if I want to reverse things or sell it and if I ever went TD, I could just sell my custom I-pipe.
I've been watching this thread for a long time but haven't done this mod yet. Until maxpower suggested his solution I never thought of making a new I-pipe.
I feel really stupid for not thinking of this- thanks!
03-11-2013, 09:49 PM
#173
The against the grain thing has everyone messed up. Against the grain as they call it is the correct way. I spoke the Erick at Classic Chambered and he told me that they are marked inlet and outlet, but it can be installed either way. He states that in his post in this thread (I forgot the post number)
03-11-2013, 10:06 PM
#174
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Max I want to know what you find out from Eric. I don't want to spend 75.00 on a muffler if it will do absolutely nothing for a H/C car. And I like the idea of a fabricated I pipe with the powerstick too. That way if I ever need to sell it everything will be complete
03-11-2013, 11:03 PM
#176
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I think that it will do more than you think. 98%? I dont know. I think that if you put the longest Cobrapack that you can fit in the I pipe about 36" it will do wonders!
03-12-2013, 09:31 AM
#177
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This is my version with Classic Chambered muffler\resonators using a SLP catback.
Cheap and effective build for me. My car has full bolt-ons and Torquer V3 cam.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...o-exhaust.html
Cheap and effective build for me. My car has full bolt-ons and Torquer V3 cam.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...o-exhaust.html
03-12-2013, 09:54 AM
#178
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This is my version with Classic Chambered muffler\resonators using a SLP catback.
Cheap and effective build for me. My car has full bolt-ons and Torquer V3 cam.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...o-exhaust.html
Cheap and effective build for me. My car has full bolt-ons and Torquer V3 cam.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...o-exhaust.html
03-12-2013, 11:44 AM
#179
Sounds good! Some 3k+ vids would be nice tho like others said. I agree much better than TSP catbacks/TD's. They are way overpriced.
03-12-2013, 12:56 PM
#180
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The exhaust is 3" from the header collectors all the way until it splits at the SLP y in the back. Then in goes to 2 1/2" out to the tips. The piece of pipe that exits the first muffler and goes up over the axle is actually 3" even though it does look like it. I made sure to measure it
