skweaky

Sorry if its been covered, but i can't find a direct answer. If I am not planning on breaking the 450 whp mark anytime soon, is replacing the factory rod/main bolts a good idea? I read that the 98 year model came with weaker bolts but how weak are they? Is it not an issue untill higher numbers,rpm's, miles, more abuse?

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

It's not going to hurt. 450 RW is still around 500flywheel. If I had a 98 I would have replaced them when I bought it.

Davey G

iTrader: (1)

You have nothing to worry about and in my opinion it would be a waste of time to change the rod bolts unless you were running some serious power.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

But you still have to ask what mileage is on the car and how was it driven BEFORE you bought it.... It may be good piece of mind to just do it. I'd hate to have something break and cause more damage and money b/c it was beaten and abused before I got it....

Just my 2 cents

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

dont listen to this guy. new rod bolts on any LS engine is always a good idea whether its stock or full on race.

shorty(98TA)

can you get the oil pan off with out dropn the k member? im doing my cam and intake in a few days and am just finding out about the rod bolt issue now im alittle nervous

1Psycho

iTrader: (9)

It's not something that desperately needs to be done on the 98s unless you're gonna spin it past like 6500rpm. Yes it is something that needs to be done but only a necessity if you are gonna spin it past that. I've heard of some guys with 98s constantly running em to like 6800 and being fine and others hitting 64-6500 that one bad time and it goes kaput but 6500 seems to be the safe average limit for the 98s

shorty(98TA)

it seems like cheap insurence to do it now with all the money ive been throwing at this car sense i got it last month im not taken a chance of pissn it all down the drain.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Good, and valid points, but I'd rather spend a hundred than a thousand, or several thousand, any day.

shorty(98TA)

my feelings excatly dr whigham. and love the avatar too and thanks for your service

stoning_volcom

iTrader: (6)

i put arp rod bolts in my 98 ls1 and i wouldnt go anyother way u compare stock to arp and u are kinda like wowed by it so ya like you said it is a cheap insurance

shorty(98TA)

can anyone say if the oil pan can be pulled with out droping the the k member?

BLK95-Z

iTrader: (2)

I turn my bolt on 98 to 6500 atleast twice a day, 105k miles, no issues so far except the damn transmission

98sivlerbullet

iTrader: (1)

I can honestly say my 98 hits 6800-6900 around 10-15 times a week I drive it like I stole it every time I get in it. 139,000 miles she still purrs like a kitten

98 StealthZ

spinning stock rod bolts over 6500 is like picking up a hot hooker and not knowing if she has an STD, ask your self do you really want to take the chance....

I replaced mine with Katech and they are simple to install...

Mat

No, you can't get the pan out without dropping the K-member down.

Stock bolts on my 98 motor. It's seen 6500 to 6800 more than a few times, no issues thus far.

If you're up for the job, then there isn't any reason not to change them out. Like others have said, cheap insurance, just your time and work ethic are required.

Best of luck!

shorty(98TA)

well talked to my buddy and he agreed to free up a lift at his shop. so im ordering arp bolts for the bottom end and headers. im gonna drop it all out the bottom degrease the motor and tranny paint the valve covers and do headers cam and ls6 intake while i have it out

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

no cam and your turning it to 6500? why?

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

ARP bolts require rod resizing...if you dont plan to break down the short block go with Katech bolts. eventhough i would resize them anyways.

shorty(98TA)

i dont really want to break down the whole short block but dont want a junk motor cuz of a rod bolt failure either.

Do you think the katech bolts are relieable upgrade to support my torquer3 LS6 intake LTs?