How does this setup sound to you?
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 277
Likes: 1
From: Shawnee, OK
last time i was at the track on my 18inch wheels and street tires i ran a 13.0 at 110. one of my last races was with a H/C/I stick car with a 9inch and slicks that ran 11.8s. we were bumper to bumper on the street with my same big wheels and walmart tires. the track is a numbers game and the faster you realize that the faster youll realize how fast your car will not be at the track. you drive a stock *** fbody its not gonna go out there and cut 12s right off the bat it just wont especially not with an inexperienced driver. deal with the numbers you get but remember my story the street is a 100% different ball field and its a field i prefer to the track and the biggest reason for that is my car is a different animal on the real road.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
I plan on sticking to the track but maybe in a year or two I will switch from my chevy to the TA so I can get more street action. And yes, I acted like a bitch last night. I do not like the fact that I will be in the low 13's but like you guys said, i gotta deal with it. Maybe down the road I will be able to get a stall or maybe NOS. who knows.
my stock z is a DOG.. no way it'd run 12s
doin a budget build on my car now.. if some kid showed up with a lid and some headers and ran "low 12s" after I did an entire powertrain swap.. I wouldn't be too happy.
That being said, what are you REALLY planning to do with this car? you want these times for bragging rights or something? You got a bunch of buddies that hang out at at the strip or something? (I don't live near one, never have.. or I know I woulda been at one every chance I got just to hang around just for the sights and sounds if nothin else.)
Or are you just interested in the numbers for novelty, but want the car STREET fun? Because you can have a car that's a bit weaker/slower on paper, but is still a blast to drive.
I owned a c6 vette for 5 months. The car was amazing, but starting off fast with no effort.. makes the road boring.
you're only as fast as the soccer mom in the honda odyssey in front of you. I'm enjoying the hotrod/build it up spirit right about now. A lot cheaper than a mid $30k car too. Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
I want to make it a street/strip car. A car that I can drive on the weekends around town looking for some action and then drive it to the track, run all day, and then drive home. And i finally understand that I wont have a 12 second car with what i have. You guys can stop pounding that into my head despite me nagging and whining and asking the same questions over and over. 
Chillax dude. We ain't trying to gang up on you or pound it into you.
We're just trying to guide you in the right direction one step at a time. It's a process. Patience grasshopper.
We're just trying to guide you in the right direction one step at a time. It's a process. Patience grasshopper.
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
Sorry I should have made my question a little more clear. I was wondering how I could get mid 12's without a stall but it looks like a stall is the only other way and a stall is a definate no thanks to dad.
There are ways but they are tedious.
You would have needed 17/8 headers, nice merge, 4" I pipe, cutout..
FAST intake and tb setup
Ewp
373s
Chrs1313 RAM air
Bad *** tune
That would get you real real close. If not, some weight reduction would get you there. Add a converter then and some 11.7-11.8 are possible.. then cam only possible low 11s.
You want to run above average you have to go above the "normal" mods and pay attention to the small things that most over look.
You would have needed 17/8 headers, nice merge, 4" I pipe, cutout..
FAST intake and tb setup
Ewp
373s
Chrs1313 RAM air
Bad *** tune
That would get you real real close. If not, some weight reduction would get you there. Add a converter then and some 11.7-11.8 are possible.. then cam only possible low 11s.
You want to run above average you have to go above the "normal" mods and pay attention to the small things that most over look.
Nobody said 12.8s weren't possibly, just highly unlikely.
If you run in some -da, I wouldn't be suprised if you see some 12.8s, spot on tune and a strong running car might even see a bit quicker.
I don't know where you run so I don't know what kind of possible da you might see.
We are saying that everything would have to be perfect for you to see that, possible just not likely.
If you run in some -da, I wouldn't be suprised if you see some 12.8s, spot on tune and a strong running car might even see a bit quicker.
I don't know where you run so I don't know what kind of possible da you might see.
We are saying that everything would have to be perfect for you to see that, possible just not likely.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
I did a DA calculator and here in Kansas City, Missouri the highest point above sea level is 1002 feet and the lowest is 720 so
I put 950 feet,
then 12.9 for 1/4 ET,
and 102 for mph trap time .
It came up with 12.779 at 102 mph for "stock to mildly modified naturally aspirated engines"
I put 950 feet,
then 12.9 for 1/4 ET,
and 102 for mph trap time .
It came up with 12.779 at 102 mph for "stock to mildly modified naturally aspirated engines"
or torsion the body.. permanently..
I mean, we ARE ignoring all supporting mods in this topic right? You start hitting less than mid 12s I'd say you need to start looking into a better rearend, be it better internal components than stock, or a replacement all together, and some subframe connectors.. at least.. then you have the torque arm..
Not to mention fuel system upgrades that may come along with pushing a car harder and harder, may not be required for JUST a h/c/i swap, but if you go with larger injectors..
I mean at 107k miles if they were anything like the 130k miles my Z has seen it's not gonna take that abuse for long before it's down with broken parts.
course.. I am coming from the perspective of a 6 owner 1 wreck Z with 130k miles that has had a very rough life and was not long fora junkyard.. if his t/a is a 1 owner or something, babied and driven to church on sunday downhill both ways.. he might be ok into the 11s, but I don't like breaking things.
Btw the "fastest" way you can get into lower times is boost. It's something I spent a lot of time looking at. These cars are pretty tight inside, so you have only a few tangible options.
also, is this your DAILY DRIVER myfirst? like.. are you gonna take this off to college when you go? This car is going to need to be RELIABLE FIRST if you are daily driving it, and fast second.
I think I've mentioned chassis/suspension components twice in this thread.
Most bad news in this thread has initially been ignored.
The OP is young and inexperienced and has some lofty goals certainly due to some poor estimations from people not too experienced with these cars. He chooses to go towards the brighter light.
With some tough love and guidance from all of us here, he's starting to come around.
Most bad news in this thread has initially been ignored.
The OP is young and inexperienced and has some lofty goals certainly due to some poor estimations from people not too experienced with these cars. He chooses to go towards the brighter light.
With some tough love and guidance from all of us here, he's starting to come around.
I can imagine it's overwhelming. I've found that even if you know "cars" in general... you don't necessarily know THESE cars.
You should have heard me trying to explain to my dad recently what an LQ4 was, LQ9 and Ls1. I don't know that he really comprehended it.. but I can't blame him, it's taken me a while and a junkyard engine to really start to wrap my head around it.
Either way, my advice is have your fun PLAY IT SAFE.. don't road race on 2 lane roads with blind curves or oncoming traffic (I'd say don't road race at all but I know it happens..) and build into it.
I grew up in trucks and suvs, so I kinda learned low traction situations without having tons of power too. I noticed stock these cars will kick to the side hard.. so it's PROBABLY real easy to lose it around a sharp turn if you're hard on the gas.
but I suppose I'm rambling now.
Op, keep us informed! I'd love to see how you do.. videos of your first run etc. I'd like to run myself one day when mu car is running good.. may be a while though.
You should have heard me trying to explain to my dad recently what an LQ4 was, LQ9 and Ls1.
I don't know that he really comprehended it.. but I can't blame him, it's taken me a while and a junkyard engine to really start to wrap my head around it. Either way, my advice is have your fun PLAY IT SAFE.. don't road race on 2 lane roads with blind curves or oncoming traffic (I'd say don't road race at all but I know it happens..) and build into it.
I grew up in trucks and suvs, so I kinda learned low traction situations without having tons of power too.
I noticed stock these cars will kick to the side hard.. so it's PROBABLY real easy to lose it around a sharp turn if you're hard on the gas. but I suppose I'm rambling now.
Op, keep us informed! I'd love to see how you do.. videos of your first run etc. I'd like to run myself one day when mu car is running good.. may be a while though.
you're seriously talking low 11s on a car with just HCI? Sounds like a good way to sheer some teeth off in the 10 bolt to me.
or torsion the body.. permanently..
I mean, we ARE ignoring all supporting mods in this topic right? You start hitting less than mid 12s I'd say you need to start looking into a better rearend, be it better internal components than stock, or a replacement all together, and some subframe connectors.. at least.. then you have the torque arm..
Not to mention fuel system upgrades that may come along with pushing a car harder and harder, may not be required for JUST a h/c/i swap, but if you go with larger injectors..
I mean at 107k miles if they were anything like the 130k miles my Z has seen it's not gonna take that abuse for long before it's down with broken parts.
course.. I am coming from the perspective of a 6 owner 1 wreck Z with 130k miles that has had a very rough life and was not long fora junkyard.. if his t/a is a 1 owner or something, babied and driven to church on sunday downhill both ways.. he might be ok into the 11s, but I don't like breaking things.
Btw the "fastest" way you can get into lower times is boost. It's something I spent a lot of time looking at. These cars are pretty tight inside, so you have only a few tangible options.
also, is this your DAILY DRIVER myfirst? like.. are you gonna take this off to college when you go? This car is going to need to be RELIABLE FIRST if you are daily driving it, and fast second.
or torsion the body.. permanently..
I mean, we ARE ignoring all supporting mods in this topic right? You start hitting less than mid 12s I'd say you need to start looking into a better rearend, be it better internal components than stock, or a replacement all together, and some subframe connectors.. at least.. then you have the torque arm..
Not to mention fuel system upgrades that may come along with pushing a car harder and harder, may not be required for JUST a h/c/i swap, but if you go with larger injectors..
I mean at 107k miles if they were anything like the 130k miles my Z has seen it's not gonna take that abuse for long before it's down with broken parts.
course.. I am coming from the perspective of a 6 owner 1 wreck Z with 130k miles that has had a very rough life and was not long fora junkyard.. if his t/a is a 1 owner or something, babied and driven to church on sunday downhill both ways.. he might be ok into the 11s, but I don't like breaking things.
Btw the "fastest" way you can get into lower times is boost. It's something I spent a lot of time looking at. These cars are pretty tight inside, so you have only a few tangible options.
also, is this your DAILY DRIVER myfirst? like.. are you gonna take this off to college when you go? This car is going to need to be RELIABLE FIRST if you are daily driving it, and fast second.
Supporting mods are a given in my book. However, I can think of a few na, heavy, stock bottom end, stock suspension, cars in the high 10-bottom 11 range, one in particular. They certainly make it easier and help but it is not a have to.
The only fuel component possibly needing upgrading for what were talking about is injectors.
The fastest easiest cheapest and reliable way is nitrous, by a long shot.
It doesn't take as much as most think to hit bottom 11s, just thought out... Like with any goal.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
I dropped my car off today so they can put the headers on. I'm not sure if we got a trans mount though. I will find out tomorrow. It's funny cause they said I will be going through transmissions if I get a stall but they had 3 boxes laying around that were labeled "torque converters". I don't know if they were for their S10 or 4th gen camaro or what but the fact that they have 3 torque converters laying around tells me that someone isn't sayin something that I should know. My dad is stuck on "no stalls" and everytime I bring up the term "stall" he gets pissed