Balancer install
09-28-2011, 08:36 PM
#1
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Balancer install What is the best way to install my underdrive balancer?? I have the option of trying it on an engine stand or in the vehicle?? I was concerned that I would not be able to put full torque to it on the engine stand (for fear of tipping it over)?? Any nifty tips or tricks?? I was trying to avoid special tools since I don't plan on doing this again for many, many years.
09-28-2011, 08:46 PM
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Try it on the stand if you got the chance. If you got a flexplate on the crank put a ratchet extension thru one of the holes in the flexplate and rotate the engine around till the extension hits where the starter bolts to and put a rag or block of wood in there to protect the metal and that will be a good stop.
With your torque wrench dont be pulling the wrench upwards or towards you. Try a downward away motion. If you got a buddy over get him to try to hold your stand in place. It should be managable yourself tho, Ive done this myself.
With your torque wrench dont be pulling the wrench upwards or towards you. Try a downward away motion. If you got a buddy over get him to try to hold your stand in place. It should be managable yourself tho, Ive done this myself.
09-28-2011, 09:00 PM
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I just did mine. Had the car on 6 inch ramps, only took the fan out (removed from the bottom), had my uncle there. It's better with 2 people, sum1 can hand you tools or a flashlight. And when you use the puller, dont be scared to tighten it a lot, the balancer will pop out, and then gradually come out.
09-28-2011, 09:24 PM
#5
I certainly hope you're properly pressing the balancer onto the crank with the correct tool, not the balancer bolt.
While many have done it without issue, some have had disastrous results when the bolt snaps or the crank threads strip. Do you really want to take the chance of being one of them?
The balancer bolt and threads in the crank are not designed for this.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...one-wrong.html
While many have done it without issue, some have had disastrous results when the bolt snaps or the crank threads strip. Do you really want to take the chance of being one of them?
The balancer bolt and threads in the crank are not designed for this.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...one-wrong.html
09-28-2011, 09:31 PM
#6
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You do not have to use a tool to install it if you heat it up around 200 degrees just slides on then tighten 255 ft lbs to seat it all the way ...with the old bolt.. then 40 ft lbs + 120 degrees with new bolt.. according to asp's instructions
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Near Green Bay, WI 
09-29-2011, 06:40 PM
#15
The March pulley I have was from a batch that was machined incorrectly.
It was so tight, that even after heating the new pulley, it bent the aircraft hardened-thick washers on the threaded rod.
A friend recommended a shot of nitrous to the crank snout, next time.
I think that there won't be a next time, because that pulley will not come off using conventional means.
It was so tight, that even after heating the new pulley, it bent the aircraft hardened-thick washers on the threaded rod.
A friend recommended a shot of nitrous to the crank snout, next time.
I think that there won't be a next time, because that pulley will not come off using conventional means.
09-29-2011, 10:59 PM
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I would do it with the engine out if possible. Or are you asking at what power level/rpm range?
