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GM Head Bolts Break?

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Old 10-09-2012, 12:00 PM
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Default GM Head Bolts Break?

I'm having new heads installed this week and I got a call saying one of the gm head bolts (new) broke off into the block as they were torquing it down. This is a reputable shop. Anyone else have this issue?
Old 10-09-2012, 12:19 PM
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Is it a reputable LSx shop or a reputable auto repair place? I've never had it happen to me and I've done both my cars. Haven't heard of it happeneing either. I suppose a bolt could have been defective. And LS heads are degreed in steps rather than torqued.
Old 10-09-2012, 12:31 PM
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Not common, but it could happen. And yes, they should be torqued to a relatively low value, and then tightened with angle instead of torque. Make sure they are doing this correctly. Too much angle and they will snap.
Old 10-09-2012, 12:37 PM
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It is more likely there was water or trash in the holes or they were over torqued than more than 1 of them was defective I would think.

It is a lot more time consuming to get all the coolant out of the holes than most people think. Simply spraying compressed air into the holes for a second won't do it. I did that several times but still was able to get a bunch out by twisting up paper towels and shoving them to the bottom. Soaked up about 2 paper towels in each hole.
Old 10-09-2012, 12:45 PM
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****, it took me longer to get all the coolant out of the holes and chase the threads than it did to remove and install the heads......i used q-tips taped to the end of a big zip tie and ARP thread chasers. So i agree with the above they probably torqued them with crap in the bolt holes
Old 10-09-2012, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Undertow74
****, it took me longer to get all the coolant out of the holes and chase the threads than it did to remove and install the heads......i used q-tips taped to the end of a big zip tie and ARP thread chasers. So i agree with the above they probably torqued them with crap in the bolt holes
A little trick I came up with when I did my H/C (and of course supporting mods like lifters and pushrods), was to take one of the old pushrods, duct tape it to a vacuum that can suck up water (like a typical shop vac/interior vacuum, whatever) and then stick it down into the holes and suck them all dry. Worked wonders. The pushrod should be just long enough to reach the bottom.

So much win.
Old 10-09-2012, 12:58 PM
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I love tips like these
Old 10-09-2012, 01:00 PM
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You also have the likelihood of cracking the block if there's water in the bolt holes. Seen it happen.
Old 10-09-2012, 03:50 PM
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Reputable LSx shop.
Old 10-09-2012, 07:35 PM
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What did the shop have to say about what caused it? I always do my major jobs at my friends garage and hes got a blowgun for an air hose with a piece of 3 foot brake line screwed into it to blow the holes out with. Works like a charm.
Old 10-10-2012, 01:41 PM
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Super unlikely that its the bolt or engines fault. I'd lean towards "they f*cked up".
Old 10-10-2012, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Way2Fast
You also have the likelihood of cracking the block if there's water in the bolt holes. Seen it happen.
Yes, this happens. Nothing like a long 2 inch crack along the side of the block. This is why we always suggest ARP STUDS. Once they are set in, you never have to mess with them again. It costs more but in the end ...

If it's a reputable shop then I would lean towards the block or bolt but hey ... mistakes can happen to the best of us.

ARP Cylinder Head Studs [12-POINT NUTS] (1997-2003 GM LS1 & LS6)

ARP Cylinder Head Studs [12-POINT NUTS] (2004-2011 GM LS Series)



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