Solid Mounts Throttle Body Alignment FML!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 309
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Solid Mounts Throttle Body Alignment FML! So, put some solid motor mounts on and now the throttle body doesn't align to my SLP lid. It's off by over an inch. I knew it would raise the motor..but I didn't realize it would cause a gap like this.
Any fix for this? Maybe a lid that angles upwards more? What has everyone else done?
Any fix for this? Maybe a lid that angles upwards more? What has everyone else done?
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 309
Likes: 1
I have some 1/2 aluminum plate lying around. I could fab some kmember spacers and get longer bolts, I bet that would get the throttlebody back to where it should be.
Seems like a PITA and I haven't heard of other people having to do this though with solid motor mounts. And I would need to get another alignment
Seems like a PITA and I haven't heard of other people having to do this though with solid motor mounts. And I would need to get another alignment
I was going to reply earlier but thought my opinions were
not very solid-solution. But I guess at this point you'll
take anything.
Looks to me like the mounts are too high, not too low.
I wonder whether the mounts are installed in a wrong
orientation (do not know whether that is possible) or
maybe the wrong part. Anyway, adding shims will go
the wrong way unless you are up for changing the
lid neck angle a lot.
Now if the lid is ABS, that's a pretty workable plastic;
solvent weld, heat weld, heat form are all practical. I
think I'd try cutting almost all the way around except
for right on top, get the MAF-TB in a straight shot and
then fix up the neck for what works. You can find ABS
sheet on eBay, cheap.
Fiberglass is also not a bad option. That, at least you can
always do over.
not very solid-solution. But I guess at this point you'll
take anything.
Looks to me like the mounts are too high, not too low.
I wonder whether the mounts are installed in a wrong
orientation (do not know whether that is possible) or
maybe the wrong part. Anyway, adding shims will go
the wrong way unless you are up for changing the
lid neck angle a lot.
Now if the lid is ABS, that's a pretty workable plastic;
solvent weld, heat weld, heat form are all practical. I
think I'd try cutting almost all the way around except
for right on top, get the MAF-TB in a straight shot and
then fix up the neck for what works. You can find ABS
sheet on eBay, cheap.
Fiberglass is also not a bad option. That, at least you can
always do over.
If it's an SLP lid, they don't mind a heat gun. Just be slow and methodical. This is coming from a guy that used Spoh solid mounts, which DO raise the motor. It was no biggie for me.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2008
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Likes: 1
I put the stock maf to throttle body adapter on (luckily I still had it) the heat worked, I guess I just suck at it. Clamping the MAF to the lid when heating it up is a good tip..wish I would have thought of it!
if you're willing to just connect those then its an easy fix..you have plenty of options, fiberglass, silicon rubber or even a stainless pipe and a cone filter. question is do solid mounts make the engine sit this way?
The Spohn solid mounts do, the all in ones. (Pedestal / stand all one piece)
The BEST option if you're afraid of the height would prob be the Spohn lightweight stands, and MWC or UMI solid mounts.
I just didn't like the idea of a bolt holding that together. Things rattle and wear, and the next thing you know you've wallowed out the pedestal holes.
I personally liked my Spohn solid mounts. Made the cam swap and oil pump / O-ring swap easier too.
The BEST option if you're afraid of the height would prob be the Spohn lightweight stands, and MWC or UMI solid mounts.
I just didn't like the idea of a bolt holding that together. Things rattle and wear, and the next thing you know you've wallowed out the pedestal holes.
I personally liked my Spohn solid mounts. Made the cam swap and oil pump / O-ring swap easier too.
The Spohn solid mounts do, the all in ones. (Pedestal / stand all one piece)
The BEST option if you're afraid of the height would prob be the Spohn lightweight stands, and MWC or UMI solid mounts.
I just didn't like the idea of a bolt holding that together. Things rattle and wear, and the next thing you know you've wallowed out the pedestal holes.
I personally liked my Spohn solid mounts. Made the cam swap and oil pump / O-ring swap easier too.
The BEST option if you're afraid of the height would prob be the Spohn lightweight stands, and MWC or UMI solid mounts.
I just didn't like the idea of a bolt holding that together. Things rattle and wear, and the next thing you know you've wallowed out the pedestal holes.
I personally liked my Spohn solid mounts. Made the cam swap and oil pump / O-ring swap easier too.
cutting the lid and redirecting its outlet seems like it could work.
As I stated, I never had to USE the heatgun, but I could have while I still used a MAF. I too used the stock bellows for a while, as the smooth SLP bellows WILL be USELESS. Should be no reason at all to cut the lid anywhere. Simply clamp on a MAF end (I wouldn't use the whole MAF) and heat the neck enough to bend it "up" to an acceptable angle with the TB.
When I went speed density it was a 4" piece of aluminum pipe and 2 silicone couplers. Very easy, daily driven, and I never missed the MAF. If you have a tuner worth any salt, he'll nail it.
Remember, temperature does NOT affect speed density tunes. They run off the O2 sensors. ALTITUDE CHANGES affect SD tunes.
Not really; I think we all know by now that every car is different in one aspect or another. Some Y pipes or headers fit some cars perfect, while others can't line them up for the life of them.
As I stated, I never had to USE the heatgun, but I could have while I still used a MAF. I too used the stock bellows for a while, as the smooth SLP bellows WILL be USELESS. Should be no reason at all to cut the lid anywhere. Simply clamp on a MAF end (I wouldn't use the whole MAF) and heat the neck enough to bend it "up" to an acceptable angle with the TB.
When I went speed density it was a 4" piece of aluminum pipe and 2 silicone couplers. Very easy, daily driven, and I never missed the MAF. If you have a tuner worth any salt, he'll nail it.
Remember, temperature does NOT affect speed density tunes. They run off the O2 sensors. ALTITUDE CHANGES affect SD tunes.
As I stated, I never had to USE the heatgun, but I could have while I still used a MAF. I too used the stock bellows for a while, as the smooth SLP bellows WILL be USELESS. Should be no reason at all to cut the lid anywhere. Simply clamp on a MAF end (I wouldn't use the whole MAF) and heat the neck enough to bend it "up" to an acceptable angle with the TB.
When I went speed density it was a 4" piece of aluminum pipe and 2 silicone couplers. Very easy, daily driven, and I never missed the MAF. If you have a tuner worth any salt, he'll nail it.
Remember, temperature does NOT affect speed density tunes. They run off the O2 sensors. ALTITUDE CHANGES affect SD tunes.
interesting. ive never dealt with solid mounts and never knew it differs from car to another.
