critique my ls1 to ls6 conversion and upgrades
critique my ls1 to ls6 conversion and upgrades Alright so I should have some extra cash by the end of summer and I really want to upgrade my stock 02 LS1 to LS6. I don't want to go crazy and hurt my drivability or fuel economy and I don't want to break the bank either. I basically want to do some 243 or 799 heads along with an LS6 cam. At the same time i'll be doing the ls1 to ls6 PCV swap and I decided I'll be saying F*** California I want long tube headers! I'm not sure where is the best place to be picking up the parts im open to recommendations. Basically my goal is a good fun street car that I can tear up the track when autocrossing. Here is what I have so far
799 Heads $355 +rebuild and mild port +$640
LS6 cam ~$150 or maybe GT2-3 cam from Lingenfelter ~$390 or custom baby cam grind from sponsor
LS2 CLOYES Part # C3220 from rockauto ~$30
Morel 5290 link bar lifters from CoSpeed $340
Texas Speed deluxe head and cam bolt and gasket set ~$316
11/32 Push rods from Manton length?
Stock Rockers with trunion upgrade from BTR ~$120
Injectors stock...
LS6 / LS2 Engine Valley Cover Improved Racing ~$119
Valley cover plug and 10" of hose for conversion ~$10
Powerbond 25% underdrive ~$200 Texas speed? or used? +AC and accessory belt
TSP LT stainless headers and Catted Y Pipe $789.98 . Will catted y pipe hang lower than non catted? I have SLP y pipe and its clearance is OK but I don't want to go much lower.
Stall??? Since this is not really for drag racing but more for drivability and autocross I would like to get a 9 3/4" stall for less rotational mass but I would like to get it with all the stock features and close to stock stall speed. suggestions on this?
and of coarse a dyno tune once completed ~$600
total ~$3069.98+head rebuild+push rods+Lifters+tax and shipping
Please let me know if I am missing anything or if you have any input on my selected parts. Thanks
799 Heads $355 +rebuild and mild port +$640
LS6 cam ~$150 or maybe GT2-3 cam from Lingenfelter ~$390 or custom baby cam grind from sponsor
LS2 CLOYES Part # C3220 from rockauto ~$30
Morel 5290 link bar lifters from CoSpeed $340
Texas Speed deluxe head and cam bolt and gasket set ~$316
11/32 Push rods from Manton length?
Stock Rockers with trunion upgrade from BTR ~$120
Injectors stock...
LS6 / LS2 Engine Valley Cover Improved Racing ~$119
Valley cover plug and 10" of hose for conversion ~$10
Powerbond 25% underdrive ~$200 Texas speed? or used? +AC and accessory belt
TSP LT stainless headers and Catted Y Pipe $789.98 . Will catted y pipe hang lower than non catted? I have SLP y pipe and its clearance is OK but I don't want to go much lower.
Stall??? Since this is not really for drag racing but more for drivability and autocross I would like to get a 9 3/4" stall for less rotational mass but I would like to get it with all the stock features and close to stock stall speed. suggestions on this?
and of coarse a dyno tune once completed ~$600
total ~$3069.98+head rebuild+push rods+Lifters+tax and shipping
Please let me know if I am missing anything or if you have any input on my selected parts. Thanks
Last edited by Cpt.Derrek; Nov 24, 2015 at 05:20 PM.
I was going to do an LS6 cam like you but went a little bigger but keeping a stock idle/drivability and not worry about emissions. Look at your head springs while your in there. I did not see pushrods on your list - you will need those. My cam is on a stock stall and is fine, barely any push on the brakes but I will be going to a baby 2600 stall to keep it mild and stock manners, again that is my preference.
I would recommend going with a custom grind & little bigger around the 220/220 range to compliment the heads vs. LS6 cam. Yes, I lost about 40 miles per tankful of gas but way more fun to drive and my lead foot contributes to the lower around town MPG. I just went with an LS2 chain on stock block and used my stock injectors, as well as stock oil pump. Oil pump does not cost that much but I don't have any issues with my stock pump or pressure but the deluxe gasket kit w/bolt, double roller, etc., adds up $$. You can save some money with standard LS2 chain & gasket kit without sacrifice on a baby cam and upgrade your cam to a custom grind.
I'm glad I did a baby cam now that I am use to the performance. It was day and night from my LS1 cam but now it just seems stock to me as time has gone on. I'm sure I would have been disappointed with just the LS6 cam IMO.
I would recommend going with a custom grind & little bigger around the 220/220 range to compliment the heads vs. LS6 cam. Yes, I lost about 40 miles per tankful of gas but way more fun to drive and my lead foot contributes to the lower around town MPG. I just went with an LS2 chain on stock block and used my stock injectors, as well as stock oil pump. Oil pump does not cost that much but I don't have any issues with my stock pump or pressure but the deluxe gasket kit w/bolt, double roller, etc., adds up $$. You can save some money with standard LS2 chain & gasket kit without sacrifice on a baby cam and upgrade your cam to a custom grind.
I'm glad I did a baby cam now that I am use to the performance. It was day and night from my LS1 cam but now it just seems stock to me as time has gone on. I'm sure I would have been disappointed with just the LS6 cam IMO.
Last edited by BBATCAR; May 22, 2015 at 10:05 PM.
I was going to do an LS6 cam like you but went a little bigger but keeping a stock idle/drivability and not worry about emissions. Look at your head springs while your in there. I did not see pushrods on your list - you will need those. My cam is on a stock stall and is fine, barely any push on the brakes but I will be going to a baby 2600 stall to keep it mild and stock manners, again that is my preference.
I would recommend going with a custom grind & little bigger around the 220/220 range to compliment the heads vs. LS6 cam. Yes, I lost about 40 miles per tankful of gas but way more fun to drive and my lead foot contributes to the lower around town MPG. I just went with an LS2 chain on stock block and used my stock injectors, as well as stock oil pump. Oil pump does not cost that much but I don't have any issues with my stock pump or pressure but the deluxe gasket kit w/bolt, double roller, etc., adds up $$. You can save some money with standard LS2 chain & gasket kit without sacrifice on a baby cam and upgrade your cam to a custom grind.
I'm glad I did a baby cam now that I am use to the performance. It was day and night from my LS1 cam but now it just seems stock to me as time has gone on. I'm sure I would have been disappointed with just the LS6 cam IMO.
I would recommend going with a custom grind & little bigger around the 220/220 range to compliment the heads vs. LS6 cam. Yes, I lost about 40 miles per tankful of gas but way more fun to drive and my lead foot contributes to the lower around town MPG. I just went with an LS2 chain on stock block and used my stock injectors, as well as stock oil pump. Oil pump does not cost that much but I don't have any issues with my stock pump or pressure but the deluxe gasket kit w/bolt, double roller, etc., adds up $$. You can save some money with standard LS2 chain & gasket kit without sacrifice on a baby cam and upgrade your cam to a custom grind.
I'm glad I did a baby cam now that I am use to the performance. It was day and night from my LS1 cam but now it just seems stock to me as time has gone on. I'm sure I would have been disappointed with just the LS6 cam IMO.
oh yes push rods, was thinking I might reuse my old ones... any recommendations brand? what size do I need for 243/799 heads? 7.4 good? some say maybe slightly shorter? I know if I get the lightweight valves I need 7.35
ok so stock injectors and I figured since I have an 02 it already has the LS6 oil pump so I should be good with that. Thanks!
As far as the timing chain you recommend just an LS2? Would it not be worth it to get double roller? everyone says double roller and I don't mind spending an extra 100 or 2 on something that won't slack on me and I like the idea of having a tensioner on it.
lingenfelter GT2-3 cam would be the way to go if you want to maintain a very stock like build with a potential future in FI. 2400-2600 stall would be ideal, but my buddy uses the GT2-3 on a bone stock converter in his 04 GTO with no issues whatsoever. Do some research on the cam, its basically a beefed up LS6 cam. Don't see any need for a double roller chain, cloyes LS2 factory replacement chain kit that you can pick up on rockauto would be plenty. Unless your planning on a full race application, no reason for a double roller chain. I just had my 243 heads reconditioned for $320 at my local shop and that was including a broken exhaust manifold bolt removal. Had them install LS6 p/n 12499224 "blue" springs from scoggin dickey, and new valve stem seals, and heads are good as new. Although i'd recommend a heavier spring for anything over .550 lift, im only using a schneider stage 1 in my build.
lingenfelter GT2-3 cam would be the way to go if you want to maintain a very stock like build with a potential future in FI. 2400-2600 stall would be ideal, but my buddy uses the GT2-3 on a bone stock converter in his 04 GTO with no issues whatsoever. Do some research on the cam, its basically a beefed up LS6 cam. Don't see any need for a double roller chain, cloyes LS2 factory replacement chain kit that you can pick up on rockauto would be plenty. Unless your planning on a full race application, no reason for a double roller chain. I just had my 243 heads reconditioned for $320 at my local shop and that was including a broken exhaust manifold bolt removal. Had them install LS6 p/n 12499224 "blue" springs from scoggin dickey, and new valve stem seals, and heads are good as new. Although i'd recommend a heavier spring for anything over .550 lift, im only using a schneider stage 1 in my build.
So if I go eith the GT2-3 cam would those "blue" springs work best? I have a buddy that has an extra yellow springs that he would sell me for cheap.
hmm looking up that cam makes me very tempted... haha do did he notice any fuel economy change normal driving? and thanks for the tip on the chain, I guess i'll just rock an LS2 chain, should I get new gears with it too?
So if I go eith the GT2-3 cam would those "blue" springs work best? I have a buddy that has an extra yellow springs that he would sell me for cheap.
So if I go eith the GT2-3 cam would those "blue" springs work best? I have a buddy that has an extra yellow springs that he would sell me for cheap.
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Damn that chain and gear set is cheap! interesting it doesn't say its for 97-2004 LS1 though, but I assume that's because its for the LS2? A lot of good words about those chains though!
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Verdad Gallardo Yeh not sure about the compatibility, it depends on your cam position sensor pickup style. That has a 1x reluctor on the cam gear for cam position sensors on the cover.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
Alright so I should have some extra cash by the end of summer and I really want to upgrade my stock 02 LS1 to LS6. I don't want to go crazy and hurt my drivability or fuel economy and I don't want to break the bank either. I basically want to do some 243 or 799 heads along with an LS6 cam. At the same time i'll be doing the ls1 to ls6 PCV swap and I decided I'll be saying F*** California I want long tube headers! I'm not sure where is the best place to be picking up the parts im open to recommendations. Basically my goal is a good fun street car that I can tear up the track when autocrossing. Here is what I have so far
243 or 799 heads ~$450 +valve job? yellow springs? used Ls1tech?
LS6 cam ~$150 used LS1tech? orr maybe GT2-3 cam from Lingenfelter ~$390
LS2 CLOYES Part # C3220 from rockauto ~$30
Lifters LS7? ~$140
GM LS2/LS3/LS7/L98 Lifter Tray Texas Speed ~$36
Texas Speed deluxe head and cam bolt and gasket set ~$316
Texas Speed Chromemoly 7.4 pushrods ~$110
Injectors stock...
LS6 / LS2 Engine Valley Cover Improved Racing ~$119
Valley cover plug and 10" of hose for conversion ~$10
Powerbond 25% underdrive ~$200 Texas speed? or used? +AC and accessory belt
Pacesetter long tube ceramic coated and pacesetter off road y pipe ~$500 (or catted?) I am concerned with ground clearance with these and I'm not sure which to go with, I like keeping the headers ceramic coated and pacesetter has some nice prices and it looks like their y pipe is fairly tucked up high. Will catted y pipe hang lower than non catted? I have SLP y pipe and its clearance is OK but I don't want to go much lower.
Stall??? Since this is not really for drag racing but more for drivability and autocross I would like to get a 9 3/4" stall for less rotational mass but I would like to get it with all the stock features and close to stock stall speed. suggestions on this?
and of coarse a dyno tune once completed ~$600
total ~$2721+tax and shipping
Please let me know if I am missing anything or if you have any input on my selected parts. Thanks
243 or 799 heads ~$450 +valve job? yellow springs? used Ls1tech?
LS6 cam ~$150 used LS1tech? orr maybe GT2-3 cam from Lingenfelter ~$390
LS2 CLOYES Part # C3220 from rockauto ~$30
Lifters LS7? ~$140
GM LS2/LS3/LS7/L98 Lifter Tray Texas Speed ~$36
Texas Speed deluxe head and cam bolt and gasket set ~$316
Texas Speed Chromemoly 7.4 pushrods ~$110
Injectors stock...
LS6 / LS2 Engine Valley Cover Improved Racing ~$119
Valley cover plug and 10" of hose for conversion ~$10
Powerbond 25% underdrive ~$200 Texas speed? or used? +AC and accessory belt
Pacesetter long tube ceramic coated and pacesetter off road y pipe ~$500 (or catted?) I am concerned with ground clearance with these and I'm not sure which to go with, I like keeping the headers ceramic coated and pacesetter has some nice prices and it looks like their y pipe is fairly tucked up high. Will catted y pipe hang lower than non catted? I have SLP y pipe and its clearance is OK but I don't want to go much lower.
Stall??? Since this is not really for drag racing but more for drivability and autocross I would like to get a 9 3/4" stall for less rotational mass but I would like to get it with all the stock features and close to stock stall speed. suggestions on this?
and of coarse a dyno tune once completed ~$600
total ~$2721+tax and shipping
Please let me know if I am missing anything or if you have any input on my selected parts. Thanks
If you want to compete in auto-x adding power will NOT help, and usually only hurt your times as the car will just want to oversteer more. Engine mods will also bump you into an extremely tough class to compete in (like full on race car class).
I occasionally autox my car and sometimes regret adding power to it as it only made it more difficult to drive hard.
I would honestly suggesting doing suspension, brakes and tire first before adding any more power beyond bolt ons.
-Koni sa/strano springs and swaybars setup with a fays2 watts link, blank rotors and hawk hps pads, and some sticky tires, the car will be total monster in the corners.
Before you go adding power make sure you really know your goals.
If you want to compete in auto-x adding power will NOT help, and usually only hurt your times as the car will just want to oversteer more. Engine mods will also bump you into an extremely tough class to compete in (like full on race car class).
I occasionally autox my car and sometimes regret adding power to it as it only made it more difficult to drive hard.
I would honestly suggesting doing suspension, brakes and tire first before adding any more power beyond bolt ons.
-Koni sa/strano springs and swaybars setup with a fays2 watts link, blank rotors and hawk hps pads, and some sticky tires, the car will be total monster in the corners.
If you want to compete in auto-x adding power will NOT help, and usually only hurt your times as the car will just want to oversteer more. Engine mods will also bump you into an extremely tough class to compete in (like full on race car class).
I occasionally autox my car and sometimes regret adding power to it as it only made it more difficult to drive hard.
I would honestly suggesting doing suspension, brakes and tire first before adding any more power beyond bolt ons.
-Koni sa/strano springs and swaybars setup with a fays2 watts link, blank rotors and hawk hps pads, and some sticky tires, the car will be total monster in the corners.
Here is my suspension setup if you were interested.
UMI 2 point bolt on SFC
UMI Adjustable Torque arm
Founders 3 piece on car adjustable lower control arms
Founders rod end adjustable PHB
Founders lower control arm relocation braket
SLP Bilstein Shocks
Eibach Prokit Springs
New Moog upper and lower ball joints
Powerstop drilled and slotted Rotors with powerstop extreme pads
Russell Braded steel brake lines
Nitto NT555 Extreme tires 275/40-17 front 275/35-18 rear
Also have my battery relocated to the spare tire location
Hey thanks very much for your input BBATCAR! ok so well my goal is not to get that much power out of the engine, I feel I would like to go FI if I wanted some serious power, also in the small chance that I wouldn't be able to find a to smog my car I would like the option of slapping my old cali legal junk on just in case as a fail safe, with that being said I'd really like to stay with an LS6 cam. If I didn't live in this communist state with super high gas prices and smog ***** my choice might be different.
oh yes push rods, was thinking I might reuse my old ones... any recommendations brand? what size do I need for 243/799 heads? 7.4 good? some say maybe slightly shorter? I know if I get the lightweight valves I need 7.35
ok so stock injectors and I figured since I have an 02 it already has the LS6 oil pump so I should be good with that. Thanks!
As far as the timing chain you recommend just an LS2? Would it not be worth it to get double roller? everyone says double roller and I don't mind spending an extra 100 or 2 on something that won't slack on me and I like the idea of having a tensioner on it.
oh yes push rods, was thinking I might reuse my old ones... any recommendations brand? what size do I need for 243/799 heads? 7.4 good? some say maybe slightly shorter? I know if I get the lightweight valves I need 7.35
ok so stock injectors and I figured since I have an 02 it already has the LS6 oil pump so I should be good with that. Thanks!
As far as the timing chain you recommend just an LS2? Would it not be worth it to get double roller? everyone says double roller and I don't mind spending an extra 100 or 2 on something that won't slack on me and I like the idea of having a tensioner on it.
Mine goal was some more power, pass smog without hassle and keep "stock" drivability. I was able to do so with CNC 799 heads and 221/221 cam. I pass smog all the time - if you go over a 224/224 cam then you start to chance passing but a good tuner may take care of that. I did not want to hassle the headers so I'm on stock manifolds. You are looking at 15 HP vs. 30 HP when you compare the LS6 cam to an aftermarket one. Just food for thought if you are going to spend your money on Heads/Cam. GT2-3 is a good choice as well.
Any set of harden push rods will do and is a must versus stock pushrods - they do not cost much - mine are 7.4. If you had a huge cam then maybe a double roller but LS6 or baby cam works well with just an LS2 chain which is an upgrade to the LS1. I did heads/cam, pushrods, chain and gaskets. Car runs great and is very reliable. Although you can use a stock stall, a 2600 stall would be optimal. It's a blast to drive. Hope that helps.
Last edited by BBATCAR; May 25, 2015 at 07:19 PM.
I had a fays2 watts link in my Camaro. Got it back when it first came out. Made a day and night difference in the car. The rear end felt like it was glued to the road.
I'd second going for suspension mods first. Especially if you have a set budget and emissions to worry about. One thing goes wrong and you are going to be hitting up your bank account big time. Many times you can't even use all the power you have unless you live in a rural area.
I'd second going for suspension mods first. Especially if you have a set budget and emissions to worry about. One thing goes wrong and you are going to be hitting up your bank account big time. Many times you can't even use all the power you have unless you live in a rural area.
Like others have stated you need to know what your goals are. You will get more power throughout the power band but it will not be "the most power " you can get. I may have misunderstood your goals.
Mine goal was some more power, pass smog without hassle and keep "stock" drivability. I was able to do so with CNC 799 heads and 221/221 cam. I pass smog all the time - if you go over a 224/224 cam then you start to chance passing but a good tuner may take care of that. I did not want to hassle the headers so I'm on stock manifolds. You are looking at 15 HP vs. 30 HP when you compare the LS6 cam to an aftermarket one. Just food for thought if you are going to spend your money on Heads/Cam. GT2-3 is a good choice as well.
Any set of harden push rods will do and is a must versus stock pushrods - they do not cost much - mine are 7.4. If you had a huge cam then maybe a double roller but LS6 or baby cam works well with just an LS2 chain which is an upgrade to the LS1. I did heads/cam, pushrods, chain and gaskets. Car runs great and is very reliable. Although you can use a stock stall, a 2600 stall would be optimal. It's a blast to drive. Hope that helps.
Mine goal was some more power, pass smog without hassle and keep "stock" drivability. I was able to do so with CNC 799 heads and 221/221 cam. I pass smog all the time - if you go over a 224/224 cam then you start to chance passing but a good tuner may take care of that. I did not want to hassle the headers so I'm on stock manifolds. You are looking at 15 HP vs. 30 HP when you compare the LS6 cam to an aftermarket one. Just food for thought if you are going to spend your money on Heads/Cam. GT2-3 is a good choice as well.
Any set of harden push rods will do and is a must versus stock pushrods - they do not cost much - mine are 7.4. If you had a huge cam then maybe a double roller but LS6 or baby cam works well with just an LS2 chain which is an upgrade to the LS1. I did heads/cam, pushrods, chain and gaskets. Car runs great and is very reliable. Although you can use a stock stall, a 2600 stall would be optimal. It's a blast to drive. Hope that helps.
I had a fays2 watts link in my Camaro. Got it back when it first came out. Made a day and night difference in the car. The rear end felt like it was glued to the road.
I'd second going for suspension mods first. Especially if you have a set budget and emissions to worry about. One thing goes wrong and you are going to be hitting up your bank account big time. Many times you can't even use all the power you have unless you live in a rural area.
I'd second going for suspension mods first. Especially if you have a set budget and emissions to worry about. One thing goes wrong and you are going to be hitting up your bank account big time. Many times you can't even use all the power you have unless you live in a rural area.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Alright so I should have some extra cash by the end of summer and I really want to upgrade my stock 02 LS1 to LS6. I don't want to go crazy and hurt my drivability or fuel economy and I don't want to break the bank either. I basically want to do some 243 or 799 heads along with an LS6 cam. At the same time i'll be doing the ls1 to ls6 PCV swap and I decided I'll be saying F*** California I want long tube headers! I'm not sure where is the best place to be picking up the parts im open to recommendations. Basically my goal is a good fun street car that I can tear up the track when autocrossing. Here is what I have so far
243 or 799 heads ~$450 +valve job? yellow springs? used Ls1tech?
LS6 cam ~$150 used LS1tech? orr maybe GT2-3 cam from Lingenfelter ~$390
LS2 CLOYES Part # C3220 from rockauto ~$30
Lifters LS7? ~$140
GM LS2/LS3/LS7/L98 Lifter Tray Texas Speed ~$36
Texas Speed deluxe head and cam bolt and gasket set ~$316
Texas Speed Chromemoly 7.4 pushrods ~$110
Injectors stock...
LS6 / LS2 Engine Valley Cover Improved Racing ~$119
Valley cover plug and 10" of hose for conversion ~$10
Powerbond 25% underdrive ~$200 Texas speed? or used? +AC and accessory belt
Pacesetter long tube ceramic coated and pacesetter off road y pipe ~$500 (or catted?) I am concerned with ground clearance with these and I'm not sure which to go with, I like keeping the headers ceramic coated and pacesetter has some nice prices and it looks like their y pipe is fairly tucked up high. Will catted y pipe hang lower than non catted? I have SLP y pipe and its clearance is OK but I don't want to go much lower.
Stall??? Since this is not really for drag racing but more for drivability and autocross I would like to get a 9 3/4" stall for less rotational mass but I would like to get it with all the stock features and close to stock stall speed. suggestions on this?
and of coarse a dyno tune once completed ~$600
total ~$2721+tax and shipping
Please let me know if I am missing anything or if you have any input on my selected parts. Thanks
243 or 799 heads ~$450 +valve job? yellow springs? used Ls1tech?
LS6 cam ~$150 used LS1tech? orr maybe GT2-3 cam from Lingenfelter ~$390
LS2 CLOYES Part # C3220 from rockauto ~$30
Lifters LS7? ~$140
GM LS2/LS3/LS7/L98 Lifter Tray Texas Speed ~$36
Texas Speed deluxe head and cam bolt and gasket set ~$316
Texas Speed Chromemoly 7.4 pushrods ~$110
Injectors stock...
LS6 / LS2 Engine Valley Cover Improved Racing ~$119
Valley cover plug and 10" of hose for conversion ~$10
Powerbond 25% underdrive ~$200 Texas speed? or used? +AC and accessory belt
Pacesetter long tube ceramic coated and pacesetter off road y pipe ~$500 (or catted?) I am concerned with ground clearance with these and I'm not sure which to go with, I like keeping the headers ceramic coated and pacesetter has some nice prices and it looks like their y pipe is fairly tucked up high. Will catted y pipe hang lower than non catted? I have SLP y pipe and its clearance is OK but I don't want to go much lower.
Stall??? Since this is not really for drag racing but more for drivability and autocross I would like to get a 9 3/4" stall for less rotational mass but I would like to get it with all the stock features and close to stock stall speed. suggestions on this?
and of coarse a dyno tune once completed ~$600
total ~$2721+tax and shipping
Please let me know if I am missing anything or if you have any input on my selected parts. Thanks
why do you say that? it can be found for $150 used and its a decent bump over the ls1 cam without sacrificing much fuel economy or drivability.
If you are dead set on LS6 cam you are really going from a stock cam to stock cam, and yes, there will be some increase in power but not as much as an aftermarket spec'd cam.
My only point by saying it was a "day and night difference" is that the power pulled hard from low to high without sacrificing drivability and surprised everyone who rode in my car prior to the cam.
My statement about "getting use to the aftermarket cam and it then feeling stock after a while" points to why I'm glad I did not go with an LS6 cam. After a few months of driving the car - it does not seem that I have a cam in the car - just a faster car, LOL.
I was like you and was going to go with an LS6 cam but I learned that properly spec'd by one of the vendors, you will get more power than an LS6 cam and keep great drivability without going over the top with power. My cam is so "stealthy" no one even knows I have a cam in the car. It drives like stock and now that I am use to it, I'm really glad I went slightly bigger compared to an LS6 cam. This is all on a stock stall.
LS6 cam is good up top (highway speeds) but I wanted some power throughout (low to high). Call some vendors and give them your goals and they will make recommendations on what cam or grind to get. Martin @ Tick was a great resource for me. It is your car and you need to do what works best for you. I would at least research before going with an LS6 cam, especially if you are going spend on heads.