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I had this mod on my first WS6, and I was always impressed with it. I have been trying to track one down for the new car, but no luck so far. I know Speed Inc used to sell them, but I don't see anything on their site.
Anyone know where to get one of these anymore (or have one in a box they would be willing to sell)?
Last edited by Trans Am WS6 420; 02-11-2016 at 09:57 AM.
Unless I'm not understanding something, I don't believe that does quite the same thing. The BG Ram Air setup removes the rain baffles from the hood, smoothes the passage, and seals to the WS6 raised airbox. This looks similar to a FTRA setup.
Unless I'm not understanding something, I don't believe that does quite the same thing. The BG Ram Air setup removes the rain baffles from the hood, smoothes the passage, and seals to the WS6 raised airbox. This looks similar to a FTRA setup.
I would think there is enough demand for a sponsor to make a small batch of these. Hell, I would think these days you could pump them out on a home 3d printer if you were slick enough.
I have the JAAM Ram Air kit which is basically the same thing. Removes baffles, seals hood scoops to lid and has a lower air 'smoother' plate. Here are some pics of it:
I got mine from WS6 store, I remember when installing it you could definitely feel a difference so it's not just a cosmetic mod.
I have the JAAM Ram Air kit which is basically the same thing. Removes baffles, seals hood scoops to lid and has a lower air 'smoother' plate. Here are some pics of it:
I got mine from WS6 store, I remember when installing it you could definitely feel a difference so it's not just a cosmetic mod.
I was looking at that kit. It's pretty close, but the thing going I like about the BG kit is that after you remove the baffles, it had pieces that went in the hood that smoothed out and channeled the air.
These are the instructions right off Brian's old site. I don't have the photos though. I was lucky enough to find a used, but complete kit last year. They are very hard to find!
Installation and Removal Instructions
BG/RamAir Mod P/N 00-01
A Note of Caution!!
IfÂdumyouÂdumare installing any of these components, do so at your own risk!
Read all instructions very carefully before starting the job, believe WS6 Performance Innovations when we say "read all the instructions" we would hate to have you go back and have to un-install most of the components because you missed something in the beginningÂdumJ
Make sure you use proper safety equipment when installing any of these parts. Wear protective gloves, eyeglasses or goggles. If you need to lie down on your back in the engine bay make sure you put plenty of padding down such as blankets or sheets to protect your body from being cut or bruised by the protruding parts of the car. Padding will also protect the car parts from being crushed. If possible get a friend to assist you with the installation; it will go a lot faster with someone helping.
Âdum
BG/RamAir Mod P/N 00-01
See Pictures 1 thru 15
Rear Baffles must be removed for this mod to fit on hood, and the Front Baffles should also be removed for optimum performance gains.
Tools Required: Torx Driver / Phillips Head Screw Driver / Cleaning Solution and Rags / Razor Blade / Duck Tape
These instructions are for the installation of the BG/RamAir Mod only, not the BG/RamMod along with the TPF's
Preparation before getting started:
Before you start, clean and wash all surfaces that you will be working on.ÂdumThoroughlyclean off the areas on the hood where the mod will be bolting too. Clean off the entire Air Box, inside, outside, and especially the front face. Clean off the front of the Lid where the metal clips are located. Also clean the area under the metal lip where the Helper Strip is going to be taped too (see pic # 10).
Caution: The underside of the lip is very sharp, take care when wiping off.
Take some Duct tape and strip off about 3 feet of material. Fasten one end on the hood latch bar located on the under side of the hood. Now take the other end and wrap it around the metal support beams down by the where the hood latches when fully closed. You can adjust the length of the tape so that the hood stays propped open at a convenient height (see pic #1 ). You can work on it without having to constantly pull the hood down to a comfortable level.
See pic # 2 to view the BG/RamAir Mod and Gasket. First remove the screens from the nostril opening on the hood; use a Torx Driver to do this. Take the supplied hardware (see pic # 3) and set up each screw before hand. Put the lock washer on each of the 8 screws first, then put on one regular washer. Holding the BG/RamAir Mod horizontally in your hands so that the front surface is facing the sky, drop in each of the partially assembled screws into each of the 8 holes. Now take the Front Gasket Assembly and carefully clip it into place (DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PULL ON THE SNAP DETAILS TO GET THE GASKET IN PLACE), the ABS plate that the Gasket is attached to will snap or click into place with firm pressure applied to it. Once you have done this you will not have to worry about the screws falling out during installation (see pic # 4).
Make sure there is plenty of light aimed inside the hood so when you drop some of the hardware, and I guarantee you'll be dropping the hardwareÂdumJÂdum, you can pick it up without having to grope around in the dark. Now you are ready to install the BG/RamAir Mod onto the hood. There is only one way the Main part can fit into the hood; the side with the 1/16" gasket faces the opening on the hood. Carefully line up the screws with the existing holes and slide the BG/RamAir Mod into position (see pic # 13), be careful not to scratch the hood with the ends of the screws. Once all the screws are lined up with the holes and pushed through to the inside of the hood you can support the BG/RamAir Mod with one hand while coming in through the nostril openings with your other hand to install the hardware. First slide the washer over the screw that's sticking out through where the rivets were (see pic # 5). Next put the lock washer over the screw, and finally thread the wing nut onto the screw and tighten as hard as you can using only your fingers repeat 7 more times and the BG/RamAir Mod is installed!
Now you must tape the Helper Strip onto the metal flange that the Air Box rests on, again make sure this area is thoroughly cleaned off and watch out for sharp edges! Peel off the protective backing (see pic # 9) and press the Strip firmly into place keeping it centrally located and make sure the front of the Strip is flush with the front of the metal flange (see pic # 10). The Strip is only necessary if the Gasket does not line up with the metal flange, as long as the foam comes in contact with the metal flange by either touching the front of it or from the underside the seal will be maintained. It certainly can not hurt having it there anyway.
To aide the BG/RamAir Mod with opening and closing I highly recommend you coat the front of the gasket (see pic # 8) and all surfaces it will come in contact with on the Air Box and Lid (see pic # 7) with Vegetable Cooking Oil. I have done this on my car with no adverse effects what so ever to the paint, plastic or any other materials it comes in contact with. This will ensure the Gasket is able to easily slide up against the Air Box and Lid helping to form an airtight seal. I also recommend that you reapply the oil after every 20 or so opening and closings of the hood for optimum lubrication. Just use a rag or paper towel soaked with the oil and rub it on. It does not have to be dripping or anything, just wipe it on so that the surface becomes shinny from it.
The BG/RamAir mod is now in place (see pic #12) and ready to go. There is one more thing you should do before attempting to close the hood. The Air Box has a surface that sticks out when the Lid is clamped down. This ledge has aÂdumveryÂdumsharp corner that the Foam Gasket has to rub on every time the hood is closed. Some cars have this ledge others do not (see pic # 14). If your car has this ledge you will need to scrape the edge with a razor blade (see pic # 15). This is very easy to do, if you are not comfortable using a razor blade you can simply use 220 grit sand paper and sand the edge down. To smooth out the edge using a razor blade just start at one end of the ledge (this ledge runs in between the two Lid clamps) putting the blade down on the edge and using mild pressureÂdumdragÂdum(do not cut) the blade along the edge. The plastic material will curl up as you pull the blade along. Repeat the process several times until the edge is smooth. If you use a razor blade do so at your own risk.
Check for clearances before you fully close the hood!
Make sure there are no interferences when you first close the hood. Once the main part is screwed onÂdumremove the Front Gasket Assembly. To remove simply put your thumb on the ear that is sticking out (see pic # 6) and gently pull away from main mod. It will snap out into your hands. Gently close the hood to the point where it doesn't quite latch and peek into the area where the BG/RamAir Mod is interfacing with the Air Box (see pic # 11). Make sure there is enough clearance for the Mod. If all goes well allow the hood to close onto the hood latch. You will hear it click onto it but the hood will not be fully closed yet. Now check the clearance again. If all is still well carefully close the hood all the way but pay close attention to the mating surfaces making sure there are still no interferences.
Once the hood is fully closed you can take a flashlight or a droplight and inspect the proximity of the BG/RamAir Mod to the Air Box. On the cars I have checked the fit on the BG/RamAir Mod was approximately 1/16" to 1/8" away from the metal flange that the Air Box rests on. If all is well then install the Front Gasket Assembly by snapping it in place with the 1/2" Foam Gasket facing out towards the motor. The first time you close the hood with the Front gasket Assembly in place, close it gently keeping pressure on top of each hood bulge above where the Gasket is located on the outside of the cars hood. It will take some good pressure to close the hood like this. Once it is closed and fully latched look in through the nostril openings and check the seal the Gasket has made. If you have an automotive inspection mirror you will be able to look inside around the corner to verify the seal is seating in there as well. It has been my experience that all of these cars have the Air Box shifted to the right or left as much as 3/4" off center. This mod was built with those tolerances in mind. If you find that the Air Box is so far to one side that the seal is compromised simply loosen the 4 - 10mm bolts that hold it down and slide it over and retighten the bolts. Once the hood has been closed and all fits have been verified I recommend that you shut the hood with some descent force, you don't have to slam it hard but definitely give it a good push when closing. This will actually help the gasket last longer due to the fast closing technique and reduced friction upon the Gasket. Again, do not slam the hood closed.
If you have any questions about this product please call:
1-781-297-2094
WS6 Performance Innovations will respond after 6:30pm EST.
The BGRA kit was very nicely put together. Too bad somebody didn't buy the production rights to it, because it's been out of production for about 10 years now. Even though I didn't have a WS6 car, I bought a used one just because they were hard to come by and I might be able to use it someday. I ended up installing it on a friend's WS6 and it all went together perfectly. Been on his car 7-8 years.
Is there any real advantage of this style over the bottom feeder styles that are readily available (ssra, chrs1313)?
I don't think those styles will work properly with the WS6 raised airbox. You would, in theory, swap airboxes and go with one of those mods... but then why have a ram air car?
Is there any real advantage of this style over the bottom feeder styles that are readily available (ssra, chrs1313)?
There is no better breather for our cars than from below...I have done multiple tests before and the ram air hoods work but a lot of the air is deflected over the hood and not into it...this is why Prostock had inductions 8-10" off of the hood to grab fresh undisturbed air...actually now they are bottom feeding for this years new EFI setups
You will pick up .5-1mph more with a proper designed bottom feeder
@Tang2 that's so awesome man thank's alot for posting instructions!
No problem, happy to help!
OP, good luck on your hunt! These things are out there, but are getting extremely hard to find. Brian stopped making the main parts in mid-2005, and while he continued making the rain plate and gasket a few years longer, they are gone as well. I actually need a new gasket for mine, but I'm going to have to try to make one myself.
02-11-2016, 07:30 AM
Brian Greene Ram Air - Any place to get anymore? 
