Belts shredded -- is that common?
Belts shredded -- is that common? I have F-body LS1 style accessory drive on my engine that turns 7K rpm and the belts just shredded at the drag strip. And besides that I am on my 3rd alternator in less than 2K miles.
Is there something inherently unsuitable about the F-body FEAD layout that does not lend itself to high engine speed? That style best fits my chassis but I might be able to fit a Corvette LS1 or LS3 FEAD if needed.
Is there something inherently unsuitable about the F-body FEAD layout that does not lend itself to high engine speed? That style best fits my chassis but I might be able to fit a Corvette LS1 or LS3 FEAD if needed.
Inspecting for cause of shredded belt and noticed my power steering pulley has a big chip in the rim. But also noticed that is one funky pulley in it's construction. It has seams and is made from 4 quadrants.
Is there a better replacement power steering pulley out there? This one seems like a cheap piece of junk.
Is there a better replacement power steering pulley out there? This one seems like a cheap piece of junk.
Thanks guys, I was having real trouble finding one for F-body. Glad you shared that info.
I see my p/s shaft is 0.75" diameter. Is that standard F body size or is there a mix of 0.75" and 0.66" shaft diameters?
I see my p/s shaft is 0.75" diameter. Is that standard F body size or is there a mix of 0.75" and 0.66" shaft diameters?
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Circling back, just wanted to share what I had to do to my F-body accessory drive for 7500 rpm. I didn't throw everything at it at once. This was discovery by solving one problem at a time over a couple years. Ended up being a lot of money to make my crap work right.
* Ditched the LS1 belt tensioner. Rim is short and belt can throw on engine decel. LS2 tensioner pulley has taller rim and that can be used. Although, I skipped over that too and installed the Katech manual tensioner. The belt tension will relax in the first few minutes of running due to belt seating in the pulley grooves, so need to run the engine for a few minutes and then set the belt tension again. That'll get your manual belt tensioner dialed in perfect. Keep your eye on it though because it doesn't self adjust.
* Ditched the stock plastic power steering pulley and installed a Turn One pulley.
* 10% under drive crank pulley. Needed to keep the power steering pump speed within allowable max limits of 7000 continuous and 7500 rpm intermittent.
* Turn One power steering pump. Stock pump overheats the fluid and burps fluid, even on the street. Stock pump flows a grossly excessive amount of fluid as it speeds up, and the majority of fluid is bypassed and return to tank unused. The constant pressurizing, bypassing, re-pressurizing causes temperature rise and the fluid overheats. Fluid burps out the cap when reservoir pressure exceeds 20 psi. Turn One pump reduces the volume to fix this problem.
* ATI damper with 66 rubbers. I think the catalog F-body damper is 40 durometer rubbers. Need to special order with higher durometer rubbers appropriate for your power level (vibration increases with more power).
* Ditched the LS1 belt tensioner. Rim is short and belt can throw on engine decel. LS2 tensioner pulley has taller rim and that can be used. Although, I skipped over that too and installed the Katech manual tensioner. The belt tension will relax in the first few minutes of running due to belt seating in the pulley grooves, so need to run the engine for a few minutes and then set the belt tension again. That'll get your manual belt tensioner dialed in perfect. Keep your eye on it though because it doesn't self adjust.
* Ditched the stock plastic power steering pulley and installed a Turn One pulley.
* 10% under drive crank pulley. Needed to keep the power steering pump speed within allowable max limits of 7000 continuous and 7500 rpm intermittent.
* Turn One power steering pump. Stock pump overheats the fluid and burps fluid, even on the street. Stock pump flows a grossly excessive amount of fluid as it speeds up, and the majority of fluid is bypassed and return to tank unused. The constant pressurizing, bypassing, re-pressurizing causes temperature rise and the fluid overheats. Fluid burps out the cap when reservoir pressure exceeds 20 psi. Turn One pump reduces the volume to fix this problem.
* ATI damper with 66 rubbers. I think the catalog F-body damper is 40 durometer rubbers. Need to special order with higher durometer rubbers appropriate for your power level (vibration increases with more power).
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Ive turned 7300 with a manual tensioner only. Seems odd to do all of that for 7500 unless you had a misalignment. I think you did say you were on your 3rd alternator. Any chance it was off from the rest?
I went through 3 alternators because I was a dumbass. There was probably nothing wrong with any of those alternators. Turned out to be an intermittent connection in my accessory wire to the excitation terminal. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...eps-dying.html
The rim of my stock plastic pulley broke. It had to be replaced.
The power steering reservoir burped fluid regularly. It's a common issue with F-body cars.
The rim of my stock plastic pulley broke. It had to be replaced.
The power steering reservoir burped fluid regularly. It's a common issue with F-body cars.
Circling back, just wanted to share what I had to do to my F-body accessory drive for 7500 rpm. I didn't throw everything at it at once. This was discovery by solving one problem at a time over a couple years. Ended up being a lot of money to make my crap work right.
* Ditched the LS1 belt tensioner. Rim is short and belt can throw on engine decel. LS2 tensioner pulley has taller rim and that can be used. Although, I skipped over that too and installed the Katech manual tensioner. The belt tension will relax in the first few minutes of running due to belt seating in the pulley grooves, so need to run the engine for a few minutes and then set the belt tension again. That'll get your manual belt tensioner dialed in perfect. Keep your eye on it though because it doesn't self adjust.
* Ditched the stock plastic power steering pulley and installed a Turn One pulley.
* 10% under drive crank pulley. Needed to keep the power steering pump speed within allowable max limits of 7000 continuous and 7500 rpm intermittent.
* Turn One power steering pump. Stock pump overheats the fluid and burps fluid, even on the street. Stock pump flows a grossly excessive amount of fluid as it speeds up, and the majority of fluid is bypassed and return to tank unused. The constant pressurizing, bypassing, re-pressurizing causes temperature rise and the fluid overheats. Fluid burps out the cap when reservoir pressure exceeds 20 psi. Turn One pump reduces the volume to fix this problem.
* ATI damper with 66 rubbers. I think the catalog F-body damper is 40 durometer rubbers. Need to special order with higher durometer rubbers appropriate for your power level (vibration increases with more power).
* Ditched the LS1 belt tensioner. Rim is short and belt can throw on engine decel. LS2 tensioner pulley has taller rim and that can be used. Although, I skipped over that too and installed the Katech manual tensioner. The belt tension will relax in the first few minutes of running due to belt seating in the pulley grooves, so need to run the engine for a few minutes and then set the belt tension again. That'll get your manual belt tensioner dialed in perfect. Keep your eye on it though because it doesn't self adjust.
* Ditched the stock plastic power steering pulley and installed a Turn One pulley.
* 10% under drive crank pulley. Needed to keep the power steering pump speed within allowable max limits of 7000 continuous and 7500 rpm intermittent.
* Turn One power steering pump. Stock pump overheats the fluid and burps fluid, even on the street. Stock pump flows a grossly excessive amount of fluid as it speeds up, and the majority of fluid is bypassed and return to tank unused. The constant pressurizing, bypassing, re-pressurizing causes temperature rise and the fluid overheats. Fluid burps out the cap when reservoir pressure exceeds 20 psi. Turn One pump reduces the volume to fix this problem.
* ATI damper with 66 rubbers. I think the catalog F-body damper is 40 durometer rubbers. Need to special order with higher durometer rubbers appropriate for your power level (vibration increases with more power).
