Eiyse98ls1

For those who did this swap did y'all use the 98 cam sensor or use the lq9 sensor. On my recent swap I used the 98 ls1 which is a different part # to the lq9/ 99-up fbodys. Went to check dtcs the other day and got a p0343 code cam sensor high voltage output. Before I check the cam gear bolts want to just verify that the 98 ls1 isn't the cause of the dtc. I still have the lq9 sensor that I can use but not sure it will work. Also seems that the code is only pending on start up. This wasn't an issue as far as I know previously with the ls1, wiring is good, grounds good. Thanks

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

I can't directly answer your question, but I'm not even sure I'm running a 98 cam sensor in my 98. Rock auto lists 1 manufacturer for the 98 cam sensor, but that result is also listed in 99-02 cam sensor listings. Autopart store only lists 1 sensor 98-02

Nearly positive I bought my a.c. Delco cam sensor from Amazon or rock auto, but I can't find that listing anywhere. So I may have a different sensor that I had tuned on the car

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

Im not 100% sure, but I think the only sensors that are unique for 98 are the coolant temp and oil sending unit. The cam and crank are the same 98-02

Eiyse98ls1

So I installed the lq9 sensor over the weekend and code hasn't cam back. As mentioned above I did check rock auto and their is only one for the 98 but for 99-02 their are several manufacturers none of which are the same as the 98 that I saw. The part number on the 98 I searched all said discontinued which don't have a update # that I can see. The part # on the lq9 was the same as the 99-02 and all the gen3 ls. The only real way to find out I think to check with dealership for updated part # for 98's.
Gots some pics of the 2 sensors as you can see their identical

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

The base on the lq9 looks slightly fatter. Like I said though I'm 95% positive I used a 2002 cam sensor, knock sensors, and knock sensor harness on my 98. I did them all at once and didn't have any residual problems after.

The original 98 design may have just been superceded by a new vendor and new part number in 99, but no difference in operation. It's also been discussed that the knock sensor design also changed after 98 to be less sensitive, so I'm assuming the cam sensor was redesigned in that similar fashion. Prevent random misfires from showing up in early cars that may have suffered from cold piston slap

Eiyse98ls1

Your right looking at the pictures the lq9 bad does look slightly bigger. lol I don't even know why I didn't look at that. I might have though because I measured from the oring down with my calipers on both and were the same. May have just got side tracked about the base being a little bigger. Drove around again today and no issues. Knock sensors I used my originals because the connectors on the lq9 sensors were different. I guess I got luckiy with the piston slap issue because I didn't have that issue with mines. Matter of fact my 98 block still may be good because I found cam bolts loose while swapping over the lq9.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

I've never heard piston slap in person, but alot of old posts on low mileage cars indicate it sounded like lifter tick except a little deeper tone to the tick.

I know the knock sensors were in fact changed after 98/99 to less sensitive ones. ( none of that makes any difference to the car or ecu, just random knowledge drop)

Good to hear it's running well. My original motor has been rock solid and all original inside except the camshaft for 140k miles now. Not bad considering the quirks the 98 cars and motors have been known to have

Eiyse98ls1

Update...

So issues with cam sensor continued a few weeks after posting this causing no start issues. Checked wiring all good. Buddy of mine came over and took timing cover of and found all 3 bolts to cam backed out. Don't remember if I used loctite or not. I know it my fault i should of made sure I did. Anyways was going to clean out threads and add loctite but noticed their is no locating pin/ dowel for the sprocket. Did all ls gen3 have the pin/ dowel and I lost mines in the motor?

G Atsma

You need the pin. It likely vibrated out when the bolts backed out.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

The cam should have a dowel pin. You can order a new one, but you will need to find the old one. Dropping the pan is a PITA, but if you lower the k-member a bit after removing the motor mount bolts and supporting the engine it will come out.

Eiyse98ls1

Thanks for the quick replies... gonna tell buddy pan has to come off to find dowel!

Eiyse98ls1

Found the pin. It's was on the oil drain plug
Magnet

G Atsma

Gotta love those magnets! Prevents lots of untold motor mayhem!

Eiyse98ls1

Yea. Lucky I found it! It's not beat up but going to swap out cam anyways. Trying to post up pic of the pin but moble app won't let me.
Thinking of going with a stock48 cam but he hasn't replied

Eiyse98ls1

Should I just pull cam and replace with turbo cam or just run without pin? Currently on a budget. If I were to get a new cam might as well get oil pump, chain.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Do not run it without the pin.

Eiyse98ls1

Ok thanks. Gonna get a cam, oil pump , etc orderd.

Eiyse98ls1

Update...

New cam from Jarrett ( stock48 ) installed, as well as new cam retainer plate, ls2 cam sprocket, ls2 chain, TFS dampener bracket and dampener. Meiling 10295 oil pump will be installed another day and get more time to finish to rest up. Also made sure to use loctite (red).