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Battery relocation and cutoff switch installed with coil pack relocation
Happy 4th everyone! Posting this up real quick before the firework fun starts!
Many ways to go about this. Below is what I did/used.
Battery relocation
IMC AUDIO 1/0 Gauge 25' Ft Ground Wire $20.94
IMC AUDIO 1/0 Gauge 25' Ft Ground Wire $20.94
IMC AUDIO 2 Gauge 20' Ft RED $28.94
4 Gauge AWG BLACK Power Ground Wire 20' $19.95
4 Gauge AWG RED Power 6' $5.95
All the wiring weighs 13 lbs total, but you are removing the stock wiring which weighs 2 lbs.
(10) 4 AWG auge Gold Wire Crimp Cable Ring Terminal Red / Black Boots 3/8" Lug (buy 2 sets for total of 20) - $11.90
8 Ring Terminal Connector 1/0 GA Gauge 3/8" 10mm hole Crimp Red Black Boots - $7.99
8 Ring Terminal Connector 2/0 GA AWG 00 Gauge 3/8" 10mm hole Crimp Red Black - $9.99
20 Ft. 3/4" BLACK SPLIT WIRE LOOM CABLE CONDUIT POLYETHYLENE TUBING (buy 4 of these for total of 80ft) $40
25 Ft 1/2" Split Wire Loom Conduit Polyethylene Tubing Black Color Sleeve Tube $9.99
2 Pack GM Side Post Battery Adapter Terminals $9.98
4-Way Power Distribution Block Gold Plated 1 x 0 AWG Ga Input to 4 x 4 Gauge Out $9.99
InstallGear 0/2/4 Gauge Ga ANL Fuse Holder + 250 Amp ANL Fuses (2 Pack) $18.95
Jegs disconnect switch 10305 $19.01 (edit - no longer using)
Jegs switch handle 10341 $13.59 (edit - no longer using)
Jegs switch on/off faceplate 10346 $11.78 (edit - no longer using)
Longacre racing 45782 cut off switch $69.99 (now using)
Taylor Battery box 48200 $81.78
Sponge Neoprene With Adhesive 1/8" Thick X 54" Wide X 1' $21.99
Thermo shield tape $20 @ autozone
Uxcell 7.9"x4.7"x2.95" (200mmx120mmx75mm) ABS Junction Box Universal Electric Project Enclosure $12.59 (optional)
34/78 Duracell AGM Battery $129.00 (optional)
ACDELCO 3351092 {#88877302} truck alternator $158.69 (optional)
12 Point Terminal Junction Block Stainless Power Post Distribution Buss bar Red $16.50 (optional)
Here is the original wiring diagram with a 1 pole switch prior to using a remote starter solenoid and 2 pole switch that can handle high amps. Please see posts that follow for correct wiring diagram, as this one leaves you with a hot wire connected to the alt even if the switch is off.
New wiring diagram with proper 2 pole kill switch and remote start solenoid. Use the victory lap L492 which has built in suppression diodes and not the 30203 as pictured below:
Factory wiring removed:
The ground locations on either side of the block require removal of the starter or alternator to access them. Here is a close up of the back of the starter:
Here are the grounds attached to the passenger side of the block at G100. Be sure to use thermo sheild tape over the wire loom.
Here are the grounds on the driver side of the block. You'll want to purchase a new ground bolt, which is a 3/4" long M10x1.5, as you are hooking up multiple grounds in this location and the factory 1/2" bolt isn't quite long enough. Again, be sure to use thermoshield tape on all wiring that is close to the block or anything that will get hot when the car is running.
I went with the 145a truck alt and a relabeled Deka 34/78 AGM from sams club. Fires right up every time!
Coil pack relocation
For the coil over relocation using the under the car frame rails, you will need the following courtesy of Brian (LeftySS) who introduced me to this mod:
Burkhart or MWC front bumper brace $250
Michigan Motorsports Coil Pack Relocation Kit for LS1 LS6 LSX Stainless Steel Brackets and Harness $112.00
Jaz Products 602-025-01 Black Radiator Recovery Tank $31.22
MSD 25 ft spark wire 34019 $52.17
MSD 45 deg boots 3304 $9.59
MSD 90 deg boots 8850 $21.33
MSD STRIPPER-CRIMPER MINI 3503 $8.69
Spark plug heat guards 40300 $42.99
The reason for the front bumper brace is so that you can mount the Jaz coolant overflow tank to it as the oem overflow tank needs to be removed to perform this mod since it is in the way of where the coil packs will mount on the passenger side frame rail.
More info on this mod here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...tion-kits.html
Custom under hood corner area covers
If you want to make customer covers to hide the area where the battery was and the fuse boxes, you can take the fuse boxes out of their holders so that they lower. blown69 provides instructions on how to make the block off plates here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...g-harness.html
I got the Dzus bracket setup from Jegs, the fasteners were expensive and I'm sure they can be sourced elsewhere
22 awg metal sheet from Home depot (2) $24.00
Dzus 1" SPRING .325" #5 (10) 555-82250 $24.59
Dzus bracket (10) $23.99
Dzus fasteners 82230 (10) $19.99
Here's how mine came out:
Last edited by 5.7stroker; 07-12-2018 at 03:12 PM.
It was suggested that I put a truck starter in with the 2 long bolts to avoid a possible cracked block. Apparently the stock starter with the one long bolt and one short bolt is a defective design. I have Summit Racing SUM-829200 on order.
Also if I had to do it again, I probably would not go with the Taylor metal battery box and instead use a plastic box. With the metal box, the whole box becomes grounded because it's bolted to the car. So if you hit the wrench on the side of the box when installing the + battery cable, it's sparkler time. If the box touches the + side post terminal while installed it's sparkler time. I put electric tape on the sides of the box to prevent a fire if it accidentally touches.
Care must be taken when installing a battery into this box. I recommend wrapping your 8mm wrench with electrical tape when tightening the side post bolts. Here's some pics to see how close the terminals are to the side of the box. Also on the top part of the box, if you use post connectors that I have pictured below, the clearance from the box lid and the top of the post is about 5 millimeters. In the pic below, I laid a flat ruler on the box to show how close the lid would be with it closed. If the top of the box caves in and touches the post for any reason, you could have a fire on your hands. I refuse to put the lid of the box on with those top posts installed. Also the holes to feed the wire are small. You can barely fit two 0/1 gauge wires through one hole. Looking into plastic battery boxes now and will express my concerns to the manufacturer of this box. A Jaz box Part Number: 547-700-500-01 may be the better solution. Says it fits group 24 batteries and a 34/78 deka AGM is only 0.125" shorter on the width so it should fit fine.
Also when messing with the wiring, keep in mind that even if the kill switch is set to off, there is still current running through the line, through the car, to the alternator. I'm considering adding a fused switch rather than just a fuse in the line running to the alt so that I can kill power to the alt as well whenever I decide without having to take the fuse out.
Last edited by 5.7stroker; 07-05-2018 at 07:56 PM.
If I am reading your schematic right your alternator is still hot when the switch is off. Do you want it like that? I thought the purpose of the switch was to kill all power to the vehicle. Am I wrong?
If I am reading your schematic right your alternator is still hot when the switch is off. Do you want it like that? I thought the purpose of the switch was to kill all power to the vehicle. Am I wrong?
I'd rather it not be like that but every schematic I've seen shows that the kill switch is wired that way and from what i was told, that's the approved way to have it and pass tech. The logic is that the items that supply power are on one side of the switch and everything else is on the other. So basically what you are left with is a hot wire running through the full length of your car even if the switch is off. Sounds *** backwards to me, that's why I was wanting a re-settable circuit breaker so that I didn't have to pop the fuse every time. When the car is sitting, I'd like all power being supply from the battery to be cut off. Any suggestions?
Also do they make some kind of rubber tape that maybe I could use to insulate the inside of the battery box? If I did that, it would eliminate the need for the plastic box and actually be safe to run.
Why not just put the switch on the ground side? That would kill everything and should not blow any fuses. For you battery box question yes there is a rubber tape available. There's also thin plastic sheets you can get and line it with which would probably be the easiest way.
Appears as if the proper way to wire this so that the alt doesn't get power when the kill switch is "off" is to use a 4 terminal double pole) kill switch and not a 2 terminal (single pole), but not just any 4 terminal, but one that can handle high enough amps on both sides. Some of these switches like a Moroso 74102 can only handle 20 amps max on the 2nd pole. What is needed is a Longacre racing 45782 cut off switch that can handle the higher output of the alt for those of us not running a low amp alt. The 45782 has a 175a and 125a circuit.
You do not want to kill the alternator when the switch is thrown off. Everything can go through the cutoff except the alternator. On the alternator dedicated + line add a fuse at 150a. In the event of a wreck or short the fuse will blow first before the wire melts.
I have a 150a fuse on it, I just don't want a hot wire running through the car from the alt when the switch is off. Also don't want the wire to starter hot when it's not starting.
07-04-2018, 07:03 PM
Battery relocation and cutoff switch installed with coil pack relocation 
