Not really, flowmaster and k&n still sell a ton of fbody stuff even though their 4th gen fbody stuff doesn't live up the hyped gains. People still buy MSD coils, still try to tune with handhelds, still spend as much on shorties as longtubes, still put on throttle body spacers, etc.

If it turns out to be true they will sell a LOT of wires, if it turns out to be a fluke they will sell just as many as they do now and maybe still more because of showcased quality.

 

Some very good points there.

 

Even if they don't meet their "Claimed" hp numbers they still sell them because they often do give a HP increase. I think the questions here is will the low resistance Granetelli wires show any increase in HP whatsoever.

 

Im just going to put Granatelli Plug wires stickers all over my car. That will get me 15rwh

 

Well I took the plunge and ordered a set of wires today. So I decided to put in new plugs. I know there's some how to write ups on how to go about this, like Install University. But I found that this was what I needed to do to get the job done. I used a long pair of needle nose pliers to remove the plug wires. The plugs were in so tight that a short swivel ratchet wasn't enough leverage, in fact I busted a plug during loosening it
So I got a 3/8" ratcheting breaker bar from Harbor freight. It worked great, I didn't need to reach in as far with my hands. When the plugs were loose I used a ratcheting wheel with either a 1" or 3" extension to remove the plugs



The driver's side wasn't so bad if I unbolted the A.I.R. tube (2 10mm bolts) and swung it away.
But the passenger side was a b--ch. First I unbolted the throttle cable gismo housing ( 2 10mm bolts ) from the fender and swung it to the center. Then I unbolted the A.I.R tube and removed it from the hose. Next was the hard part, removing the coil pack. 4 of the 5 10mm studs were easy to remove, but the one at the back of the valve cover was hard. I had to reach around the top and use a 10mm box wrench and take small turns to get it out. I couldn't use a ratchet or box wrench ratchet. I won't be putting that stud back on.





As good as the long ratcheting breaker bar was on the first seven plugs I couldn't get it to work on plug # 8. So I went from under the car. I used the 5/8 socket and a box ratcheting wrench on it to remove this plug. The ratchet wheel and the 1" extension is what I used to start all the new plugs



To stay on topic I measured all the factory wires, and they measured form a low of 351 Ω to a high of 357 Ω. Did someone say that factory wires were 800 Ω ?

 

mine are about the same, 370 ohms.

 

Even taking the coil bracket off, it was still hard to get #8 from the top? Was it ALOT easier to get it from the bottom??

Also next time, maybe use a little bit of anti-seize on the new plugs so they are not so tight???

 

Pff... I can get MY #8 plug from the TOP! ......... Amateurs.. lol

 

Taking the coil bracket off also made it easier to get to the other plugs ( less blood). I could get to the # 8 plug from the top but I couldn't get the socket to seat around the plug if I left the ratchet attached. If I seated the socket first then I couldn't line up the ratchet lug with the socket square.
It was much easier to go from underneath with a socket and and a box ratchet
I always use anti seize but I think it's just to prevent galling between the steel plug threads and the aheads. They don't do anything to help break the plugs loose. I just think in my case the factory used an impact wrench to install the plugs.

 

Just ordered a set. Going to the dyno on the 25th. I will report back with results one way or the other.

 

Ready when you guys are, Granatelli.... Let's get this test going!

 

You got that 3400 RPM misfire resolved, right?

 

I ordered my wires on Friday afternoon. I got them on Monday. 3 days for delivery, not bad ! I tested all the wires for resistance 5 of them tested 00.0 ohms the other 3 measured 00.1 ohms. I'm impressed with quality and appearance of the product.
I'm gonna install them tonight and then do a SOTP run. Then when my LS6 valley cover comes in I'll install it along with an SLP LS6 manifold. Then it's off to the tuners

 

Agreed... Its actually easier that way. Two tools required, spark plug socket with hex head end and 3/4 open end wrench.

 

I would agree, but for me there wasn't enough of the hex head of the socket showing for me to get a box wrench around. I must have a shorter spark plug socket than you do. I also had to use two open end box wrenches connected together to break # 8 plug loose from below. As I wrote earlier, I had to use an 18" breaker bar from the top to loosen the other 7 plugs
I posted what I had to do to get the job done, nothing more. What works for some may not work for others

 

damn granatelli sold alot of wires with this thread bring brought back from the dead...well played Sir...

still interested in unbiased results...

 

Ok, so lookin on the site I see 2 sets listed, the blue ones & a red set with (hi-temp) beside it which appears to have a different boot for the spark plug connection.

So would the red wires be better for people running LT's or just the blue with stock metal heat shields swapped over on them?

 

my dyno results will be delayed. I had to reschedule my dyno tune at speed inc from April 29th to May 27th. Sorry guys, still waiting on my rear end.

 

X2... always do mine from the top. Just go straight in from the front of the car and use your left hand. Only takes a minute.

 

Ok, since some of us have been together on this thread for so many pages it's starting to feel like family, I wanted to let you know about a new thread I started about......
Nobody's claiming extra h.p. so no bashing please




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