WS6/WU6

Any that are ,could you tell me how and where you mounted them.Thankyou for your time.

<small>[ August 08, 2002, 03:40 PM: Message edited by: Pro Stock John ]</small>

Crazyquik

I'm using the very ghetto ratchet tie down torque strap. Get a thin (1") ratchet tie down from a hardware store, put one hook in a passenger side hole in the K memeber, and one hook around the bottom (I think) alternator bolt. Then ratchet it down. After a couple days you might have to make an adjustment as it stretches.

Not as good as a metal turnbuckle, but this doesn't transmit any false knock to the engine block.

J.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I've run the exact same setup as Crazy.

MacGyver

iTrader: (5)

Forgive my ignorance. But what exactly does a torque strap do to help you out? I know what they are but not how they improve anything. Never had any experience with them at all.

L8r
Will

Crazyquik

It keeps your Y-pipe from banging for one reason. I had some crappy digital cam pics of it, I'll look for them. I doubt it would make a noticeable difference in ET, but the main reason is to keep the exhaust from banging which can cause false KR, which will slow you.

J.

WS6/WU6

Thanks all.I used them on my old iron blocks, but was worryed about damage to alumn block or heads .Thanks again.

Crazyquik

To my knowlege, no one has harmed thier alternator bracket with this mod (its a pretty sturdy looking cast alum piece). It seems real popular with the Chi-town area guys (PSJ, Paulie, a few others).

I couldn't find any pictures though.

J.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Cool idea! Might have to try that!

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I parts-stripped out an old Buick Wildcat once.
It had a factory torque strap (1968, 430 mill).
It was cute and simple - a 3/8" steel rod formed
to a loop, that picked up a pair of head acc.
mounting holes, a steel cable (1/4", with loop
ends & compression keepers), and another loop
mounted to the upper A-arm bolt.

You could cobble up something like this right
easy, and most any Ace Hardware will cut & crimp
a steel cable w/ loop ends for you. The cable
ought not to make enough noise to wake up the
knock sensor. You could put a sheath of fuel
line hose around the mounting ear, if it needs
more quieting down.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Solid mounts stress the bottom of the block,
with a strap you gain a longer lever arm on
a more robust part of the engine. Plus, you
lose the vibration isolation of the soft
mounts. The strap on the other hand only
acts when you really need it.

y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

I'm going solid mounts from Madman too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

three fold purpose
1. I get alot of movement under boost. Enough so that the driver side turbo has made a nice imprint of itself in the floor pan <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

2. More room for turbo inlet plumbing

3. Weight!! The solid mounts weigh in at a whopping 4 lbs total. Add that to the PA k-member and the front went on a BIG diet <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

flyin red TA

I had the ratcheting torque strap setup for about 5k miles. Works good. I'm going to put it back on soon.

quickWS6

Anybody have any pics? Any noise from this? Does this help noticeably?

Crazyquik

I might go take some digi cam pics this weekend. If you dont have it tightened enough it will vibrate against the K-member and make a rattling sound, I think I put a piece of weatherstripping on the back of the ratchet to quieten it.

J.

Psycho Dave

If the engine is twisting that bad then why not just go with solid motor mounts? A guy in the local club I am in got a set for his car from madman fabrications. Might want to look into that if its a big deal.

ChrisB

I have been in cars with solid motor mounts ("street" cars) - it is not fun! A phenomenal amount of vibration is absorbed by the stock mounts - and you will find out just how much with the solid mount.

With solid mounts you also need to loctite EVERYTHING. You will find screws that have backed out in places you didn't know existed on your car <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Chris

Crazyquik

http://community.webshots.com/user/crazyquik

Ask and ye shall recieve <img border="0" alt="[angel]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_angel.gif" />
2 <bad> pics of the torque strap. Neither shows the attachment to the alt bracket though...

J.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Crazyquik:
<strong>http://community.webshots.com/user/crazyquik

Ask and ye shall recieve <img border="0" alt="[angel]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_angel.gif" />
2 <bad> pics of the torque strap. Neither shows the attachment to the alt bracket though...

J.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ahh, now I see what I did wrong <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I made a half azz attempt at this yesterday at the track.. finally decided to wait till another day to try it.

Crazyquik

You'll know you get it on right when the whole car torques over when you rev it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> You just have to get a good anchor point.

J.

WS6/WU6

BIG THANKS TO CRAZYQUICK.I got ratch tie down at home depot under 10 bucks works great.Anyone want one part number 05514 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />