Dope

iTrader: (2)

I found that with even the shortest bullet muffler, I could not fit it inbetween the collector on the y-pipe and the cutout itself. The cutout is placed in that lil indentation in the floorpan before the axle. I took it to a good exhaust shop and they set this up for me:

<img src="http://fear.net/~dope/camaro/exhaust/relocated_bullet+cutout/new_cutout+bullet_location.jpg" alt=" - " />

Note that the cutout is now located AFTER the indentation. It just barely fits, you can see how the over-axle pipe starts immediately after the cutout. I had to bang the floorboard a tiny bit just to ensure that it would hit the motor of my McCord power cutout. This should not be necessary for those who have just plain cutouts.

The extra room created by relocating the cutout allowed PLENTY of space for the bullet. In fact, you could easily fit a 24" bullet in there (you can see the extension between bullet and cutout that was added):

<img src="http://fear.net/~dope/camaro/exhaust/relocated_bullet+cutout/new_cutout+bullet_location-from_driveside_viewpoint.jpg" alt=" - " />

For those that are curious, the over-axle pipe is a dynomax piece from Summit. Nice 3" mandrel bent, stops right at the inlet to the muffler (another dynomax piece).

The rasp is completely gone from my setup. It sounds pretty much exactly like it did before, except 10% quieter (no real tone change) and of course, like I said, the rasp is eliminated. No more nasty truck sound. Also, with the relocation of the cutout further back (and no longer pointing at the floorboard), the interior resonance is all but gone. No longer does my console and dash rattle/buzz constantly. You can actually hold conversation easily inside the car, despite an open cutout and LT's. Even with the windows up it is 90% better.

Dope

<small>[ September 21, 2002, 06:07 PM: Message edited by: Dope ]</small>

ratio411

Why not just do the Dynomouth mod then and save yourself the time and expense of the cutout?!?
Dave

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

With My POS Grot Y-Pipe I have the 18" long bullet in the I-pipe with the cut-out where yours is placed. When I redo my Y, I may have to use the 12" in the I-Pipe or i hope to add the bullets in the Y like I used to have.

Dope

iTrader: (2)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ratio411:
<strong>Why not just do the Dynomouth mod then and save yourself the time and expense of the cutout?!?
Dave</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">1) More power (less piping, no bends)
2) Louder (before axle, quite a bit more noise, especially in the car)
3) Adjustable loudness (with the power cutout)
4) Muffler for cops/inspection (quiet dynomax 17227, with cutout closed of course)

It's really the ultimate setup for a street car. Cutout stays open 95% of the time, max power and sound quality, while still being legal (can close it if I get pulled over, as well as for inspection).

Dope

LARRY01Z28

iTrader: (28)

I like that alot. thats what ive been thinking of doing.

Gearhead

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Dope:
<strong>

For those that are curious, the over-axle pipe is a dynomax piece from Summit. Nice 3" mandrel bent, stops right at the inlet to the muffler (another dynomax piece).

Dope</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Dope,

Would you happen to have the the part# for the intermediate pipe?

Dope

iTrader: (2)

WLK-54064 is the Summit part #. It's a 3" intermediate pipe, including the first bend over the axle (~90, you can see where it terminates in the pics). It'll slide right into the stock y-pipe too, as it necks down to 2.75 right at the beginning. If you have headers with a 3" y-pipe, you will have to have that inch or so cut off and replaced with 3" pipe.

I think it was about 40 bucks.

Dope

JS

iTrader: (4)

That looks very nice...
But why have a cutout behind a muffler?
I'm gonna do the same thing u did but i'm gonna mount the cutout in FRONT of the bullet....

I guess u didnt want noise,I see u have the 17227,Thats a great muffler...

JS

<small>[ September 24, 2002, 09:05 AM: Message edited by: JS ]</small>

Dope

iTrader: (2)

I used the bullet in front of the cutout to kill the loudness a lil and to cure the rasp. I'm losing 1hp at most so I'm not really worried. The cops were starting to follow me around so I knew I had to tone it down a bit <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I don't think you'll be able to fit the cutout before the bullet muffler, without seriously hurting ground clearance.

Something to think about.

Dope

ratio411

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Dope:
<strong>1) More power (less piping, no bends)
2) Louder (before axle, quite a bit more noise, especially in the car)
3) Adjustable loudness (with the power cutout)
4) Muffler for cops/inspection (quiet dynomax 17227, with cutout closed of course)
It's really the ultimate setup for a street car. Cutout stays open 95% of the time, max power and sound quality, while still being legal (can close it if I get pulled over, as well as for inspection).
Dope</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">1) Agreed, I'm sure it's worth 1 or 2 horse without going over the axle.
2) Agreed, I guess we have different priorities though, I want it louder outside the car.
3) The Dynomouth sounds awesome, I don't wish to regulate mine. Different priorities again I guess.
4) The DynoMax bullet is a muffler and is not too loud by itself. Unless you have ***** for cops in your town. I have been in several towns and states with mine, the bullet is quiet unless you go by Johnny Law at WOT. Then you'll probably get a ticket, but not for the muffler. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I don't really disagree with anything you said and I am not flaming. I just couldn't see the logic in so much complexity and added weight when there are other ways to "skin the cat" so to say.
Good luck
Dave

JS

iTrader: (4)

The bullet will act as my interm. pipe.I believe I have the room to fit alittle piece of pipe to the merge and then to a cutout,to the bullet and up over the rear.If I dont then I'm going to run A 4IN bullet with a turndown off the merge.

I lost 8RWHP threw my DYNOMOUTH
Alittle more than 1 or 2 hp <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

JS

Dope

iTrader: (2)

Dave,

It was definitely fine with the stock manifolds and cats, but with LTs and open cutout it was really loud. Like, deafening loud. You couldn't hold a conversation in the car. Anything over 2000rpm would have people on sidewalks staring. My entire interior buzzed and rattled constantly.

I agree with the dynomouth being fine, it really isn't too loud outside the car. Especially with the pipes exiting out the back, it sounds quieter inside the car than it really is. Try taking a ride in a car with LTs and a cutout before the axle, you'll know what I mean.

As far as closing the cutout and making it quiet (with the quiet dynomax 17227), I really liked the idea of being able to blast around without announcing my presence for a mile around. Ever want to scream down some side streets at night? Any cop in the area would be able to hear me. I've had friends tell me they could hear me a minute away when I was coming to pick them up. Plus, like I said, it would never pass MA inspection. They'd laugh at me if I tried to bring that loud of a car in.

I'm agreeing with you, I'm just clarifying my reasoning <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> I don't imagine the extra 1lb of the cutout is worth anything anyway <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Dope

Gearhead

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Dope:
<strong>WLK-54064 is the Summit part #. It's a 3" intermediate pipe, including the first bend over the axle (~90, you can see where it terminates in the pics). It'll slide right into the stock y-pipe too, as it necks down to 2.75 right at the beginning. If you have headers with a 3" y-pipe, you will have to have that inch or so cut off and replaced with 3" pipe.

I think it was about 40 bucks.

Dope</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Dope,

Thanks!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Murdock

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the pictures. I just did the same thing, but left the stock WS6 catback in place.

With offroads and closed cutout, it's quiet inside the cabin.