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True Duals, questions answered here. Post YOUR information and pics too!
01-28-2010, 05:40 PM
#702
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little compilation vid of my car. Get a pretty good idea of what it sounds like
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/D...nce_731003.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/D...nce_731003.htm
01-28-2010, 05:54 PM
#703
little compilation vid of my car. Get a pretty good idea of what it sounds like
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/D...nce_731003.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/D...nce_731003.htm
02-02-2010, 07:54 PM
#705
thats not too bad. the H pipe could be designed a lot better and definately time for stainless headers if your going with stainless pipe.
and no offense, but all that money in the M9 and other suspension components and you still have stock stamped steel LCA's?
and no offense, but all that money in the M9 and other suspension components and you still have stock stamped steel LCA's?
02-05-2010, 02:40 PM
#707
I have finally finished the true duals project for my 1995 Z28. The entire system is stainless steel and was made from Magnaflow mandrel bent pipes.
Here are the specs:
Flowmaster 3" to 2.5" reducers
Magnaflow stainless (5) J-bends, (4) L bends and (1) 45 degree bend
Woolf aircraft (2) 2.5" radius L bends
Magnaflow dual in/out (internal X) muffler
Magnaflow X-pipe
Magnaflow stainless dual oval tips
Dynomax stainless cutouts
QTP electric cutouts
Lots of stainless Accu-seal almps
I designed the cutout pipes to be easily removed and replaced with catalytic converters should the want or need ever arise. Takes about 30 minutes to do this. Also the whole thing can be easily removed rather easily just like a catback.
All pipes are stainless MIG welded and ground smooth for a seamless look. I polished the rear pipes exiting the muffler to a very shiny finish as well.
The exhaust sound is deep with absolutely no signs of rasp, popping or machine gun sounds in the 2K RPM range like what I had with the old Borla catback and ORY pipe. The sound volume at idle, as well as WOT, is similar to any other catback. Definitely not overly loud unless you open the cutouts. Maybe this is due to the Magnaflow X-pipe up front and the internal X-pipe in the muffler. The exhaust waves should certainly be balanced with this setup.
Ground clearance is outstanding with the lowest point being ~5" off the ground. This is on the pipes just before they go over the axle. I have yet to bang a pipe.
I also managed to reuse all the factory exhaust hanger points to secure the new system. I only had to custom make one new hanger, just in front of the axle as well as the pair at the tips. There are also stainless O2 bungs welded into each reducer for easy hookup to the wideband O2 at the dyno.
Thanks to everybody who offered help and advice with this project. I could not be happier with the final results.
Here are the pics of the system uninstalled:
Here are some installed pics:
Here is a shot from behind:
Here are some sound clips:
Cutout closed:
Cutouts open:
Here are the specs:
Flowmaster 3" to 2.5" reducers
Magnaflow stainless (5) J-bends, (4) L bends and (1) 45 degree bend
Woolf aircraft (2) 2.5" radius L bends
Magnaflow dual in/out (internal X) muffler
Magnaflow X-pipe
Magnaflow stainless dual oval tips
Dynomax stainless cutouts
QTP electric cutouts
Lots of stainless Accu-seal almps
I designed the cutout pipes to be easily removed and replaced with catalytic converters should the want or need ever arise. Takes about 30 minutes to do this. Also the whole thing can be easily removed rather easily just like a catback.
All pipes are stainless MIG welded and ground smooth for a seamless look. I polished the rear pipes exiting the muffler to a very shiny finish as well.
The exhaust sound is deep with absolutely no signs of rasp, popping or machine gun sounds in the 2K RPM range like what I had with the old Borla catback and ORY pipe. The sound volume at idle, as well as WOT, is similar to any other catback. Definitely not overly loud unless you open the cutouts. Maybe this is due to the Magnaflow X-pipe up front and the internal X-pipe in the muffler. The exhaust waves should certainly be balanced with this setup.
Ground clearance is outstanding with the lowest point being ~5" off the ground. This is on the pipes just before they go over the axle. I have yet to bang a pipe.
I also managed to reuse all the factory exhaust hanger points to secure the new system. I only had to custom make one new hanger, just in front of the axle as well as the pair at the tips. There are also stainless O2 bungs welded into each reducer for easy hookup to the wideband O2 at the dyno.
Thanks to everybody who offered help and advice with this project. I could not be happier with the final results.
Here are the pics of the system uninstalled:
Here are some installed pics:
Here is a shot from behind:
Here are some sound clips:
Cutout closed:
Cutouts open:
02-19-2010, 09:50 AM
#710
TECH Enthusiast
i have a question for all you guys, you know how on the drivers side the header will **** to the left? do you have to fabricate a pipe to come off and into an x pipe or is there two seperate pipes you can buy for both sides that would meet together into the x?
03-03-2010, 07:40 AM
#716
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from what i've seen, it's too big/needs to be moved
i'm mostly seeing if anyone can recommend a driveshaft loop that will fit. the only one i've found so far that MIGHT fit, is one from lakewood, but i'd rather not purchase something only to find it doesnt fit...
i'm mostly seeing if anyone can recommend a driveshaft loop that will fit. the only one i've found so far that MIGHT fit, is one from lakewood, but i'd rather not purchase something only to find it doesnt fit...
03-07-2010, 06:06 PM
#719
If the guys who have built over the axle systems would help me out, I'd really appreciate it.
I'm going to run 3" pipes off of my headers (QTP) into an X where the stock Y would be, then immediately after the X I'm going to reduce the diameter down to 2.5" (using the long cone venturi style transitions), then go up over the axle, turn both pipes into a pair of mufflers, and do a 2 on the left exit.
I already have all of the 3" that I need (lots of bends and straight pipe left over from another cars exhaust project) and I already have the mufflers and some new old stock SLP 2OTL tailpipes...I'm just trying to figure out how many mandrel bends I'm going to need to buy to get up over the axle, and turned 90 degrees into the mufflers. I was thinking about ordering 3 of those J bends that come with a 180 and a 45 degree bend on them. I have straight pipe already, so I'm not worried about how long the legs are between the bends...anybody think 3 of those will be enough for just getting over the axle and turned into the muffler?
I'll post up pictures when I build the system...I am not the best at taking pictures, but I'm pretty motivated by a lot of the pictures I've seen on this thread, so I will try my best.
I'm going to run 3" pipes off of my headers (QTP) into an X where the stock Y would be, then immediately after the X I'm going to reduce the diameter down to 2.5" (using the long cone venturi style transitions), then go up over the axle, turn both pipes into a pair of mufflers, and do a 2 on the left exit.
I already have all of the 3" that I need (lots of bends and straight pipe left over from another cars exhaust project) and I already have the mufflers and some new old stock SLP 2OTL tailpipes...I'm just trying to figure out how many mandrel bends I'm going to need to buy to get up over the axle, and turned 90 degrees into the mufflers. I was thinking about ordering 3 of those J bends that come with a 180 and a 45 degree bend on them. I have straight pipe already, so I'm not worried about how long the legs are between the bends...anybody think 3 of those will be enough for just getting over the axle and turned into the muffler?
I'll post up pictures when I build the system...I am not the best at taking pictures, but I'm pretty motivated by a lot of the pictures I've seen on this thread, so I will try my best.
03-07-2010, 06:16 PM
#720
TECH Enthusiast
