I see everyone in here is pleased with the headers but I was wondering has anyone used the y-pipe because I've encountered fitment issues. If anyone put theirs on I would love to know what technique you used. Please let me know I have a thread called "y-pipe argh" or PM me.

 

Im running a few of those lap joint band clamps with alum foil. Works really well.

As for the ypipe. All I can say is a pry bar for the drivers side and heater hose. It's like that to tuck up super high. I like it, just gotta get heater hose to deal with the banging.

 

I used the Y-pipe for a while, before I got my new exhaust installed.

Let me guess, the drivers side header is angled too high towards the floor, which causes the Y-pipe to make direct contact with the floor, therefore preventing you from slipping it on all the way?? That was the issue I had, and because of that I had to deal with exhaust leaks and vibration/rattles from the exhaust making contact with the floor.

The only real solutions are to have a shop bend the header collector downwards slightly, have an S-bend put in the y-pipe to clear the floor o the drivers side, or a have a new exhaust put on. I went for a whole new true dual exhaust from the headers back, y-pipe are a less than optimal setup from a performance and sound standpoint.

 

Did you have a custom true dual setup or something pre made?

 

Finally installed my XS headers and Y-pipe yesterday. Took about seven hours, which included a trip to the parts store to replace one of my pre-cat O2 sensors (the threads seemed to have fused during removal).

The install went pretty good. Had to drop the K member to get the headers to slide in. I suppose I could have jacked the car up a bit higher, but the bolts where right there and it wasn't a big deal. After that, everything went well.

As expected, the driver side y-pipe sits VERY close (read: touching) the floorboard. Like most people, I did the pry bar/heater hose mod. I'm having high-flow cats welded in, so I'll just have the exhaust shop heat and bend a few things here and there to get the clearence I need.

The sound is great! I have a Staniless Works chambered exhaust system (for those who don't know, it's similiar to a GMMG, but with a chambered pipe for the I-pipe). It has a very deep rumble at idle, but barks good and loud when you get on it.

Another pretty happy WX customer.

Marc

 

Your welcome Marc, glad I could finally install these for you. Don't worry the slices on my hands will recover.

Marc, lowering the k-member is a standard thing I do with all my header installs. it makes things very easy and you don't have to worry about unbolting/bolting motor mounts. And I always jack the car up 21" for all header installs, it is unneccessary to jack it any higher.


For Marc's headers I also had to lower the K-member and have my brother pry down on the collector pipe to get the y-pipe onto the collector. Due to clearance issues with the design. the collector is too close to the floor, So it was very difficult to get on, and touches the bottom of the car.

I told Marc to have an exhaust shop heat the pipes at the bend of the collector and reposition it. That should fix the issues. Other than that the rest went together pretty well. The only other issues I found was that the bolt holes on the flanges were slightly off, making it harder than usual to get the last bolt in. Also the number 4 spark plug wire sits very close to the pipe. We put heat shielding on them so it should be ok.

Marc, you did a very good job of retreiving dropped bolts and wrenches. The funny Quote of the day was "Maaaaarcccc!!!!! Can you get the......"

Yep, it isn't as punchy as mine though, is it. But the best thing i like about doing header installs is seeing people leave with a smile on their faces when I am done.


Marc as soon as you tune out the rear O2s you will be able to feel a giant difference in performance. Glad you are happy. Pass my name on to everyone else.

PS: here are a few pictures Flaminbird took of the work.

Here is me jacking your car up (my brother is putting the jackstand in place)


My brother installing or removing plugs on the passenger side....
[img]http://flaminbird.smugmug.com/photos/170732294-L.jpg[img]

Me, ziptieing O2 sensor wires or something...


And Marc......

 

That's a pretty tight place to work in.

 

Tim and his brother (JT) did a fantasic job! I didn't know you visited here or I'd have mentioned the good work. If anyone in the Northern VA or MD areas needs work done to their F-Body, Tim's a good man to see. He's very reasonably priced too. I'll be posting over on the local board too... as soon as it comes back up anyway.

Yes, the space was tight, but it got the job done.

And Tim's right... I can **** down tools with the best of them. I'm also an expert Stage 8 bolt clamp and "C" clip installer. I can also beat broken nuts/bolts out of sockets very well.

Thanks Tim...

Marc

 

are those any better than these?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

what exactly is a "lap joint" vs a "butt joint"? also, you only needed to buy 1 of these, meaning you used the other u clamps that came with the headers?

 

Has anyone had cats installed on their xs ypipe yet? I really wanna keep my LM2.

 

I'm doin' it next week... what are you wanting to know?

 

WOW

lots of my questions were answered in this thread. Sorry to see some folks getting in trouble for trying to infomrative of some negative issues. I understand that this is not a bashing ground though, so i am also not second guessing anyones judgement.

I am glad however to see some negative remarks as i can plan accordinly to what i need in my set up (i think these headers would be a great choice,,i would like to see MORE dyno numbers though,,i cant get over getting 40 ponies from some other manufactors, for just a few more bucks) I have learned that the Y pipe is not for me,,,as i would like something witha clean merge,,,somthing along the lines of what Pat fabed up with a flow merger,,absolutly no air travel getting smashed into the air coming from the other side of the Y....instead they flow side by side with gradual mergeing for more velocity of flow.

Thanx everyone.

 

+1 although logic would dictate that since tsp y's fit the ss sutochrome and pacesetter LT's and the tsp true duals fit pacesetters that these headers SHOULD work with the true duals. I just want to avoid headaches in the future so does anyone know from experience?

 

We appreciate feedback good and bad. It lets us know if people are having any problems with our product and what item may need some attention. So far we have sold over 75 of these setups and only a couple of people have had some minor problems.

 

glad i wont have to worry about that with my dual electric cutouts right off the headers just gotta hope it fits....

 

I got mine and they are absolutely top quality. They look and feel every bit as good as the high dollar stainless headers. My father is an accomplished welder, and even he commented that the welds are done right all around. He couldn't believe the price I paid.

 

Who told you the TSP Y fits XS headers? I know from experiance that it does not. This is what we had to do to my TSP Y to get it to fit. http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...s/56f49455.jpg

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/637662-all-xs-stainless-steel-headers-questions-here.html post #31 from 98mysticz........and in his sig I found he has the answer to my original question because he now has TSP true duals.

 

Wow! And here's a guy who had to modify his Pacesetter Y (you said would fit) post#8:http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...highlight=ebay
Just tryin to help ya man cuz it don't fit. I wouldn't take anything anyone that appears on the manufactures site as gospel.

 

looks like these are the headers that will be going on my ls1 build!!! will buy in a couple months, or a few lol.