Which MAF sensor is sufficient enough for me?
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Which MAF sensor is sufficient enough for me?
Since my car is an auto I've heard NOT to take out the screen in the MAF as will **** it off and potentially cause problems. Well, I was also told it would be wise to upgrade to say, a Z06 MAF for better air flow. The aftermarket MAFs don't have the screen. Will that be okay for my car? I was taking a look at the ones offered on ws6store.com and don't know which one to go with. Will I need a tuning adjustment if I get a new MAF?
Also, would ported MAF ends also help? I'm the kinda guy who is trying to get every little bit of juice out of my car in upgrades, big or small, and realized I could get a decent gain with this upgrade.
Also, would ported MAF ends also help? I'm the kinda guy who is trying to get every little bit of juice out of my car in upgrades, big or small, and realized I could get a decent gain with this upgrade.
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If you're hell bent on changing the MAF, I like my SLP unit. But, it'd be a good idea to do it right before you get the car tuned. The new MAF will report different frequencies than the stock unit. That in turn means the PCM will report a different airflow number and could alter fueling in a bad way (i.e. you may run lean).
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Just get one from a Corvette....here's the part # 19137132...it's from a LS6 Vette.....other than that...MAF's are just plain ol MAF's. An OEM MAF sensor is capabale of supporting 500HP....so....you'll be fine.
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since i do have an LS6 (still running the LS1 MAF) would i benefit by upgrading to the Vette MAF? Seems like it would just be plain better to use than the LS1's? And will I have to worry about any descreening? And would THAT require any retuning? I'm not going to be going over 500hp anytime soon either.
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Stock maf with the screen flows well. The Vette maf with screen "might" be worth 5 to 10 hp if you're making big power. The Vette maf will require a retune as the maf table is different. Keep the screen in either maf you use for superior low speed accuracy.
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Originally Posted by daryl2cb@yahoo.com
careful with that slp unit, in the end if you upgrade things it will cause more tuning issues than it is worth
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Ok well for other reasons that I dont feel like going into, I want every single little gain I can get, I am OCD **** lol, getting my car tuned in like a week or two, is it worth buying a new after market MAF over P/P the stock one?
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I am like you in the sense of I want every lil bit of power I can get. I just order p/p ends and will install them as soon as I get them and will report back as soon as I do the install. Most people repeat what it is that they have heard. I want to know myself because all the people that have done it have had gains minimum and have not had tuning issues. I still dont understand the statement of its good up to 500HP? A ls6 for example can be good up to xxxHP but that doesnt stop people from upgrading to a FAST intake for more HP. More airflow equals more power last time I checked. Its just something you have to try on your own. A p/p MAF ends on my 98 automatic gave me 0 problems.
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Originally Posted by kaos_
Since my car is an auto I've heard NOT to take out the screen in the MAF as will **** it off and potentially cause problems. Well, I was also told it would be wise to upgrade to say, a Z06 MAF for better air flow. The aftermarket MAFs don't have the screen. Will that be okay for my car? I was taking a look at the ones offered on ws6store.com and don't know which one to go with. Will I need a tuning adjustment if I get a new MAF?
Also, would ported MAF ends also help? I'm the kinda guy who is trying to get every little bit of juice out of my car in upgrades, big or small, and realized I could get a decent gain with this upgrade.
Also, would ported MAF ends also help? I'm the kinda guy who is trying to get every little bit of juice out of my car in upgrades, big or small, and realized I could get a decent gain with this upgrade.
Later switched to Granatelli w/polished red ends.
Will sell it, PM me.
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Originally Posted by kaos_
since i do have an LS6 (still running the LS1 MAF) would i benefit by upgrading to the Vette MAF? Seems like it would just be plain better to use than the LS1's? And will I have to worry about any descreening? And would THAT require any retuning? I'm not going to be going over 500hp anytime soon either.
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Originally Posted by SlowazzVette2
I am like you in the sense of I want every lil bit of power I can get. I just order p/p ends and will install them as soon as I get them and will report back as soon as I do the install. Most people repeat what it is that they have heard. I want to know myself because all the people that have done it have had gains minimum and have not had tuning issues. I still dont understand the statement of its good up to 500HP? A ls6 for example can be good up to xxxHP but that doesnt stop people from upgrading to a FAST intake for more HP. More airflow equals more power last time I checked. Its just something you have to try on your own. A p/p MAF ends on my 98 automatic gave me 0 problems.
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Yeah ill have to say i have the zo6 intake on my car now and i just bought a stock maf sensor for my car with the screen to replace the zo6 one. The zo6 even though i had it tuned still was screwing everything up with the a/f. And i will say theres probably not much difference from switching to a ls6 intake to a fast 90mm intake but people buy the fast because then you can port it and thats where the difference comes into play then youll see the 20hp and 15tq to the rw increase stock for stock not much difference but ehn again dont forget switching them youll have to tune it to get every bit of power out of it..
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Originally Posted by Kage
SLP MAF's suck ballzzzzzzzzz.
Air passes over the MAF leads. The MAF generates a frequency. The PCM looks that frequency up in a table that corresponds to an airflow value of XXX.XX grams/second. If you change the metering device (by descreening, porting, or swapping for something new) or even the path of airflow (eg an aftermarket lid), you WILL need to re-map the table for the PCM's commanded AFR to equal the actual AFR produced. Plain and simple....
People don't see the numbers unless they have a tuning suite like EFI Live or HPT. That means they're talking out of their asses 90+% of the time. Yes, you can take a stock car, port and polish the MAF, throw on a catback and a lid and get HP gains. Some of that gain is not just the engine breathing better, it's also the AFR leaning out. The PCM is still commanding something rich like an 11.7:1 AFR at WOT. However, the mods throw off the accuracy of the fueling calculations and the car is actually running an AFR in the mid to high 12's. At least, that's been my experience.
A good example...my bolt-ons Z28 (with stock MAF, SSRA, lid, headers, !CATS, and Magnaflow) had a 6.5% error between the commanded and actual AFR at WOT. I had to increase the MAF table to adjust for the changes in the airflow characteristics so that when I told the car (through the PCM) to run a 12.8:1 AFR, it did.
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Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
I hate this mis-information. SLP MAF's don't suck *****. People who put a different MAF on their car and expect it to act identicle to the stock MAF suck *****.
Air passes over the MAF leads. The MAF generates a frequency. The PCM looks that frequency up in a table that corresponds to an airflow value of XXX.XX grams/second. If you change the metering device (by descreening, porting, or swapping for something new) or even the path of airflow (eg an aftermarket lid), you WILL need to re-map the table for the PCM's commanded AFR to equal the actual AFR produced. Plain and simple....
People don't see the numbers unless they have a tuning suite like EFI Live or HPT. That means they're talking out of their asses 90+% of the time. Yes, you can take a stock car, port and polish the MAF, throw on a catback and a lid and get HP gains. Some of that gain is not just the engine breathing better, it's also the AFR leaning out. The PCM is still commanding something rich like an 11.7:1 AFR at WOT. However, the mods throw off the accuracy of the fueling calculations and the car is actually running an AFR in the mid to high 12's. At least, that's what I've noticed....
Air passes over the MAF leads. The MAF generates a frequency. The PCM looks that frequency up in a table that corresponds to an airflow value of XXX.XX grams/second. If you change the metering device (by descreening, porting, or swapping for something new) or even the path of airflow (eg an aftermarket lid), you WILL need to re-map the table for the PCM's commanded AFR to equal the actual AFR produced. Plain and simple....
People don't see the numbers unless they have a tuning suite like EFI Live or HPT. That means they're talking out of their asses 90+% of the time. Yes, you can take a stock car, port and polish the MAF, throw on a catback and a lid and get HP gains. Some of that gain is not just the engine breathing better, it's also the AFR leaning out. The PCM is still commanding something rich like an 11.7:1 AFR at WOT. However, the mods throw off the accuracy of the fueling calculations and the car is actually running an AFR in the mid to high 12's. At least, that's what I've noticed....
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Originally Posted by Torque_Wrench
Did you actually feel a power increase after putting ported and polished MAF ends on your car? They actually show 0 gain on a dyno. And also.....in my opinion....to the best of my knowledge.....the LS6 intake makes just as much power as the FAST intake. I even own a FAST intake...and I can't feel a diffrence from when I had the LS6.