Repair ls6 intake? PIC INSIDE
01-18-2008, 08:40 PM
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Repair ls6 intake? PIC INSIDE I recently purchased this intake from another member it was damaged during shipping and we are working this out and im sure this can be repaired im just not sure how or what to use. Below is a pic you can see the chunk takin out of the back of the intake. Will this pose a problem? What can I use to fix it if i can even?
01-19-2008, 01:49 AM
#3
Since it's under vacuum and not going to see boost anytime soon, a simple fibreglass mesh would do it. You could probably go with one of those metallic meshes and just fibreglass it then if the inside get's a bit bumpy a bit of smoothing with sandpaper by hand but wouldn't be too much of an issue. It's not like it's a clean spot for airflow anyways as the MAP protrudes just above it, does it not? So even if you left the inside a bit "bumpy" it wouldn't be detrimental to performance.
01-19-2008, 06:22 AM
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I will be deleting my pcv hoses anyways and this is in the very rear of the intake, I have the peace that broke off there and beings its just airflow I dont think JB weld would have any reason to break off inside? What I was gonna do is put the piece back in the hole then just jb weld it back in really good and like Sladex said sand it down smooth again. However I will be shooting 150 shot through the intake but I dont really see this causing a problem?
01-19-2008, 08:43 AM
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I will be deleting my pcv hoses anyways and this is in the very rear of the intake, I have the peace that broke off there and beings its just airflow I dont think JB weld would have any reason to break off inside? What I was gonna do is put the piece back in the hole then just jb weld it back in really good and like Sladex said sand it down smooth again. However I will be shooting 150 shot through the intake but I dont really see this causing a problem?
01-19-2008, 08:47 AM
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If you upgrade to the ls6 pcv system you can delete all those ugly hoses. I also had another member send me pics on how he did this at not even a 1/4 of the cost and has no oil consumption in the intake.
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01-19-2008, 07:55 PM
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If you can find someone that has plastic welding equipment, that is another option.
Here's some info on plastic welding.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_welding
After reading a little more about welding Zytel, that may not be a viable option. The average do it yourselfer isn't going to be able to do it properly, and the cost of having it professionally done, would probably not be worth the expense. Obvoiusly, it can be done, as is evideced by the fact that one vendor sells LS6 intakes with 90mm TB snouts welded on in place of the stock diameter snout.
More than you will ever want to know about plastic welding here.
http://labinfo.cefetrs.edu.br/profes...PRINCIPLES.pdf
"b) Effect of Moisture on Zytel®
Nylon resins absorb somewhat more moisture from
the air after molding than most other plastics. When
released from joint surfaces during welding, moisture
causes poor weld quality. For best results, parts of
Zytel® should either be ultrasonically welded immediately
after molding or kept in a dry-as-molded condition
prior to welding. Exposure of 1 or 2 days to 50%
relative humidity at 23°C is sufficient to degrade weld
quality by 50% or more as shown in Figure 11.60.
Welding parts at longer than normal weld times may
offset this loss of weld quality, but often at the expense
of heavy weld flash and marring under the
welding horn. As was shown in Figure 11.42, the part
temperature near the horn approaches that at the joint
during welding, and therefore lengthening weld cycles
may cause severe problems.
Parts may be kept dry for periods up to several weeks
by sealing them in polyethylene bags immediately
after molding. For longer periods, greater protective
measures must be taken such as the use of jars, cans,
or heat sealable moisture barrier bags. Parts which
have absorbed moisture may be dried prior to welding
in a drying oven. Procedures for this are described in
Zytel® design and molding manuals."
Here's some info on plastic welding.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_welding
After reading a little more about welding Zytel, that may not be a viable option. The average do it yourselfer isn't going to be able to do it properly, and the cost of having it professionally done, would probably not be worth the expense. Obvoiusly, it can be done, as is evideced by the fact that one vendor sells LS6 intakes with 90mm TB snouts welded on in place of the stock diameter snout.
More than you will ever want to know about plastic welding here.
http://labinfo.cefetrs.edu.br/profes...PRINCIPLES.pdf
"b) Effect of Moisture on Zytel®
Nylon resins absorb somewhat more moisture from
the air after molding than most other plastics. When
released from joint surfaces during welding, moisture
causes poor weld quality. For best results, parts of
Zytel® should either be ultrasonically welded immediately
after molding or kept in a dry-as-molded condition
prior to welding. Exposure of 1 or 2 days to 50%
relative humidity at 23°C is sufficient to degrade weld
quality by 50% or more as shown in Figure 11.60.
Welding parts at longer than normal weld times may
offset this loss of weld quality, but often at the expense
of heavy weld flash and marring under the
welding horn. As was shown in Figure 11.42, the part
temperature near the horn approaches that at the joint
during welding, and therefore lengthening weld cycles
may cause severe problems.
Parts may be kept dry for periods up to several weeks
by sealing them in polyethylene bags immediately
after molding. For longer periods, greater protective
measures must be taken such as the use of jars, cans,
or heat sealable moisture barrier bags. Parts which
have absorbed moisture may be dried prior to welding
in a drying oven. Procedures for this are described in
Zytel® design and molding manuals."
Last edited by Greg_E; 01-20-2008 at 08:42 PM.
