After FAST/TB installed, loud screeching noise coming from intake
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When I do a cold start of my car, there will be a fairly loud screeching noise coming from my engine. If I put my head by my air filter, the sound is almost deafening so I know it's coming from within my engine. The sound goes away after about 30 seconds and doesn't come back until my next cold start.
Is this a side effect of having a FAST in take and after-market TB? Has anyone else experienced this?
Is this a side effect of having a FAST in take and after-market TB? Has anyone else experienced this?
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When I do a cold start of my car, there will be a fairly loud screeching noise coming from my engine. If I put my head by my air filter, the sound is almost deafening so I know it's coming from within my engine. The sound goes away after about 30 seconds and doesn't come back until my next cold start.
Is this a side effect of having a FAST in take and after-market TB? Has anyone else experienced this?
Is this a side effect of having a FAST in take and after-market TB? Has anyone else experienced this?
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I think you have a air leak somewhere, check all the nuts and bolts one more time. after your car warms up the intake will expand making for a tighter seal and that is when the noise stops
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From the other responses it can be the A.I.R. system OR what I like better is the intake bolts. I had to go over the whole set of bolts 5 times before hitting the proper tq spec. It would compress like crazy. MAYBE its not TQ to spec and once the engine heats up it creates the seal.
LASTLY, there is the Brake Booster, MAP sensor, and HVAC line that needs to be on there securely. on a 90mm there is no clip for the MAF, we used RTV and let it set overnight.
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Aside from reminding you that you cannot use the stock intake valley bolts, you need the allen headed capped bolts. It can/will crack the intake.
From the other responses it can be the A.I.R. system OR what I like better is the intake bolts. I had to go over the whole set of bolts 5 times before hitting the proper tq spec. It would compress like crazy. MAYBE its not TQ to spec and once the engine heats up it creates the seal.
LASTLY, there is the Brake Booster, MAP sensor, and HVAC line that needs to be on there securely. on a 90mm there is no clip for the MAF, we used RTV and let it set overnight.
From the other responses it can be the A.I.R. system OR what I like better is the intake bolts. I had to go over the whole set of bolts 5 times before hitting the proper tq spec. It would compress like crazy. MAYBE its not TQ to spec and once the engine heats up it creates the seal.
LASTLY, there is the Brake Booster, MAP sensor, and HVAC line that needs to be on there securely. on a 90mm there is no clip for the MAF, we used RTV and let it set overnight.
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Anyone know what I'm supposed to torque the intake bolts to? They were fairly easy to turn just now and I didn't want to tighten them and break something.
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Just looked it up and found this article that states:
"The intake manifold bolts must be torqued to 89 in-lbs. With that done, reinstall your air intake, start the car up, and check for fuel or vacuum leaks."
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Mine does the exact same thing. Once the motor warms up the noise is totally gone. I believe its the air rushing thru the machined IAC valve passages giving it a whistling sound. Mine is really load with the FTRA.
One of these days I'm going to pull off the TB to enlarge the port and smooth out the corners going into the IAC valve. I may also increase the hole size in the TB blade to match what I had done to the stock TB. With the cam I need a little more cold air bypass and I think that makes it sound worse.
Dee Jay
One of these days I'm going to pull off the TB to enlarge the port and smooth out the corners going into the IAC valve. I may also increase the hole size in the TB blade to match what I had done to the stock TB. With the cam I need a little more cold air bypass and I think that makes it sound worse.
Dee Jay
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The AIR passage leading to the IAC Valve is way smaller on my 90MM NW Throttle Body than the stock TB opening. On my Camaro if I pop the lid off and listen it is definitely coming from the TB area. I would double check that bracket for your GTO though.
I'm 95% sure the IAC passage is the source of the noise. Guess I'll have to whip out the ol dremel tool to test my theory. I'll let you know how it works out.
Dee Jay
I'm 95% sure the IAC passage is the source of the noise. Guess I'll have to whip out the ol dremel tool to test my theory. I'll let you know how it works out.
Dee Jay
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Got home early tonight and decided to work on my TB. I enlarged the hole and smoothed out the sharp corners where the IAC passages meet. I also drilled out the hole in the TB blade to 5/32 from 1/8. Cleaned everything up and bolted it back on. The noise is only about 30% of what it was before and it goes away much sooner.
The hole size I used was still smaller than what I used on the stock TB. Production tolerances may stack up causing a tighter fit between the TB blade and the bore of the TB which requires more air bypass thru the IAC passage on some cars. In my case causing a loud whistling sound at start up.
Worked for me, hope it helps you out.
Dee Jay
The hole size I used was still smaller than what I used on the stock TB. Production tolerances may stack up causing a tighter fit between the TB blade and the bore of the TB which requires more air bypass thru the IAC passage on some cars. In my case causing a loud whistling sound at start up.
Worked for me, hope it helps you out.
Dee Jay