383 Rotating Assembly Kits (Stock bore LS1)
#1
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
From: West Palm Beach, FL
383 Rotating Assembly Kits (Stock bore LS1)
Hey guys, i recently got my hands on a stock 2001 (20k mile) LS1 block, cleaned and honed, ready for assembly. I also have cnc ported 59cc 241's that im planning to put on this block.
Im at work, and did a little search - the results were inconclusive. Anyway, can someone or anyone point me in the right direction for a decent priced forged 383 balanced rotating assembly kit, from one of our fine sponsors? I found a Lunati kit for 3600+ messing around on google. Do rotating assemblies really cost that much? That seems a bit extreme, ive seen assembled shortblocks go for that or less. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Im at work, and did a little search - the results were inconclusive. Anyway, can someone or anyone point me in the right direction for a decent priced forged 383 balanced rotating assembly kit, from one of our fine sponsors? I found a Lunati kit for 3600+ messing around on google. Do rotating assemblies really cost that much? That seems a bit extreme, ive seen assembled shortblocks go for that or less. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
#3
#4
Speed inc has a rotating assembly for a 383 that is a Compstar/Mahle combo for 2400. The only thing about it,it doesnt say if the pistons are forged. I would asumme they are since the rest of it is.
#5
We have a Callies/Mahle rotating assembly for $2400. This includes Callies Compstar 4" stoke forged crank, Callies Compstar 6.125" H-Beam rods, Mahle Motorsport Inverted Dome pistons, rings, round wire locks, pins, and bearings fully balanced ready to go.
Let me know if you need help with compression ratio calculations and/or spec'ing out your combo.
Thanks,
Shane
Let me know if you need help with compression ratio calculations and/or spec'ing out your combo.
Thanks,
Shane
#6
Eagle fully balanced 383 rotating assembly...forged crank,H-beam rods,-2cc JE pistons and L19 rod bolts competitively priced through the two larges hot rod parts suppliers...both sponsor Pro Stock cars.
#7
We have a Callies/Mahle rotating assembly for $2400. This includes Callies Compstar 4" stoke forged crank, Callies Compstar 6.125" H-Beam rods, Mahle Motorsport Inverted Dome pistons, rings, round wire locks, pins, and bearings fully balanced ready to go.
Let me know if you need help with compression ratio calculations and/or spec'ing out your combo.
Thanks,
Shane
Let me know if you need help with compression ratio calculations and/or spec'ing out your combo.
Thanks,
Shane
Trending Topics
#8
Yes they are. You have your choice of Mahle or SRP. I prefer Mahle over SRP for LS series applications. If you are going FI or a big shot of nitrous, I can do a deal with Diamond pistons for a little more money.
Thanks,
Shane
Thanks,
Shane
#9
I went with a SCAT 4" crank, SCAT forged H-Beam rods, and Mahle 3.905" forged pistons. Ordered the crank and rods from my machinist (Eric Koenig at HKE) and the pistons from Scoggins Dickey. About $1,800 total.
I'd check with your engine builder. Most times they can get a better deal than you can individually.
I'd check with your engine builder. Most times they can get a better deal than you can individually.
#10
One thing to make sure of no matter what route you go, get a balanced assembly. If you are price shopping make sure you are comparing balanced to balanced or unbalanced to unbalanced. With some of the cheaper cranks, you will spend a boatload of money on mallory metal to balance them. the Callies stuff comes with enough metal to balance an 1850gm bobweight and if you order an assembly, it comes fine balanced. Some of the cheaper stuff won't have near enough mallory which is one of the many reasons they are cheaper.
Thanks,
Shane
Thanks,
Shane
#14
It will make MORE tq MUCH lower in the powerband so I think that alone makes it worth it. You will pick up a little hp as well but not like with a bigger bore. A friend on here is runnin a 383/5.3 PRC's/MS4/FAST 90/ bolt ons making 475 through a stalled A4 on a conservative nitrous tune. Full weight car running hi tens. It drives really good too and I see him on the streets around some. Built right your still safe spinning 7k too.
I am debating this same issue of going 402 and when I look at the extra cost of the shortbock it's not bad but when you throw in the sensors, hanesses, reluctor, some other miscellaneous stuff the budget really swells. I just wanna fun steetcar to run decent at the track so ***** to wall is not my goal. If that new FAST really works with the L92's though i might have to rethink and go bigger bore though cause I think shortly after that you will see some sick setups for relatively cheap HP to dollar ratio
Search WKMD on his l92 setup. He makes mid 500's hp and IICC makes more tq at 2500 than I make peak In a light *** vette that has to be a FUN ride His short block was a LS3 IIRC
#15
Thanks
#16
The part that you have to remember with going with a 383 is the prep work that's needed to be done on your block to clearance the rods. If you have access to having that done inexpensively, then it might be worth it. If not, I'd look into getting a balanced, assembled 383 shortblock that is ready to have all of your current accesories and cam/head bolted on.
#18
Shane
#19
The part that you have to remember with going with a 383 is the prep work that's needed to be done on your block to clearance the rods. If you have access to having that done inexpensively, then it might be worth it. If not, I'd look into getting a balanced, assembled 383 shortblock that is ready to have all of your current accesories and cam/head bolted on.