A Flooded Street vs. LS1
05-30-2009, 12:14 PM
#62
On The Tree
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glad to hear its running. flushing the oil means just that. use some cheap oil or a mixture to flush all the water out of your motor. you can do as 05 gsxr 1xxx said and pull the valve covers off and pour a whole bunch of oil through it. be sure you pull the drain plug so before you pour a couple gallons of oil through it. you can also change your oil, let it run a few minutes and reapeat a couple times. take it easy on your motor for a while, be sure and listen for any funny noises. check all your sensors if it starts actin funny. if your maf sensor is dirty and you dont know what your doing, it might be best to let someone a little more experienced clean it because you can easily screw up a maf sensor. hope everything works well for you
05-30-2009, 12:55 PM
#64
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I took the car for a spin and ever since i turned it on yesterday the RPM is idling at 2K's...wtf? And when I turned it on before the spin today *a while ago*, it was like that again...turned it off and back on and it went down to like 1.5 RPM's.
Took it out for the spin and went back to 2K's...No funny noises so far...the oil pressure gage didn't swing rapidly left to right like BIG MIKE said, it was steady when crusing...all it did was lower a bit itself as the more I drove the car, but it stayed still after the car was already at its normal temperature...when I turned the car it was a bit above 40 and when I heated it up and drove it more, it stayed still at below 40...Sounds little pressure cuz I only put 4.5 quarts of oil
my concern now is the 2k RPM idle...what could it be? I was thinking of the spark plug gap, but Im not sure. I gapped it to . 050 like I saw posts here in LS1tech from other threads...is that correct?
thanks in advance for your help
Took it out for the spin and went back to 2K's...No funny noises so far...the oil pressure gage didn't swing rapidly left to right like BIG MIKE said, it was steady when crusing...all it did was lower a bit itself as the more I drove the car, but it stayed still after the car was already at its normal temperature...when I turned the car it was a bit above 40 and when I heated it up and drove it more, it stayed still at below 40...Sounds little pressure cuz I only put 4.5 quarts of oil
my concern now is the 2k RPM idle...what could it be? I was thinking of the spark plug gap, but Im not sure. I gapped it to . 050 like I saw posts here in LS1tech from other threads...is that correct?
thanks in advance for your help
05-30-2009, 02:47 PM
#65
Your plug gap is fine. 1. If you have a LS1 your motor holds 6qts not 4.5 qts. Please add the additional oil just because. 2. Your plug gap is not causing your high idle. Maybe check the IAC (Idle air control valve). Water may have caused rust which may be causing the valve to stick. Check for vacuum leaks at all your vacuum lines. Make sure you throttle body and intake is sealed after reinstallation. Check back with us.
05-30-2009, 02:49 PM
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Your plug gap is fine. 1. If you have a LS1 your motor holds 6qts not 4.5 qts. Please add the additional oil just because. 2. Your plug gap is not causing your high idle. Maybe check the IAC (Idle air control valve). Water may have caused rust which may be causing the valve to stick. Check for vacuum leaks at all your vacuum lines. Make sure you throttle body and intake is sealed after reinstallation. Check back with us.
05-30-2009, 04:53 PM
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I think I have a leak right where the TB sits on the intake...on the side I can see a tiny bit of red gasket...I sprayed some intake cleaner and it seemed to suck it in there really quick....could that be the high idling??
05-30-2009, 04:54 PM
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05-31-2009, 01:07 AM
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WS7_Formula,
Once you've sorted your air leak. As a tip, grab yourself a can of WD40 and pull every electrical plug you can find around the engine. One at a time, carefully so you don't snap off any of the locking tabs (be gentle and firm) don't lose the rubber ring seals around each of the "male" plugs. Then spray a little WD40 into the female part of each connector and replace. This will ensure that if any moisture got into any of the connectors, the WD will get rid of it.
It won't do any harm just doing it the once. Every plug under there; maf, IAC and TP sensor (both on the TB), Coil connectors, even injector plugs and lift fuse box cover and give a spray all over from 6''.
Engine-wise after running it for a day any moisture/water still inside will tend to show as a bit of gunk under the filler cap the next morning (lift off and look inside).
If it does you might want to give it another flush and change for peace of mind.
Sorry can't help you with what the loose plug connector is for in your pic. I think this gizmo was removed on later cars. ...Anybody?
Once you've sorted your air leak. As a tip, grab yourself a can of WD40 and pull every electrical plug you can find around the engine. One at a time, carefully so you don't snap off any of the locking tabs (be gentle and firm) don't lose the rubber ring seals around each of the "male" plugs. Then spray a little WD40 into the female part of each connector and replace. This will ensure that if any moisture got into any of the connectors, the WD will get rid of it.
It won't do any harm just doing it the once. Every plug under there; maf, IAC and TP sensor (both on the TB), Coil connectors, even injector plugs and lift fuse box cover and give a spray all over from 6''.
Engine-wise after running it for a day any moisture/water still inside will tend to show as a bit of gunk under the filler cap the next morning (lift off and look inside).
If it does you might want to give it another flush and change for peace of mind.
Sorry can't help you with what the loose plug connector is for in your pic. I think this gizmo was removed on later cars. ...Anybody?
05-31-2009, 03:51 AM
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nice info, thanks alot sid...appreciate you put your part into it...I will check moisture in the morning and clean more on the engine bay...still trying to find out why the pressure is low after 5 quarts of oil were put in..............
05-31-2009, 04:12 AM
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when engine is at normal operating temps, you are okay.
Don't put too much trust in the dash gauge anyway.
As a suggestion, if there's a tuner living near you, inquire and see if you can get a proper scan and log of the car.